PDA

View Full Version : "S" off / No bars


obsolete
12-08-2011, 10:55 PM
during "power up procedure" part 3 (pre-cranking), the yellow "water level" light comes on but the "S" and "W Inj" lights do not. If i wait until the water level light dims, when I crank (start) the engine, the "S" lights up for the duration of cranking. The guage bargraph test does nothing. I get no bars at any point. The 100% injection test and the test drive (with injector pointed at windshield) both worked out fine aside from the guage showing nothing more than a flickering water level light.

I've checked all the rj-45 connectors and all pins seem fine, everything is plugged in fully. The guage connector is mirrored as it should be.

What to check next?

Thanks in advance.

Richard L
12-08-2011, 11:36 PM
This may sound obvious, can you check if the gauge button is depressed. Don't laugh, it has happened before.

On the bottom left of the controller circuit board, is there a label showing the version number?

One more question, what is the serial number on the top of the FCM,

Richard


Richard

obsolete
12-08-2011, 11:41 PM
Yup (used this in conjunction with TST dip-switch for easy leak testing)

My HFS-6 is stickied with 04/10/v3 on bottom left of board

12-135-150 is the only serial # looking thing I could find on the FCM

Richard L
12-08-2011, 11:47 PM
The serial number of the top edge of the FCM.

Richard

Richard L
12-08-2011, 11:48 PM
Can you tell me what car model is yours.

obsolete
13-08-2011, 12:06 AM
Ah! Can't believe I missed that. 090507 is the S/N of the FCM

My car is an 08 WRX sedan.

Richard L
13-08-2011, 09:17 AM
Can you please check the following for me:

1. At pre-crank position without starting the engine. Does the "S" and back-lit led light up after the start-up timer lasped. (water level led goes out)
2. After cranking and engine running, does the back-lit led lights up?
3. Engine still idling, can you see the flicker on the green F-IDC led on the circuit board? 4. If so, does it flicker in time with engine speed?

May be it is easier for me to give you a call can do some real time testing during this week end? If this is possible, pm me your phone number.

obsolete
13-08-2011, 07:57 PM
1. At pre-crank position without starting the engine. Does the "S" and back-lit led light up after the start-up timer lasped. (water level led goes out) nope
2. After cranking and engine running, does the back-lit led lights up? nope
3. Engine still idling, can you see the flicker on the green F-IDC led on the circuit board? 4. If so, does it flicker in time with engine speed? yup

Odd thing I noticed just now: when I turn my headlamp on or off quickly, the "S" and the backlight light up for a split second. Testing the float sensor turns the water level light on and off as expected. I think I might have a wiring issue. I'll get back to you once I re-check all the wires.

obsolete
14-08-2011, 12:50 AM
Update: I won't be doing anything that requires the engine to run for the next couple days. My radiator got into an argument with a pebble and the pebble won. I guess that gives me time to re-check all the wiring.

Edit: all wiring checks out fine.

Richard L
14-08-2011, 08:09 AM
There is a purple wire (dimming) on the power connector, can you disconnect this wire and retest.

obsolete
14-08-2011, 06:28 PM
Well I'm not sure if that was part of the problem or just coincidence. That worked until I touched the guage. I've noticed that if I disconnect the rj connector from the back of the guage and hold it in very gently that it will work. None of the pins are bent or out of place. And the odd thing is, it works the same if I plug the guage in and gently hold/wiggle the connector on the controller box.

I am confuse. Oh well, I'll make up a new RJ connector with mirrored wiring. If you have any other suggestions, fire away. I won't be back to my car's current resting place until I have my rad repaired though :P

thanks!

Richard L
14-08-2011, 07:18 PM
I have heard of this before.

Gently bend the latching tab out a little until it stands about 35-45 degrees. The tab was probably under some stress when the cable was rolled into a conformal bundle.

Richard

obsolete
19-08-2011, 04:59 AM
So, I finally got back to my car to give it a try. As simple as it was, bending the tabs fixed it all. If only I would have wiggled the wires sooner.

"The simplest solution is usually the right one"

Thanks for all the help Richard!

Richard L
20-08-2011, 07:18 AM
Thanks for the update. Must find a good way to roll up the gauge cable up without affecting the latching tab.