failsafe setting

[lailarry]

My car is Audi 2001 RS4 2.7 TT , so far around 730bph and EV14 980cc fuel injectors x 6 used. I finished my HFS4 DIY and two 0.9 jets. But I confused about WH and WL failsafe setting. I follow the instrustion step by step to setting.

1.Start with the WL trimmer on the gauge set full left (CCW) and the WH full right (CW). Put the system in test to spray 100%, (in open air) for no more than 1 minute at a time. -- pass

2.Turn the SC trimmer on the gauge until 6 of the 8 bars are lit up. -- pass

3.Turn the WH to the left (ccw) slowly until the ?B? light at the end of the gauge flashes or goes off. Stop, and turn it back clockwise 1-2 clicks. Take the system out of test. The high failsafe is now set. -- my WH stay at 11 o'clock, it look too aggressive. Is it normal or not ? thanks

[Richard L]

WH at 11 o/c is a bit aggressive. Drive the car for a few days. If the failsafe kicks in at full throttle, advance HW a few clicks CW.

When WH is at full CCW, it trip at ~4 bars.

You can use the BAR link during the SYS test and see where the "B" setting is. You should unplug the red and blue harness to stop any water getting into the engine.

Let me know. You have done well with the setting up.

[lailarry]

Thanks. Let me clear.
1. When WH is at full CCW, it trip at ~4 bars. That said Turn the SC trimmer on the gauge until 6 of the 8 bars are lit up.. Should be 4 of 8 bars, not 6 of the 8 bars.
2. Use the BAR link during the SYS test and see where the "B" setting is. You should unplug the red and blue harness to stop any water getting into the engine. The result B is 4 bars.

[Richard L]

The BAR mode + SC trimmer helps you to determine where the WL and WH is. When finished , unlink BAR mode. You can do this with the red and blue harness unplugged

[lailarry]

I finished my failsafe setting. First I do FDC jump to check my injector Duty cycle, but nothing showed on gauge. I reviwed my fuel injectors are bosch EV14 980 cc that is big one, so I cut link pre-amp x1 and solder to x1.5. Very good the FDC showed on my gauge, then very quick to finish SC and WH and WL. Now SC is 2 o'clock, WL is 11 o'clock, WH is 2 o'clock. Also I set the THRES around duty cycle 36% ( 11 o'clock ) and P/I R kept 50/50% ( 12 o'clock ), because when boost value is 0.7 bar my fuel injector duty cycle is 36%. Other trimmer is kept no change.

[Richard L]

You are very able . Most impressed.
The SC, WL and WH setting looks a lot better.

How many bars was the gauge displaying whenFDC is linked?

[lailarry]

How many bars was the gauge displaying whenFDC is linked?
When the boost value is 0.6-0.7 bar, the FDC is 2 bar , just between 25% and 50 %

[Richard L]

It is still quite low. if you have 6x 980cc injectors, the total is fuel good for well over 1000bhp. Based on you fuel dc, you should be in the region of 500-600 bhp.

Two choices:
1. you can up the gain trimmer.
2. You can solder link x2.5.

[lailarry]

It is still quite low. if you have 6x 980cc injectors, the total is fuel good for well over 1000bhp. Based on you fuel dc, you should be in the region of 500-600 bhp.

Two choices:
1. you can up the gain trimmer.
2. You can solder link x2.5.

That is right. My car is around 750 bhp. And peak boost value is 1.85 bar ( 28.5 psi). The 2 bar FDC is just 0.6 bars initial spoon up. But I do not test full WOT to determine FDC. Your advise 1. gain trimmer 2. solder link x 2.5 . I choice one my favor or do both ??

[lailarry]

Also my car is conventional fuel injection systems , no DI fueling systems. Is it good to soler x2.5 pre- gain.
(a) x1.0 (default): This one is for conventional fuel injection systems and some DI systems.
(b) x1.5: For systems with over-sized fuel injectors designed for E85 fuel that run on 100% gasoline.
(c) x2.5: For 95% of the current DI fueling systems.

[Richard L]

It make no different to the system. It is only a signal.

From x1.5 to x2.5 it is only a 1.66x. You should be able to see up to 83%+ . You can check it with the FDC. It is good to have a signal comparable to the MAP sensor signal so that the pointer position IP/R trimmer is more central. Make it easier to see.

Need t0 un-solder x1.5 first before linking x2.5.

Let me know what you see with FDC linked.

[lailarry]

It make no different to the system. It is only a signal.

From x1.5 to x2.5 it is only a 1.66x. You should be able to see up to 83%+ . You can check it with the FDC. It is good to have a signal comparable to the MAP sensor signal so that the pointer position IP/R trimmer is more central. Make it easier to see.

Need t0 un-solder x1.5 first before linking x2.5.

Let me know what you see with FDC linked.

Thanks. I will unsolder x1.5 then linking x2.5. How about the IDC gain? keep it 12 o'clock no change. Also the THRES ? now I setting at 11 o'clock ( one segment ), return to default 12 o'clock ??

[Richard L]

The gain trimmer is for IDC + MPS after setting the PI-R trimmer.

Threshold is normally set to 36-42% (11-12 O/C). You can set it lower in summer.

[lailarry]

Befor I unsolder x1.5 to linking x2.5 pre-amp gain. I check again FDC x 1.5. My gauge displayed upto 7 bars around 85%. So I still kept the pre-amp gain x1.5. Also I log my real fuel injectors duty cycle to compare with aquamist FDC. I found when real fuel duty cycle is 30 % the FDC is 36%. Real fuel duty cycle is 40% the gauge FDC is 50%. When real fuel duty cycle is 50 % the gauge FDC is 65% and real fuel duty cycle is 60% is gauge FDC is 85%. So may be I need to trimmer decrease IDC trimmer ? But I do not know which direction ( CW or CCW ) is decrease ? any advise thanks

[Richard L]

I am glad you have checked it again. Your previous email mentioned around 50%. I would leave it at x1.5.

The x1.5 gain and the gauge is arbitrary. x1.0 is most the accurate. Pin16 (test pins) will show you a more accurate assessment of the IDC% compared to FDC.

Can you tell me which one of the three of the trimmers is referred as IDC trimmer. Thres, PI-R or Gain?

[lailarry]

I am glad you have checked it again. Your previous email mentioned around 50%. I would leave it at x1.5.

The x1.5 gain and the gauge is arbitrary. x1.0 is most the accurate. Pin16 (test pins) will show you a more accurate assessment of the IDC% compared to FDC.

Can you tell me which one of the three of the trimmers is referred as IDC trimmer. Thres, PI-R or Gain?

Please see the picture . 1. THRES : I set 11 o'clock ( 1 segement CCW). 2.P/I-R : default ( 50/50%) 3. Gain ( I hope to decrease ) 4.FS-DL : default 5. DIM : 9 o'clock more dark at headlight switch on. 6. Auxf-s: no use.

Where I can find pin16 ?

[Richard L]

This looks quite normal. All other trimmers are at default except for the dim.

Pin 16 is on the first left of the bottom row of the 30 test points (above the jumper links). Use the GND pad as your 0V reference. It is marked "16"

[Richard L]

Do you have a 0-5V WBO2 or EGT sensor signal?

[lailarry]

I need to check my car EGT is 0-5v but my O2 sensor is narrow band not wide band. Still the same question.. how about my gain, if I will decrese it , I need to CCW ...

[lailarry]

I found pin 16. But how to get the voltage during driving ?

[Richard L]

I need to check my car EGT is 0-5v but my O2 sensor is narrow band not wide band. Still the same question.. how about my gain, if I will decrese it , I need to CCW ...

Decrease it = CCW.

[Richard L]

I found pin 16. But how to get the voltage during driving ?

1. Do you have a extra 0-5v channel for logging?

2. How did you check the DC% before?

[lailarry]

I used VAG-COM to log and video camera to record DC %.

[Richard L]

Please post so results here, it is interesting to see.

[lailarry]

yes. I will post here. But Why I need another one 0-5V channel ? Because I had one failsafe channel cutting boost from my N75.

[Richard L]

The extra failsafe channel is input. When triggered, It performs the same "boost cut" action to the N75.

Some people are more concern on what the engine is doing as well as monitoring aquamist's water/methanol flow. So we introduce this additional option on the HFS4. You don't need to use it if you don't want to.

[lailarry]

May I know on Aquamist HFS4 pre-amp gain ( solder link x1.0 x1.5 x2.5 ) and Aquamist HFS6 "IDC trim" trimmer is the same function ?

[Richard L]

I see, the HFS6 does have an IDC trimmer but not the HFS-4. It uses pre-amplification instead.

We feel having the fixed PA gain is easier to set up. We have found user end up wearing out the IDC trimmer before an ideal PA gain is determined.

On the HFS4, you can use the PI-R as the H6's IDC trimmer, provided you do not use the MPS input. If you want to reduce flow, just turn the PI-R trimmer CCW.

You seemed to know the aquamist system very well.

[lailarry]

I just contact Aquamist for 4 weeks. But read a lot of discussion from web. Try to do it by myself. Thanks

[Richard L]

You know where to find me if you need support.

[lailarry]

Last two days, I try to confirm failsafe and all of setting. When I smooth driving everthing is fine, but when I push hard and kept boost to redline, I found failsafe actived sometimes. Finial I found my jet 0.9 is less demand, so I replaced 1 .

[Richard L]

WH a click or two C/W for WOT. Or FSDL C/W a bit.

Don't forget to recal S/C trimmer with 1mm jet.

[subie411]

I have a similar problem.

I have a built STi race car. I am running 2000cc injectors so I have dual 1.0 jets on the FMIC.

When I get on the throttle I get two led's ... then the injector led goes off and I get full flow.. 4 seconds later the WL goes off. Obviously I am briefly tripping the fail safe and then it goes off.

I have properly setup the fail safe on the gauge just as instructed. SC at 6 bars, the WH while in test and WL while on the dyno.

I cant seem to get the initial trip to stop. I have tried also delaying the failsafe with FSDL in the control unit/ gain.

What else can I try?

[Richard L]

I had a long chat with Jeff just now, he has been working with you for a while.

A brief history, the system has installed a few months ago by a shop. They did not go through the initial testing procedure nor setting up the failsafe. It would be easier to diagnose and problem addressed at the time as all the components were brand new.


My first thought will be the following:
1. Clean the flow sensor is free of debris
2. Check for air bubble in line leading to the FAV
3. Check for the condition of the in-tank filter.

[subie411]

I had a long chat with Jeff just now, he has been working with you for a while.

A brief history, the system has installed a few months ago by a shop. They did not go through the initial testing procedure nor setting up the failsafe. It would be easier to diagnose and problem addressed at the time as all the components were brand new.


My first thought will be the following:
1. Clean the flow sensor is free of debris
2. Check for air bubble in line leading to the FAV
3. Check for the condition of the in-tank filter.

Yep Jeff is a great help.

More background.

The parts were nearly brand new. After the install the car sat in storage for the entire winter. Car only has 1300 miles on it and about 60 miles for the ride home with the kit on it.

I did take apart the sensor and cleaned it. It takes alot of effort to move the "wheel". I could not see fouling however, the wheel doesn't want to spin freely. After cleaning I reinstalled and got the same issue. For now.. I have sent the sensor back to Jeff as I think this is the issue. Maybe not but we will see.

I haven't checked the tank filter but I will next.

Thanks for your help. I appreciate you talking to Jeff about this issue. I am sure it will be resolved shortly.