Audi TT RS - Aquamist HFS-4 questions

[cipsony]

Hi,

I have an Audi TT RS stage II (Revo Stage II, Forge IC, turbo back completely decated, ITG intake) currently running about 430~450 bhp (at the flywheel).
I just purchased the Aquamist HFS-4 and I plan to install it these days, but I have a few questions:

1) What nozzles should I use?... as I could not find any info about the TT RS injectors flow rates? I was thinking of using 2 nozzles: 0.8mm + 0.9mm (or 0.8mm + 0.5mm)
2) Nozzles positions: the smaller one after the IC and the bigger one just before the Throttle body. Is this ok?
3) I will use 3 different maps:
- One with lower boost and timing for when WMI is deactivated
- One for using only water
- One for using water/meth 50/50

Can I use the safe function that "cut's" boost only when the WMI is activated and when the WMI is off to not cut the boost?
For example, on the first map (which runs without wmi) I don't need the system to cut the boost. On the last map (tuned for wmi) I need it to cut the boost in case that any problem will rise (of course if the wmi is turned on)
I can't use the system to change the maps (instead of cutting the boost) because I use a special device via OBD to change the maps.

Thank you

[Richard L]

Answers to you questions

1) If you are not sure of the fuel flow, use the following method to estimate the jet flow:
- 100% water .................1x crank HP (1x 1mm jet)
- M50/W50 .............. x1.5 crank HP (0.5mm + 1mm jet)
- 100% methanol ........ 2x crank HP (2x 1mm + no restrictor)

2) I suggest putting both jet at the exit of the IC to allow maximum charge air cooling and better cyclinder distribution.

3) Not a problem.

You can remove the "DHB" (Disable High Boost) jumper link so when the gauge is switched off (no injection). The system will not cut boost. Th there will be a yellow warning led on the gauge to tell you water injecyion is off but allow high boost.

Do you have a TTRS pinout diagram?

[cipsony]

I have the following diagram:
http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg580/Ciprian_Chete/SchemadelegaredelaAlexZZ.jpg

So just to be 100% sure: If I remove the DHB jumper the system will cut the boost when turned on (if any error will occur) and will not cut it when turned off? Thx

[Richard L]

Thanks for the diagrams, great help. I will start working on the drawings
[EDITY} . Not what I am looking for. I was after the OE drawings from AUDI, TTRS specific.

Yes, 100% correct.

[cipsony]

I'm not sure that what I attached (the connection diagram) is from the TT RS or from 2.0 Tfsi, fsi in general. Can you double-check? The wire colors my be different.

Thx,

[Richard L]

You have attached a drawing I did in general for the fsi engine. I was hoping you might have a factory version of the TTRS specific ECU pin out diagrtam so that I can make a proper HFS-xx for the TTRS.

[Richard L]

Audi TT (8N engines):

1.8 T 150 PS (2002 -2006) ................... 2002-2006
1.8 T 163 PS (2006) ............. BVP
1.8 T 180 PS (1998 - 2006) ......... AJQ, AUQ, ARY
1.8 T quattro 225 PS (1998-2005) ............ AMU, APX, BAM
1.8 T quattro sport 240 PS (2005 -2006) .............. BFV



Audi TTRS (8J engines):

1.8 TFSI 160 PS (2007 on ) ............... EA888
2.0 TFSI 200 PS (2006-2010) ............. AXX, BWA, BPY
2.0 TFSI 211 PS (2008 on) ............... AXX, BWA, BPY
2.0 TFSI Quattro (2008 on) ......... EA113: CDL
2.5 R5 TFSI 340 PS (2009 on) ............ inline 5 CEPA

[cipsony]

I finally managed to source the ECU diagram and electrical connections.
I sent this by email to you.

Thx

[Richard L]

Fantastic, I am looking forward to make the wire diagram.

[cipsony]

Any update on the diagram? Thx

[Richard L]

Sorry, have been watching the Olympics at weekend. I get on to it immediately.

[Richard L]

This is reasonably accurate.



http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS4/wiring/Audi-TT/Audi-TT.gif

[cipsony]

WMI finally installed and is working perfectly :)

I used water and ethanol (ethyl alcohol) --> 55% ethanol.
I placed the nozzles just before the throttle body as the intercooler hose is too thin (I ordered Forge intercooler hoses and waiting for them to arrive).

The gain in power (after increasing the boost and advancing timing) is about 10% and the car feels great but I think that more can be extracted so please help me with the following questions:
1) Currently I don't see any drop in temperatures (I see 25~30 grd above ambient temperatures on high pulls) compared to when the WMI is not used. Do you think that using methanol instead of ethanol will help cooling down the air charge?
2) If I move the nozzles on the intercooler exit plate as marked in the picture (or on the hose that connects to the intercooler exit) would it help with cooling down the air charge?
3) I noticed that with the gain knob in the middle I sometimes encounter some hesitations (the boost is reduced or at least it behaves like this). If I rotate the gain clockwise everything is ok and the car accelerates without hesitations. This behavior comes from reducing the flow or what would be the reason?
4) What is the role of the gain knob?
5) My car makes a maximum 1.5 bar at around 5000 rpm and then it drops constantly until 1 bar @ 7000 rpm. Should I alter the Boost/IDC knob or leave it in the middle position?
6) When wmi is turned on but I drive normally without accelerating the car the display behaves like in the movie: http://s1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg580/Ciprian_Chete/?action=view&current=WMI_problem.mp4 Is this ok?
I attached the final diagram received from you in case someone will need it: http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg580/Ciprian_Chete/Audi-TTRSaquamistdiagram_v02.gif

[Richard L]

Sorry for the late reply, busy time of the year for me.

Ethanol + Water injection:

1) Rate of evaporation reduction will depend on the boiling point of the injectant and inlet air temperature. Also the response time of the sensor. Thermocouple is the fastest and most accurate than the thermister based sensor used in car. Thermister is slow and often being heat soaking by conduction to the surrounding masses.

2) This is the most ideal location, please do it. Ample time to mix and evaporate.

3) The hesitation may be be link with the lean AFR. Reducing the boost will also reduce the water/ethanol injection. It is just a guess. Try moving the PI-R trimmer to the left to increase flow by boost.

4) the gain knob is for rescaling the input signals to attain full scale response of the system.

5) You need to make some experiment on this one. It all largely depend if you want to add more water/ethanol in the mid range.

6) It appears you have a longer than necessary distance between the FAV and nozzle. The initial ramp is most likely to be due to the action of expelling the air inside the hose.

[Bikerz]

Audi TT (8N engines):

1.8 T 150 PS (2002 -2006) ................... 2002-2006
1.8 T 163 PS (2006) ............. BVP
1.8 T 180 PS (1998 - 2006) ......... AJQ, AUQ, ARY
1.8 T quattro 225 PS (1998-2005) ............ AMU, APX, BAM
1.8 T quattro sport 240 PS (2005 -2006) .............. BFV



Audi TTRS (8J engines):

1.8 TFSI 160 PS (2007 on ) ............... EA888
2.0 TFSI 200 PS (2006-2010) ............. AXX, BWA, BPY
2.0 TFSI 211 PS (2008 on) ............... AXX, BWA, BPY
2.0 TFSI Quattro (2008 on) ......... EA113: CDL
2.5 R5 TFSI 340 PS (2009 on) ............ inline 5 CEPA

These are INCORRECT!
According to the TT and mk5 GTI forum.

[Richard L]

I took them off wikipedia, please correct.