hfs6 problems

[vsgts14]

hey guys, i'm having issues with my hfs6 spraying in my 05 sti.
the car was down for 8 months or so, none of the system was touched.

i can not get it to spray under the test conditons. everything is jumped correctly i believe.

the pump doesn't seem to be coming on at all.
the fcm is making a buzz/click noise.
the orange led for the engine bay rj connector lights up.

so what's wrong? the car is going to get retuned this coming tuesday and i was hoping to solve the problem.

i also replaced the 40amp relay, but i don't believe that to be the problem, as it has the same symptoms using both.

[Richard L]

Where is the pump located?

[vsgts14]

the pump is mounted in the trunk. the system has been running for three years no problem. then after sitting for a while, it became dormant.
the fcm is in the engine bay on the lower strut tower.

i checked voltage coming into the relay, the two small wires were reading a good 12-13v. the thick wires weren't reading anything. the fuse is not popped. the voltage going to the pump is 0.

this was all tested when the jumpers were all set for test mode.

i feel like the fcm is the problem.

[Richard L]

If the thick red wire has no voltage, you need to look into this further.

Why do you think the FCM has something to do with the thick red wire. It is completely separate from the pump circuit.

[vsgts14]

If the thick red wire has no voltage, you need to look into this further.

Why do you think the FCM has something to do with the thick red wire. It is completely separate from the pump circuit.

I don't mean the thick red wire is tied in with the FCM, i just mean I feel like there's a fault at the FCM.

the green LED by the RJ connector isn't lit for the red, instead the orange LED is lit, that's the wire for the FCM.

without the FCM functioning correctly, the pump probably won't turn on, correct?

[Richard L]

Not true, the pump turns on regardless of the FCM.

[vsgts14]

Not true, the pump turns on regardless of the FCM.

ok good, so where should i start looking as a culprit?

maybe i'm not doing the test mode correctly? the directions were not very clear to me at least step by step.

like i said though, the thin wires have 12v coming into the relay but the thick wire doesn't seem to have anything to it.

[Richard L]

The first thing to do is getting some power to the thick red wire. I cannot see there are any problem tracking this down.

[vsgts14]

hey richard, i got everything sorted. the power wire was grounded (wiring was done by someone else, so i had to track down where it went).

anyway, i have pressure all the way to the FCM. but nothing is coming out of the "out" line.

[Richard L]

OK, open up the FCM. you will see two wires solder onto the solenoid valve coil. One is red and the other could be green or brown. Cut the brown in two and ground the coil side one. This manually actives the FCM valve. You should hear a click and flow should start at the same time. If is doesn't the valve is dead.

[vsgts14]

rich, it worked! thanks, i grounded that wire coming from the solenoid (it was black), directly to the chassis.

thanks for the help!!! i was not looking forward to buying a new kit.

[Richard L]

Next, pick out the brown wire from the in-coming 8-core cable, cut it from the circuit board. Now connect it to the black wire from the coil (already disconnected from the circuit board)

Let me know.

[vsgts14]

ok, so the brown wire will basically be crimped with the new wire i made? (brown and black from coil connected to one new ground wire).

[Richard L]

The black ground wire of the FCM is unrelated.

post a picture before I get confused. Mark the wires in question with numbers.

[vsgts14]

here is what I got.

[Richard L]

Looking at the picture, are you connecting the black wire of the coil permanently to ground?

[vsgts14]

correct. the small black wire coming off the coil is butt connected to a new wire and then grounded to the chassis. is this alright?

I cut the brown wire and left it until further instruction.

[Richard L]

No, you will burn the coil.

Disconect the black wire from ground and connect the end to the short brown wire. from the incoming harness.

[vsgts14]

okie dokie, and that's all i need to do? brown wire from the main harness connected to black wire coming from the coil? and leave the other two ends blank

[Richard L]

OK, here is an illustration:

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/H6-splice.jpg

[vsgts14]

ok rich, is that the only thing i have to do, and then the system will work properly?

[vsgts14]

hey rich, i connected those two wires and i'm not getting any spray using the test jumper. am i missing something?

[Richard L]

send as picture of your connection work.

[vsgts14]

send as picture of your connection work.

will do. basically, i crimped that brown wire to a new wire and soldered it onto the coil (the wire on it, was not long enough).

i tested all the voltages and it's getting voltage.
i also manually jumped a ground wire to the coil just to make sure the valve was not dead and it indeed does spray out.

[Richard L]

If you use the TST to activate the system. The other jumper link must be on IDC.

[vsgts14]

If you use the TST to activate the system. The other jumper link must be on IDC.

i had them on MPS/IDC/TEST.

the car was tuned yesterday, with all the jumpers etc set as if it would be tuneable, but nothing happened. there's a fault somewhere.

should all the RJ connections have a green light lit?

[Richard L]

Time for a new system?

[vsgts14]

at this point, it points that way correct? is there any way i can buy parts and convert this one to say an HFS3? i mean, the pump wiring is the same, the gauge is the same, the power supply is the same. i would need the control box and injection box.

[Richard L]

None of the connectors are the same. It will be a mess if you to it this way. You can get the H3 system from me minus the pump. Email me.