Yellow RJ45 Connector & 4 way power connector

[stevebez]

Yellow RJ45
Diagram in the Manual indicates the Red wire goes to the "ignition sw (injector +)" and in the description it says ignition switched 12v? Can you clarify please?

Should the red and green wires tap off the injector leads; or only the -ve (green) on the injector and the +ve on the acc switched +v 12v supply?

Power Connector
If the purple wire is not used should both the white and black be grounded anyway?

[Richard L]

The red wire of yellow connector should be connected to a 12V source when the injector (+) becomes active. On most car, the ignition switch + at the "pre-crank" position fits this criteria.

The safest and most reliable way of wiring the green and red wire of the yellow connector is at the fuel injector itself, if you are not sure. Never wire the red wire at the "Acc" position of the key switch.

What car do you car, I may have the ECU pin out diagram for it.

If the purple wire is not used just isolate it with some electrical tape. The black and white wire must only be terminated together at the ground junction.

[stevebez]

2006 E55 Mercedes AMG

[Richard L]

Hello Steve, I should have recognised your signature. A bit slow these days.

[stevebez]

Hi Richard..

Not having much luck as the unit does not power on at all... good 12v power at the molex plug (I still need to check if pin positions are right)... but at mom no lights anywhere and neither on the gauge.

I do not see any 12v signal from the injector feeds... and for that reason have not hooked up the yellow connector to the injector feed just yet. I assume the unit should power on never the less?

Also I am not using the water level sensor ... should these wires be terminated together or open in this case?

[Richard L]

I would temporary connect the red wire of the yellow harness to a known 12V source. The system should power up. In most cases, the +12V injector feed on on "the other wire" from the fuel injector.

Can you get hold of a ECU pinout drawing, that may help?

[stevebez]

Hi Richard thanks for prompt response...

I have some diagrams of the ecu pin out but its possibly more confusing than not having one!!! ... so tapping the injector leads directly.

I'll try the 12v alternate source temporarily just make sure the mechanical part of the install is sound.

If I apply a volt meter over a tapped injector lead at idle I get 0.002v is this due to a faulty tap / connection or is it because of the intermittant pulse thats causing the volt meter not to see any signal? Ill try measure again with key ignition at pre crank...

The injectors inputs are numbered 1 and 2 (labelled on the injector), and I assumed 1 being the +ve and 2 the negative, and the volt meter seemed to confirm this as when I switched the poles around I then measured a -ve volt reading.

If I understand the connection correctly then the red wire should be connected to the injector +ve lead and the green to the other wire....

Is there any issue in using an accessory power outlet (e.g. cigarete lighter type outlet) to run the HFS6 , if it is to be used intermitently and not permanently?

[Richard L]

You can connect it to any +12v for testing purpose only. Keep the jets away from the engine internals.

It is not advisable to allow the yellow harness to see a +12V source before the fulew injector(+) receive 12V from the battery or ful pump relay.

I would like to have a go looking at the fiagram if oyu can send them to me (richard@aquamist.co.uk)

BTW, you will noit see a 12V on the injector(+) until the ECU i spowered up and ignition key on the pre-crank position.

[stevebez]

It is not advisable to allow the yellow harness to see a +12V source before the fulew injector(+) receive 12V from the battery or ful pump relay.

OK... so the yellow harness should see 12v last in the que if not using the injector source.

You have mail !

[Richard L]

Got it, very nice images.

Just put a 12V to the red wire of the yellow harness and see if the system boots up.

Richard

[Richard L]

I looked into the diagrams.

Both wire of the fuel injectors is the same colour.

Really not that easy to identify. But one of the two wire is joined up with the other seven injector. The junction where all the eight wires are joined together, there is a thick "blue and red" wire meeting it, This bunch of wire are the fuel injector (+).

Let me know you are able to track them down.

[stevebez]

O la la ... Ill try but most of the wires (and terminations) are all bound into the harnesses...

BTW your advice on getting the system started worked perfectly and the system ran its startup test flawlessly...

Now just to find the injector lead.

Can I not just tap from the wire right at the injector?

[Richard L]

Yes, this is the best way.

Finding out which leg of the injector is positive...


Method 1 (no ignition key is necessaery),
Since the two injector wires are the same color, first unplug the socket from any two injectors. Test the pins inside the socket between the two sockets for continuity, the (+) leg is the one that pass the test. Mark them.


Method 2 (require putting the key switch to pre-crank position):
Unplug on einjector socket, one of those should have a +12V signal, the other doesn't

[stevebez]

Super Ill try that... thx

[stevebez]

Method 2 (require putting the key switch to pre-crank position):
Unplug on einjector socket, one of those should have a +12V signal, the other doesn't

Can I use any grounding point or would it be across the two pins on the plug

[Richard L]

Black probe on ground please.

Richard

[stevebez]

Ok 12v on injector found and connected , also connected green wire for Injector -ve.

On test startup all lights come on as expected except the red rj45 led. The yellow and blue Rj45 illuminate and the guage "boots" correctly. Also no other on board led's light up.

Trying to detect IDC signal also fails.....

On a pump test using TST jumper pump runs and pumps fine....

Any thots?

It's just on the startup test that the RED plug (fcm) does not illuminate, and the PC board led do not illuminate....

[stevebez]

So basically

1. Ignition key on the “OFF” or “0” position:
- Dash Gauge is plugged in and switched on.
- All the RJ45 plugged are colour matched.
- 4-way plug is engaged into the socket.
- No leds should be lit anywhere.

PASS

2. Ignition key on the “ACC” or “#1” position:
Absolutely no change, same as the above conditions.

PASS

3. Ignition key on the “pre-cranking” or “#2” position:
- Do not crank. Observe the gauge and controller leds
- Yellow led on the gauge will stay lit for 5-10s before
the rest of the gauge lights up.

PASS

- “S” and “W.INJ” led should be lit on the gauge.

PASS

- All the green leds on the HFS-6 controller should be
lit with the exception of the green connector.

FAIL. RED CONNECTOR, F-IDC, THRES NOT LIT

3. Start the engine and let it idle for a minute or so:
- The green led on the controller should flicker

FAIL. RED CONNECTOR, F-IDC, THRES NOT LIT AND NONE FLICKER

- The yellow led on the “green” and “yellow” RJ Connector
socket should flicker.

FAIL. LIGHTS ON , BUT NO FLICKER

- Flicker should speed up with engine speed.

FAIL. LIGHTS ON , BUT NO FLICKER

[Richard L]

Lets work on the rest.. in green text

1. Ignition key on the ?OFF? or ?0? position:
- Dash Gauge is plugged in and switched on.
- All the RJ45 plugged are colour matched.
- 4-way plug is engaged into the socket.
- No leds should be lit anywhere.

PASS

2. Ignition key on the ?ACC? or ?#1? position:
Absolutely no change, same as the above conditions.

PASS

3. Ignition key on the ?pre-cranking? or ?#2? position:
- Do not crank. Observe the gauge and controller leds
- Yellow led on the gauge will stay lit for 5-10s before
the rest of the gauge lights up.

PASS

- ?S? and ?W.INJ? led should be lit on the gauge.

PASS

- All the green leds on the HFS-6 controller should be
lit with the exception of the green connector.
FAIL. RED CONNECTOR, F-IDC, THRES NOT LIT
Richard: This statement is referring to the green leds on the RJ connectors. Not the red led on the controller board.
Update: The green led on the read harness on newer HFS-6 moitors the flow sensor's turbine movement.


3. Start the engine and let it idle for a minute or so:
- The green led on the controller should flicker
FAIL. RED CONNECTOR, F-IDC, THRES NOT LIT AND NONE FLICKER
Richard: Not until the green wire is detecting the fuel injector IDC properly, it will not flicker. Tell me how go went about connecting this wire to the fuel injector (-).

- The yellow led on the ?green? and ?yellow? RJ Connector
socket should flicker.
FAIL. LIGHTS ON , BUT NO FLICKER
Only the yellow led should flicker, green should be solid. This is further proof that the IDC is not read properly is th eyellow led doesnot lit up of flicker. Test the green wire of the yellow RJ connector by grounding it momentarily. You should see those two yellow leds light up.

- Flicker should speed up with engine speed.
FAIL. LIGHTS ON , BUT NO FLICKER
The green led on the yellow RJ conenctor socket should be a solid green.

[stevebez]

My replies in red...

- All the green leds on the HFS-6 controller should be
lit with the exception of the green connector.
FAIL. RED CONNECTOR, F-IDC, THRES NOT LIT
Richard: This statement is referring to the green leds on the RJ connectors. Not the red led on the controller board.
Update: The green led on the red harness on newer HFS-6 monitors the flow sensor's turbine movement.
Steve: OK so should the red socket led be lit green? If so, this fails. In the TST test both the red and green led light up on the red socket.

3. Start the engine and let it idle for a minute or so:
- The green led on the controller should flicker
FAIL. RED CONNECTOR, F-IDC, THRES NOT LIT AND NONE FLICKER
Richard: Not until the green wire is detecting the fuel injector IDC properly, it will not flicker. Tell me how go went about connecting this wire to the fuel injector (-).
Steve: Basically connected to the "other" injector connector (i.e. the one which fails the continuity test between injector leads).

- The yellow led on the ?green? and ?yellow? RJ Connector
socket should flicker.
FAIL. LIGHTS ON , BUT NO FLICKER
Only the yellow led should flicker, green should be solid. This is further proof that the IDC is not read properly if the yellow led does not lit up of flicker. Test the green wire of the yellow RJ connector by grounding it momentarily. You should see those two yellow leds light up.
Can you clarify which "those two yellow leds are"? on the board?
UPDATE: Sorry helps if u read the question - I understand which two leds - I will test this but they do light up in the test. Neither flicker though.

- Flicker should speed up with engine speed.
FAIL. LIGHTS ON , BUT NO FLICKER
The green led on the yellow RJ conenctor socket should be a solid green.

Can you clarfiy wether the yellow socket or the green socket led should be static and which should flicker?

From above
Only the yellow led should flicker, green should be solid.
The green led on the yellow RJ conenctor socket should be a solid green

In the test, both illuminate but neither flicker..

What about the led lights on the board which should light up on this test?.

[Richard L]

My replies in green...

- All the green leds on the HFS-6 controller should be
lit with the exception of the green connector.
FAIL. RED CONNECTOR, F-IDC, THRES NOT LIT
Richard: This statement is referring to the green leds on the RJ connectors. Not the red led on the controller board.
Update: The green led on the red harness on newer HFS-6 monitors the flow sensor's turbine movement.
Steve: OK so should the red socket led be lit green? If so, this fails. In the TST test both the red and green led light up on the red socket.
Richard: The green led of the red socket can either be lit or not-lit depends on the orientation of the turbine wheel inside the flow sensor at idle state. But if there is fluid flowing through this green led will flash in time with the rotation speed of the turbine wheel. The instruction may not have explained this. So we move on the other led.
Yellow led on the red connector: This led only lights up when the controller sends out a PWM pulse to the FCM. It should be lit on the "TST" tst. But do not leave the FCM on the "TST" state for more than 10 seconds at a time to avoid over-heating the FCM. Anyway it appeared to be working correctly.

3. Start the engine and let it idle for a minute or so:
- The green led on the controller should flicker
FAIL. RED CONNECTOR, F-IDC, THRES NOT LIT AND NONE FLICKER
Richard: Not until the green wire is detecting the fuel injector IDC properly, it will not flicker. Tell me how go went about connecting this wire to the fuel injector (-).
Steve: Basically connected to the "other" injector connector (i.e. the one which fails the continuity test between injector leads).
Richard: lets do it another way to find the correct injector(-) wire in real time. Connect the red wire of the yellow connect to a known +12V to allow the system to power up.
1. Engine running. Manual test the green wire by ground it momentarily (simulate 100% fuel injection). All the leds on the controller board will light up. the yellow led on the yellow socket shoudlalso light up.
2. If successful, connect the green wire to one of the fuel injector wire. Observe the green led on the controller board, it should flicker in time with engine speed if the correct injector wire is linked.

!!! Lets stop at this stage will only move on when the above is successful




- The yellow led on the “green” and “yellow” RJ Connector
socket should flicker.
FAIL. LIGHTS ON , BUT NO FLICKER
Only the yellow led should flicker, green should be solid. This is further proof that the IDC is not read properly if the yellow led does not lit up of flicker. Test the green wire of the yellow RJ connector by grounding it momentarily. You should see those two yellow leds light up.
Can you clarify which "those two yellow leds are"? on the board?
UPDATE: Sorry helps if u read the question - I understand which two leds - I will test this but they do light up in the test. Neither flicker though.

- Flicker should speed up with engine speed.
FAIL. LIGHTS ON , BUT NO FLICKER
The green led on the yellow RJ conenctor socket should be a solid green.

Can you clarfiy wether the yellow socket or the green socket led should be static and which should flicker?

From above
Only the yellow led should flicker, green should be solid.
The green led on the yellow RJ conenctor socket should be a solid green

In the test, both illuminate but neither flicker..

What about the led lights on the board which should light up on this test?.

[stevebez]

All running sweetly. Managed to find a good ecu pin out (3/27 - black / grey) if anyone else needs it for IDC. Don't have the MAP sensor feed but not serious for S/C linear boost...

So system running but now needs to be tuned!

Also I am trying alternate injector points... One ahead of IC and one after ... Will see which provides best results.. Btw only using water... But might switch to a decent washer fluid mix (if I can find one in the UK) since I am using the oem water reservoir...

Thx for the help !

[Richard L]

Thanks for the update, good to know the system is up and running. Who tunes your car?

You can always add some methanol onto your screen mix. Methanol is freely available at your local pharmacy or chemical supplier.

Any change of a few picture of the install? I will be posting the wiring diagram up on the wiring forum soon.

[Richard L]

I have almost done the diagram but I am unable to verify which pin of the ECU is connected to the "blue and red" wire (1.5mm2) wire gauge. The diagram you supplied has the left side cut off. I know is pin 9 but could be anyone of the 5 connectors.

[stevebez]

I cannot find it .... I had a good look but could not see this wire... Ill have another gander soon.

The install is pretty much all stealth... you basically cannot see anything except additional nylon hoses running along the washer lines.

The Pump is where the Intercooler water pump was since I have moved the intercooler pump to the trunk where I have a dedicated larger reservoir and larger pump. The pump fits very snug although the mounting bracket for the I/C pump requires some modification but nothing major.

I installed two 0.8mm jets, one on the exit of the S/C just ahead of the I/C , and the second after the I/C ahead of the IAT sensor , and kind of opposite the MAP sensor. Ill play with the two locations to see which gives me better overall cooling. Also, at the moment I have no flow restrictor inserted yet.... and might only add one if I run both jets in tandem.

I have the IDC set very low at this stage so the spray comes on only when I am really on the power, and I will slowly bring this down and see how it affects things.

The washer tank is pretty large (around 7l), so I have a good level of capacity relative to the tank size of 80l. The one issue is there is an engine coolant line which runs through the water reservoir to prevent icing up etc. I am not sure how well meth being added in here would work .. or how safe it would be. Perhaps in a 25:75 ratio it ought to be ok.

I still have not added the MAP sensor and not sure I should since the boost is so linear on the S/C.

So all in all install is done and now its just down to see what can be achieved on the tuning side. I have had a torrid time with my data logger, and need to take some lessons before I use it again as it infuriatingly decides to overwrite data files I need. So I have no idea what is happening to my IATs when the W/I is running and when it is not.

Any thoughts about adding meth to the washer bottle? And then washing your screens with it!!!

P.S. I have a question regarding when you run W/I for the first time I assume allot of the oilly gunk in the I/C core and the inlet pipes from the breather hoses are washed downstream through the motor. I assume this will do no damage, but would this potentially clog up the cats or would this oil burn off/away during the combustion? Reasn I ask is one a recent WOT run wth W/I off and having run the W/I before briefly, I picked up an exhaust leak and suspect I was building up too much backpressure..... anything else to consider?

[stevebez]

HI Richard,

Was tidying up my install lately and removed the 12v +ve red lead from the yellow connector to the +ve of one of the injectors. Recently I have been getting misfire on cyl 5&7 when the system is active - could the HFS be interfering with ignition / ecu?

I know there is an alternative location for the +ve red cable (yellow connector) to a red and blue wire - but I cannot locate it!!!

Can I connect the red (Yellow connector) wire to a manully switched 12v source? What does this +ve do that does not allow it to be switched to the 12v acc on switch?

Any help appreciated?

Regards

[Richard L]

You can relocate the red wire to a +12V whereit can only be active at the pre-crank position.

The red wire on the yellow connector ensure the system can only injection when there is presence of a 12V signal.

[stevebez]

You can relocate the red wire to a +12V whereit can only be active at the pre-crank position.

OK so this is acc on position (key pos 2)... assuming key at pos 1 does not activate acc circuits?

EDIT : Found location 5-9 on the ecu pin out that is red and blue, has 1.2 volt with car off and ignition at pos I and 12v at precrank - is this OK?

Also do you know from the ecu pin outs which is the MAP / boost sensor feed? Thinking of adding this in as additional dimension.

Rgds