install on G35 twin turbo (need help)

[rcdash]

Dear Richard,

I have my hfs-6 installed but got stuck during testing. The manual does not really explain what all the jumper settings are so I wanted to ask about that first. When I received the system, the jumpers were on IDC, PRK, and I think also INJ or CAL? (don't have it in front of me). What should be the proper jumper settings for normal operation and for testing. When I move the jumper from PRK to TST, the pump turns on and I have a bleed valve on a spare port of the pump, so I can see the flow. However, nothing is coming out of the FCV. How do I troubleshoot this? On the controller board and gauge, all the lights appear to function correctly (as stated in the manual). I think maybe I have an incorrect jumper setting? However, the 95% IDC light comes on, so that should indicate that the the FCV is fully on, right?

Thanks,
Raj
Chapel Hill, NC

(PS. I purchased my unit from GT Motorsports in CA).

EDIT: This whole part of the manual is not clearly worded (it is very hard to figure out what the precise jumper status should be for each jumper - e.g. when the manual says "remove the link", it doesn't specify from where):

Testing the controller functions:
1. Gauge Bargraph test:
Taking the parked ?PRK? link
and place it on the ?CAL slot?,
you should see 4-5 bars lights
up. Twiddle the ?SC? trimmer on the gauge will
yield more or less bars. Clockwise to reduce bars.
Reinstate the ?SC? back to 12 o?clock. Make sure
?IDC? is selected.
2. Simulating 100% injection test:
Remove the link and put it on the ?TST? slot momentarily
and observe:
- Amber led on the controller board will light up.
- Red led on the controller board also lights up.
- The yellow should light up except for the blue RJ
connector,
- The water pump will start.
- There should be full spray on the jet instantly
unless the system is not fully primed. Allow a few
seconds for the water to reach the jet. For longer
hose run installations, remove the jet first to allow
faster priming.
- Remove the link and put it back to the ?PRK?
position before you empty the water tank. If all is
well, move to the next test stage.

[Richard L]

default jumper setting:

PWM = linked
MPS = unlinked
PRK = linked
CAL = un-ined
INJ = linked
TST = un-inked

1) To test and prime the system, undo the hose at the FCM inlet.
2) Ignition ON
3) Remove the link marked "INJ", put it to "TST"
4) The pump should start, let the water flow through the hoade until all air is expelled from the long hose at the FCM.
5) Removed the TST link and put it back to the "INJ"
6) Reconnect the hose to FCM IN
7) Remove the "PRK" jumper
8) Clip and small jet on the front screen
9) Remove the "PRK" jumper link
10) Put it in the "TST" posiiton to simulate 100% injection.
11) Atomised water should come out of the jet.

Testing system completed.

Let you know how you get on.

Richard

[rcdash]

Thank you for the reply. I will try that (steps 7 and 9 seem redundant, but I will ignore that and I believe the "PWM" is marked "IDC" on my unit - I will assume that is what you meant). I have 3 nozzles. 2 pre-turbo and 1 pre-throttle body. Does this mean I have to remove the nozzles to get the tubing to prime whenever air gets in the line? They are very hard to get to. I did prime using the spare output of the water pump and the pump is definitely putting out 125 psi or so (I have a gauge on the other spare port). I need to do the pressure adjustment you mentioned to get it up to 160 psi, but will first try to get through successful testing. Hopefully once I get the FCV pumping water, the rest will fall into place.

[Richard L]

The air leak is minimal. but you can always block off the the other end with tape.

IDC-PWM in this case, thakns for the correction. Let me know you preliminary test results.

Richard

[rcdash]

I have tried several hours, each weekend for the last month to get this working and I cannot. I give up. The FCM just isn't passing water. I can feel it vibrate. I unhooked the outgoing hose adapter so it's just open but the OUT port stays bone dry. I can crack open the IN port and water sprays everywhere under pressure so I know it's making it that far. The control module has all the lights lit up in test mode as expected. I tried unplugging all the RJ45 connectors, checked the crimps, which look great, plug it back it, fiddle with it back and forth. BUT NOTHING.

I bought this unit from GT motorsports in CA. Do I need to go back to them to get a new FCM? Can I go with Howerton Engineering (your USA main distributor?) It is a huge pain to remove the FCM because the wiring from it does not disconnect. That was a design mistake! Can I get a new FCM unit before returning the old one so I can go through the headache of taking apart the car only once?

[Richard L]

Please tell me th serial number of thr FCM. It is on a small silver label on top.

[rcdash]

Thanks for the quick reply and your assistance in getting another unit to try! PM sent.

EDIT: Thanks for all the one on one help over the weekend, including the video conferencing session - absolutely awesome support - greatly appreciated.