Wiring issue

[ian spark]

I am trying to install this system in my car. It's an 06 Subaru sti but im having some issues. I have everything hooked up according to the wiring diagram but it doesn't seem to be getting a single from the injector. Do you have any idea what might be causing this?
Thanks
Ian Spark

[Richard L]

Does the green led blink on the controller?

Do you have a digital voltmeter?

[ian spark]

The green led does not blink. I can probably track down a volt meter.

[Richard L]

Once you have the voltmeter, please let me have the readings on the following test points of the controller:

TP5, 8, 23

Black probe on ground pin (bottom left)

[ian spark]

I checked the test

[ian spark]

Points you said and they were no5 13.76v no8 13.76v no23 13.7v

[Richard L]

Looks good so far.

The next step.

Please tell me what you see on pin 5 and pin 8 when you blip the throttle.

[ian spark]

When I blip the throttle the voltage drops about the same for both of them

[Richard L]

Pin 5 should be quite steady when blipping the throttle. Check the red wire of the grey harness is connected to a steady/fixed/switched 12V source.

[ian spark]

I had a look at it and it is connected to the most steady source I can find it moves around about .05v when I blip the throttle is that good enough

[Richard L]

Test point 8, the voltage should drop considerable more.

Where did you spice in the the green wire of the grey harness?

[ian spark]

K I think I have my problem figured out I was using the Wrx wiring diagram not the sti one so I will try hookoing it up that way tomorrow and see if that works better.

[Richard L]

please update.

[ian spark]

K I redid the wiring with the right wiring diagram the system seems to be working perfectly now. Thanks for all your help

[Richard L]

Great news, thanks for the update.

It did puzzled me for a while.

[bulldogface]

Hi there, I have similar problem, so I ran diagnostic on points you suggested, and while TP5 and 8 are getting ca12.3V with engine off/14.4 engine on, point 23 won't give more than 0.25V.. At this point I am sure some contact is wrong, just have no idea which, and cannot find pin description anywhere. Just to complete info, I am running first test described in the manual, w/out FAV, etc connected, and I am getting no reaction from system at all.

[Richard L]

can you measure the voltage on the 5A fuse. Both side.

[bulldogface]

0.26V, both sides.

[Richard L]

Check the red wire of the power connector (4-way molex type), there should be 12V there.

[bulldogface]

11.16V with engine off.

[Richard L]

with the engine on?

[bulldogface]

14.21V with engine on

[Richard L]

Was the molex plugged into the H3 during the measurement?

[bulldogface]

yes. red into switched 12v, white and black separately grounded, purple wire is not used.

[Richard L]

Lets go a bit further, check the soldering on each pin of the fuse holder. The one nearest the edge of the board is directed linked to the red molex cable. It should have a 12V there. Also check the soldering quality of the molex connector.

[bulldogface]

visually, all soldering is ok. on coonection pin solder point for red wire to control module voltage drops to ca 8.8V. on fuses, measured at solder points from bottom side of circuit board i've got 0.25V both sides.

[Richard L]

Unplug all harness except the molex.

Can you measure the voltage between the red wire and the 5A fuse, either side.

[Richard L]

One more question, what colour is the circuit board?

[bulldogface]

board is dark red, it is v3 control unit. running to car to measure.

[Richard L]

I would take the circuit board out of the car and do it in front of the computer with a meter. you don't need to plug it into the molex.

[Richard L]

Make a "resistance" measurement between 1&2, 2&3

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS3/PCB/12v.gif

[bulldogface]

is seems like there isn't any connection between, reading is zero, and connection test between red pin and either of fuse pins is negative.

[bulldogface]

just ran test of suggested points with two meters. between 1 and two, zero. between two and three, 6.6 ohms..

[Richard L]

with the circuit board off the car, we can examine the copper tract easier. Do make the above measurements and I will make another picture meanwhile.

[Richard L]

It is strange to see 6.6ohm between 2&3. Follow the copper track run, it should be continuous. Examine it closely.

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS3/PCB/L1+2.gif

[Richard L]

It appears the red track is broken. (2&3)

Blue track ...... circuit board bottom
Red track ........ circuit board top.

[Richard L]

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS3/PCB/L1+2a.gif

[bulldogface]

seems like there is tiniest of circuit bubles, plus some black residue around the first solder point of capacitor, going thru hole. tried to make a pics of it, but i am not sure they're going to help...https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByJ-d5eBjt3Xc2xmbkdqdHdzOUU/edit?usp=sharing

[bulldogface]

part between capacitor and fuse is nice and clean.

[Richard L]

Can't see the image. Post it to richard AT aquamist.co.uk

It looks like there was a spark created some time ago where the black is. Hence burn out the track.

If you can solder a bridging wire between 2&3, it should work normally after the repair.

[bulldogface]

well, i am sending you images right now. and am not sure, whenever soldering wire between 2 and 3 would fix it, since that problem seems to be on spot before nr. 2...more in a pic.

[Richard L]

Got it. I think the high resistance is caused by a oxidised track, likely to be a short circuit and heated up.

Easy solder between the two points.

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS3/PCB/aqua2.gif

[bulldogface]

...aaand sure enough it worked :) system is purged and primed now, thanks for help, Richard.

Rich

[Richard L]

That was quick?

Have fun!