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undergroundak
20-09-2013, 07:02 PM
Hello Aquamist,

I have a 2011 speed 3 in our shop and we have completed an HFS-4 install. We are using the d/i inputs for injector signal and the system manually tests okay.
The issues we are running into are that the system will not progressively ramp up pump operation linear with IDC. I cannot get it to start consistently and as soon as the system starts it quickly increases pump flow to 100% (according to flow guage, with guage adjusted to jet). I have to lower the threshold to about 10:00 to get the system to operate at all. I have cut the 1.0 jumper and soldered a link on 2.5 (per Jeff Howertons advice) and it changed the IDC reading but did not resolve the late start up quick ramp up issue.
I have tried adjusting the gain and the p/ir (set to IDC only) dials with no change. I have also reversed the d/i wires with the same results.
I did notice that your instructions for the 08 speed 3 used the standard injector reference rather than the d/i for IDC signal. Is that where I have gone wrong? I have yet to find a direct reference to an install on a 2011 or newer speed.

Thanks for any input,I'll post up results when we get this sorted and I'm done on the dyno. The speed made 412WHP on pump gas before the meth,so I'm excited to see where we end up.

Thanks,
Nick

Richard L
20-09-2013, 07:26 PM
Nick,

This is mazda?

The pump always come on at 100% once triggered. The flow quantity of flow is controlled by PWM'ing an inline valve called FAV. It works exactly like the OE fuel injection systems.

The speed 3 uses DI injection. I think the 2011 s3's ecu is different from the Gen1. Check the wiring,

Please post an image of the solder link. I like to see it.

undergroundak
20-09-2013, 10:12 PM
When I said 100% pump flow I meant 100% flow for the installed jet (windscreen testing) according to the gauge after manually testing and adjusting the sc setting on the gauge to read accurately, not 100% pump duty. Sorry if if sounded different.
Here is a pic of the board mod and a pic of my current settings. We have the correct injector wiring for the year (2011 Mazda speed 3) and even reversed the + and - to test for variances. Regardless of the way the DI +/- wires from the controller are hooked up the result is the same. The green light is blinking up and down with IPW the same as every other aquamist kit I have installed.
So far changing the DI +/- wiring and the jumper setting the unit has had no notable differences.
The issue stays the same, it turns on late (60% IDC acc to datalogs) and ramps up to 100% flow immediately (IDC Still around 65-70%). No linear increase. This is with the dial setting you see in the pic.
I'm stuck because I cant find any info on whether anyone has used the DI input of the standard IPW input on a 2011.
What issues could I cause by hooking up the standard - IPW signal like you show for the early mazda speeds?

Thanks,
Nick

Richard L
20-09-2013, 10:34 PM
I have just posted the 2010 on speed 3 wiringf digram below:
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2197

Please use this wiring and let me know if it works.

We can then compare notes after this.

Richard

undergroundak
21-09-2013, 12:30 AM
Okay, now I think we can get somewhere.
I need to mod the jumper at track A and wire into the fuel pump and map.
Why is the system monitoring fuel pressure?
This car is heavily modded and not running stock pumps.

THanks,
NIck

Richard L
21-09-2013, 12:45 AM
Since HFS4 is mirroring fuel flow, fuel rail pressure is an important input to bias the fuel duty cycle.

Not sure what you meant by mod jumper at track A?

What fuel pump does this car run?

Question: This car is not running the factory DI fuel injectors? If that is the case, do not use the "green harness" or "x2.5" or "fuel rail pressure".

If this car is using conventional 16ohm fuel injectors, use the red and green wire of "grey Harness".

undergroundak
21-09-2013, 02:18 AM
-The injectors are stock but the fuel pumps are upgraded. Its running a Walbro in tank and A CPE cam pump.

-"mod jumper at track A" is the MPS? on the board from A to link 2

I'll try to complete the wiring this weekend and let you know.

THanks again!

Nick

Richard L
21-09-2013, 11:33 AM
Ah yes, "A" link has to be cut.

Solder link "2" to large pad. "A" means absolute, the unit is looking for 0-5V signal. More suitable for MAF type of sensors.

Linking "2" enables the unit to read a 2.5 bar MAP. sensor. A pdf version of the user manual is available to be downloaded on the HFS4 forum here:
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2168

undergroundak
23-09-2013, 07:18 PM
I have a 3.5 bar bosch map. Can I just run the p/ir to IDC only?
I re-wired to the 2010 diagram (verified its exactly the same as 2011) and now the system will only activate erratically. The green light still blinks up and down with IDC.
Not sure if the erratic is due to the 3.5 bar map or if the board is failed due to not the issues thus far.
Looks like the customer was never shipped the above documentation for DI install. We were working with Howerton (whom he purchased the kit from) but were never given the proper info from the beginning. Could the board be damaged from wiring in without the map and fuel pump at the beginning?
Also I'm running a single 2.0 jet if that has any weight on the matter.
I'm running out of dry roads to test this on (snowed today) and cant afford to let it sit on the dyno while it gets sorted.

THanks,
Nick

Richard L
23-09-2013, 09:27 PM
If you have a 3.5bar MAP sensor, solder link 3 instead of 2.

The aquamist system is a universal system, it can read IDC signals on most platforms. The user manual has some generic information. Helpful to the installer. This system has been installed on a MZ3 for years. Non of our dealers are expected to supply a wiring diagram for every system sold to a specific car. I believe this is the responsibility of the shop that does the installation.

There are hundreds on models out there we do not have a wiring for. The purchaser should do some research into an appropriate shop to do the install. Good reason being the car owner will most probably have more resources than us.

Back to the topic in hand. The HFS4 should not behave erratically. The green will blink up and down with IDC this is normal. In order to confirm what the IDC reading is correct, link the FDC (fuel duty cycle) jumper. This hi-jacks the gauge to display IDC instead of water flow.

It is unlikely the board suffered damage from bad wiring but can happen. But it does appeared to be damaged from your description.

I cannot advise you what to do next as you are not prepared to test it on the road nor on the dyno.

undergroundak
25-09-2013, 11:02 PM
The snow cleared up and we are supposed to be dry for a week.
I've linked up the FCD test and only 4 bars light up with no change. The green led is still blinking faster and slower with IDC so it appears it is still getting a signal. Are there any other tests I can perform to isolate the potential issue?

Also, I realize the kits are universal and its the installers responsibility to get the proper info. I'm not trying to point fingers but when we contacted the dealer that the customer purchased the system from, we were advised the only difference was to connect the +/- to DI input and leave the standard inj - not connected.
Regardless, thank you for giving me the correct info.
We still need to sort out this issue.
Please let me know what a "next step" would be.

Thanks,
Nick

Richard L
25-09-2013, 11:27 PM
Does the 4-bar display ramps up and down during a drive with varied throttle? Is 4-bar the maxmium you ever see at WOT at peak RPM?

The 4-bar display is an arbitrary figure from the DI input channel. I assume you have solder linked the x2.5 option underneath the circuit board or page 21.1 of the user manual.

To bump up this signal, you just need to use the "gain" trimmer. Be careful not to trigger the >95% IDC led or you will cut off the peak flow progression.

undergroundak
26-09-2013, 07:14 PM
The 4 bars are constant, even with the engine off.? x2.5 link is soldered.

To refresh where I began. I initially had only the 2.5 link soldered and the DI wired in. No map or fuel pump signals wired in. At that point the bar test would increase/decrease with IDC. The only issues then were that I could not get the system to ramp up progressively, it would come on late and ramp to 100% almost immediately.
Now after completing the wiring and jumper modifications per the instructions its stuck at 4 bars and erratically operating.
But I still get the green led to blink as if it were increasing/decreasing with IDC.

I'm stumped.

Thanks,
Nick

Richard L
26-09-2013, 08:05 PM
This is not good.

You need to send the board back to me. Can you send me a close up of picture of the x2.5 solder link. In focus please. richard-at-aquamist.co.uk.

Richard

Richard L
02-01-2014, 09:33 PM
I have received the controller back today. via Jeff Howerton.

Put it through the test bench, no fault found, work perfectly What do you want me to do next?