tippmannman7
02-05-2014, 11:28 PM
I have been researching for days and am just looking for some clarification as I finish dialing in my install. (HFS-3 v3+V12 gauge)
Please correct me if I am wrong.
I have read now the HFS-3 fail-safe instructions, found some information from 2010 from Richard below and read the fail-safe instruction from Howerton Engineering tech info page on setting the fail-safe (says for Aquamist DDS3 but sounds like it applies).
What I have taken away so far is the following:
- Calculate jet size -for me 550 pinks x 4 x 15% =330cc/min @140 pump psi (160-20 boost)=0.8mm jet
set SC and high fail-safe (WH)
-WL to full left (CCW) WH to full right (CW)
-Remove jet and vent to open air to prevent hydrolock
-set sys jumper on controller to manual test SC
-trim SC until 6 of 8 bars show on the gauge (spray on for no more than a min at a time with car on to give proper voltage and used button for on/off)
- turn WH to left (CCW) slowly until the "B" light flickers of goes off turn back right (CW) 1-2 clicks
*the SC and WH are close but should be confirmed on the road according to Richard below*
set low fail-safe (calibrated on road, using a friend makes this a lot easier)
- reinsert jet
- while pressing lightly (only 0 to 4 bars should show) in a 3rd gear or higher (NOT WOT) until injection comes on, "B" light should be steady, keep on the same amount of throttle and turn 1-2 clicks right (CW) until the fail-safe trips
- if the fail-safe is tripped, two yellow leds lights v11+ (just water level for older) should light and the ?B? should flicker and not stay on. This means the fail-safe has been tripped
- once tripped try to repeat several times to confirm consistency of the fail-safe setting, if repeatable turn 1-2 clicks left (CCW), if the fail-safe doesn?t consistently trip and the ?B? stays steady repeat the steps above
- the low fail-safe has now been set
The end goal is to be able to have a steady ?B? throughout acceleration and WOT.
Now a couple of additional questions
Should I be using the disable fail-safe jumper while doing this? Doesn?t it light ?B? constantly so wouldn?t that be counter productive? See quote below.
1. The 5-6 bars should realistic be set on the road, but it will be close if your car uses the full duty cycle of fuel injector.
2. The "B" led indicates the flow is inside the fail-safe window after system activation. If you set the WL and WH correctly. The "B" led should stay on during water spray.
3. I suggest disconnecting the boost until the fail-safe window is set correctly. You will never get the same reading with the boost cut in circuit.
Your aim is to have a sustainable "B" led during your WOT runs.
Thank you for reading.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
I have read now the HFS-3 fail-safe instructions, found some information from 2010 from Richard below and read the fail-safe instruction from Howerton Engineering tech info page on setting the fail-safe (says for Aquamist DDS3 but sounds like it applies).
What I have taken away so far is the following:
- Calculate jet size -for me 550 pinks x 4 x 15% =330cc/min @140 pump psi (160-20 boost)=0.8mm jet
set SC and high fail-safe (WH)
-WL to full left (CCW) WH to full right (CW)
-Remove jet and vent to open air to prevent hydrolock
-set sys jumper on controller to manual test SC
-trim SC until 6 of 8 bars show on the gauge (spray on for no more than a min at a time with car on to give proper voltage and used button for on/off)
- turn WH to left (CCW) slowly until the "B" light flickers of goes off turn back right (CW) 1-2 clicks
*the SC and WH are close but should be confirmed on the road according to Richard below*
set low fail-safe (calibrated on road, using a friend makes this a lot easier)
- reinsert jet
- while pressing lightly (only 0 to 4 bars should show) in a 3rd gear or higher (NOT WOT) until injection comes on, "B" light should be steady, keep on the same amount of throttle and turn 1-2 clicks right (CW) until the fail-safe trips
- if the fail-safe is tripped, two yellow leds lights v11+ (just water level for older) should light and the ?B? should flicker and not stay on. This means the fail-safe has been tripped
- once tripped try to repeat several times to confirm consistency of the fail-safe setting, if repeatable turn 1-2 clicks left (CCW), if the fail-safe doesn?t consistently trip and the ?B? stays steady repeat the steps above
- the low fail-safe has now been set
The end goal is to be able to have a steady ?B? throughout acceleration and WOT.
Now a couple of additional questions
Should I be using the disable fail-safe jumper while doing this? Doesn?t it light ?B? constantly so wouldn?t that be counter productive? See quote below.
1. The 5-6 bars should realistic be set on the road, but it will be close if your car uses the full duty cycle of fuel injector.
2. The "B" led indicates the flow is inside the fail-safe window after system activation. If you set the WL and WH correctly. The "B" led should stay on during water spray.
3. I suggest disconnecting the boost until the fail-safe window is set correctly. You will never get the same reading with the boost cut in circuit.
Your aim is to have a sustainable "B" led during your WOT runs.
Thank you for reading.