Mitsubishi EVO (USDM) wiring diagrams for HFS-3 (all US models)

[Richard L]

I will be working towards compiling wiring diagrams for as many makes of cars as possible for the HFS-3. I, of course need help from all your guys who owns the car to supply me as much information as possible, with feedback.

I would be grateful if you guys can post some installation images and share the experiences with others.

Richard

[Richard L]

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS3/EVO/USDM/H3v3-tephra-evoX-USDM.gif



http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS3/EVO/USDM/H3-EVOX-USDM-BCV.gif


http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS3/EVO/USDM/H3-EVOX-USDM-MAC.gif



xxxxxxxxx



http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS3/EVO/USDM/H3-EVO9-USDM-MS.gif

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS3/EVO/USDM/H3-EVO9-USDM-OE.gif



xxxxxxxxx




http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS3/EVO/USDM/H3-EVO8-USDM-MS.gif

[Jpierson77]

I have switched to a three port so I am only running the active solenoid maps, could you tell me is bcv2 active or passive?

[Richard L]

I presume you have a evoX.

This is the ares I am not sure but I will ask around. it is quite easy to get a MAC valve and disable both at the same time. Do you want me to post up an alternative drawing to achieve this?

[Jpierson77]

Yes evo x sorry, I had thought about adding a second valve to disable my three port but i need to go into the ecu for IDC wiring I might as well wire in the fail safe. I suppose I could use a continuity tester to find which is which. I'll post up if I figure it out. Thanks

[Richard L]

I have added an alternative boost by-pass failsafe utilising the MAC valve.

[Richard L]

If someone can help me with the wire colour on the highlignted pin on the evox, I will put them in drawings as on the 8 and 9.

[jamal]

Hey Richard, tephra has a map switch for the evo X now so there's another diagram you can make. See the second post here:

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-x-engine-management-tuning-forums/497325-tephraxmod-v1.html

for USDM cars, white goes to ground, black goes to pin 115 through a resistor.

On non-USDM cars without an evap/purge solenoid, the pink map switch wire goes directly to pin 112.

[Richard L]

I will make a tephra map switch drawing as soon as I can. I believe there is a minor error of the previous HFS-xx to evo X.

On the HFS-3v2, you do not need a resistor, it goes to the white wire directly and make a minor modification on the bottom side of the circuit board.

[Richard L]

Wiring details of the HFS3-v2/tephra alt-map integration on evoX is now updates on post #2.

This tephra modification is the most advanced failsafe modification todate on the EVOX. User can set timing and boost level upon activation of a failsafe. Please read this option on the link below:

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-x-engine-management-tuning-forums/497325-tephraxmod-v1.html

[Richard L]

2014 updated.... HFS3-v3 /Tephra patch

Richard

[Chriswolf81]

Hi Richard,

I'm confused: the diagram on this thread for Evo x tephra alt maps uses the black wire for failsafe ground with resistor, but the link you posted to Evom has the brown wire used for this. You sent me a diagram via email last year using the brown wire. My failsafe/map switching is not working. I used the diagram with the brown wire as the ground.

Please help very frustrated.

Thanks

[Richard L]

There was some confusion on our part and the older diagram was drawn. Use the black wire. Please circulate this in forums for us.

[Chriswolf81]

Thank you Richard. I will let Tephra know and ask him to make the changes. I will mention it on the thread too.

[Richard L]

I spoke to tephra a day or two ago and hence the new drawing.

[Chriswolf81]

I made the change to the black wire, but it is still not working. My ohm reading on the white failsafe wire changed from 2.8 to 1.5 when the car is off. As soon as I turn the key or start the car the display goes to 0.L with gauge on or off, no difference. When I change the multimeter to VDC it shows 4.7v with the gauge on and 1.7 with it off.

[Richard L]

Can you measure the ohm of the following:

white/brown ........ car off and car on
white/black.......... car off and car on

[Richard L]

Here is the truth table of the white, black and brown. Can you check some of those contents the table

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS4/forum pics/RELAY2.gif

[Chriswolf81]

Thanks Richard. I'm not understanding the instructions. I'm not very knowledgable with electronics. What does it mean when you say white/brown and white/black? Does that mean red multimeter cable to the white wire and the black multimeter cable to either the brown or black wire respectively?

How do I test the truth table? Sorry for being so slow in understanding this stuff. I'm not sure how to tell if I'm on on normal mode or failsafe, nothing ever changes.

Thanks

[tephra]

so basically. if you disconnect the brown/white and black wires from the chassis/ecu, and then test them you should find that:

with the gauge OFF =
OMH meter between white and black should show 0ohms or thereabouts (ie some continuity)
OMH meter between white and brown should show not-connected or thereabouts (ie no continuity)

with the gauge ON =
OMH meter between white and black should show not-connected or thereabouts (ie no continuity)
OMH meter between white and brown should show 0 ohms or thereabouts (ie some continuity)

if we can at least establish that baseline then we can move forwards.

^ all assuming you have DFS unlinked, FS0 linked?? and power to the HFS3 ...

Also FYI a reading of '0.L' implies NO continuity, it's not the same thing as 0 ohms...

[Chriswolf81]

thats what I get. My reading gives me .7-.8 when you said close to zero

[Richard L]

so basically. if you disconnect the brown/white and black wires from the chassis/ecu, and then test them you should find that:

with the gauge OFF =
OMH meter between white and black should show 0ohms or thereabouts (ie some continuity)
OMH meter between white and brown should show not-connected or thereabouts (ie no continuity)

with the gauge ON =
OMH meter between white and black should show not-connected or thereabouts (ie no continuity)
OMH meter between white and brown should show 0 ohms or thereabouts (ie some continuity)

if we can at least establish that baseline then we can move forwards.

^ all assuming you have DFS unlinked, FS0 linked?? and power to the HFS3 ...

Also FYI a reading of '0.L' implies NO continuity, it's not the same thing as 0 ohms...

Thanks for posting and help with the connections.

[tephra]

no problems!

so Chris - can you confirm that:

with the gauge OFF =
OMH meter between white and black shows around 1 ohm (ie some continuity)
OMH meter between white and brown shows 0.L (ie no continuity)

with the gauge ON =
OMH meter between white and black shows 0.L (ie no continuity)
OMH meter between white and brown shows around 1 ohm (ie some continuity)

if thats the case then:
1) reconnect the white output back to the ECU pin (ie where you had tapped into before - you had cut the existing wire obviously because your ECU was reporting that the fuel temp sensor had an error)
2) connect black wire to a 250ohm (ish) resistor, then then the resistor to ground.

quick explanation:
When the ECU sees the voltage go ABOVE the threshold (ie no continuity condition) it will start the timer to swap to alternate maps.
When the ECU sees the voltage go BELOW the threshold (ie some continuity) it will INSTANTLY swap to normal maps.

Lastly is DHB linked or not?

[Chriswolf81]

Yes I can confirm all the above. I see .7-.9 when i get continuity.

I will reconnect everything. I have the resistor soldered onto that ground wire already. This is exactly how it was wired after I changed it from the brown wire to the black wire.

I have DHB linked.

So if it still doesn't work, my ground wire/resistor has an issue? I want to say I used a 220 ohm resistor.

I will report back. Thank you for all your help

[tephra]

if it doesn't work, then log 0x80500A (2byte) and we will see what the ECU is seeing...

it may be that the ground you have isn't the best and so there is some extra resistance in play, so we might need to adjust the crossover value..

[Richard L]

Try to use a ~100ohm resistor. (connect the 270 & 220 in parallel). This will bring the ground voltage even lower when black is grounded.

[Chriswolf81]

Ok, so I checked and I used a 4.7k ohm 1/4w resistor. Will this work or do I need to get a different resistor?

[Richard L]

4.7k resistor is not going to work at all, you are going the wrong direction. Can you try it the way I suggested. You are just making thing more complicated.

[Chriswolf81]

Thanks Richard. A friend gave me the open pack of resistors and stated they were 250'ish ohm. Since there was no label on the pack anymore, I had to google the part number and found the mistake. I purchased a new pack of the 220ohm yesterday and installed it. Everything was working but opposite of what it was supposed to do. Tephra told me to switch back to brown as the ground wire instead of black. Now everything works as per design. Thank you both for your help and looks like the drawing was correct afterall and brown is correct.

[Richard L]

More work for me to re do the diagrams again.

[Richard L]

Tephra,

Someone posted this that confused me. is this correct?

*************

Hi Richard,


I don't quite understand "depending on how the program the Tephra"

I have read Tephra mod pg. its says,

5V ADC map switching

You can connect your meth/nos controller to the ECU (using pin 112) it must output 0v on FAILURE, and 5v on SYSTEM OK
When the ECU sees the voltage go ABOVE the threshold it will start the timer to swap to alternate maps.
When the ECU sees the voltage go BELOW the threshold it will INSTANTLY swap to normal maps.

So which do i use? Black or brown?

************

If the above is correct it should be black.