New HFS4 owner with initial setup questions

[FI_Rubicon]

New HFS4 owner here with initial setup questions....

1) Should I use map 2 with a single 1.0mm or a single 1.2mm jet? As single jets, they seem cross the boundary into map 2 from map 1. Which should I use for the larger single jets?

2) Page, 21, step 9: Okay to select 2.5 BAR for a 2.0 BAR sensor?

3) Page 21, step 12: Can you confirm that the user guide is correct in that WBO2 is grouped with EGT and there is NO soldering to do here?

4) Page 21, step 13: If I am not going to worry about failsafe yet and just leave this configured to trip the low water LED, will it still compensate flow based on WB02?

5) Page 14, step 1: Should I trigger on IDC or P+I? My engine is a supercharged stock motor and it is PI, not DI. Seems like I can go either way on this. I do want to start spraying before boost comes on if that makes sense. Is there an advantage to using the P+I on non-DI?

6) Once I get this running for the first time, which knobs should I start twiddling first and is there a recommended setting order or method? Referring to TRESH, P/I-R and GAIN here.

[Richard L]

Answers:
1) Map 2 (default)
2) Yes
3) Yes, ascending = danger.
4) Yes, just solder link "W" only
5) You can go anyway on this. Experiment which is best. Try IDC first
6) "THRES" is the only one you need to twiddle.

[FI_Rubicon]

Great, thanks!

Impressed with the quality of the kit parts as well as with what is included, not to mention the meticulous packaging and labeling.

6) So no advantage to setting P/I-R to 70/30 versus the default of 50/50?


Soldering question...

I normally use a quality rosin core "44" solder and run a tip temperature of about 680*F. Is this going to be fine?

[Richard L]

The kit is as complete as possible, no need to rush to local shop for bits frequently.

6) I think you need to try the PI-R for best results. 50/50 works well.

Soldering: It is fine, 60/40 at 360C is perfect. Send a picture of your soldering skills.

[FI_Rubicon]

Awesome! Thanks!

Looking forward to implementing the modern version of Sir Harry Ricardo's vision here and now in California. The kit is perfectly at home in my Jeep Wrangler, which says "Since 1941" right on the "Oh Sh*t!" grab-handle.

:)

[Richard L]

Please keep us posted on your progress. Some pictures of the install would be nice.

[FI_Rubicon]

Hi Richard,

Thanks again for your support. I have a thread going on a Jeep JK-specific forum and can echo it here somewhere (maybe on the model-specific forum?).

http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=306937

Here is my solder job. Darn! I am getting old. It was a little tedious and small for my tired old eyes. Even had to clean the eyeglasses and magnifying glass to get a clear view.

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r689/pmbenn/DSC_0120_zps8kpz029u.jpg

[Richard L]

Looks perfect to me. I will visit the link today.

Can you check the tiny centre link of the MPS is cut. It looks very close to the blob on the left.

[FI_Rubicon]

Looks perfect to me. I will visit the link today.

Can you check the tiny centre link of the MPS is cut. It looks very close to the blob on the left.

Thanks! After soldering, I cleaned the flux off with a wooden tooth pick and checked the pads for continuity and no continuity with a VOM. Tested good. I cut that small trace out with an exacto knife.

After a couple of tries, I stuck with that blob.

[Richard L]

Perfectly executed!

[FI_Rubicon]

Some install pics of my work so far....


http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r689/pmbenn/DSC_0147_zpsbklg84ov.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r689/pmbenn/DSC_0148_zpsqomg1rrp.jpg


http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r689/pmbenn/DSC_0155_zpsfialq4yx.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r689/pmbenn/DSC_0158_zpslwcav2ww.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r689/pmbenn/DSC_0156_zps02oryzmb.jpg

[Richard L]

This is an incredibly neat install. Most impressed. Look forward to more pics.

[FI_Rubicon]

This is an incredibly neat install. Most impressed. Look forward to more pics.


The system is up and running. I am still running pure water and still doing some initial tweaks.

Here are the wire connections under the hood. I Posi-Taps to make the connections.

The easiest injector to tap into was is the passenger side front cylinder (#1?). The correct connections are as follows:

The green wire in the Aquamist ECU harness connects to the negative side injector pulse. It is the brown/yellow wire in this picture. The red wire from the Aquamist ECU harness connects to the other injector wire, brown/white.

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r689/pmbenn/DSC_0166_zps5jfi6kvu.jpg

For the MAP sensor signal, I tapped into the MAP sensor extension harness that Edelbrock provides with the supercharger kit. This harness is wired incorrectly from Edelbrock and you either need to switch the wires or mash the connector in backwards (Edelbrock supposedly suggests this). The miswired connector is the one that plugs into the factory harness. The side that plugs into the MAP sensor is correct. The wire that you want to tap into is the Purple wire in the OEM harness. The Edelbrock harness has the yellow and purple wires crossed. The ground in the center is correct. The wire in the Edelbrock harness is yellow.

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r689/pmbenn/DSC_0160_zpsleh59axy.jpg

I tied the HFS4's AUX input into the IAT sensor. The Edelbrock kit relocated the IAT sensor from in front of the throttle body to under the supercharger and intercooler manifolds, just before the intake valve. The kit included an extension harness. I just tapped into the extension harness. There are two wires. The blue wire is the +5VDC source. The blue with black wire is the signal from the thermistor.

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r689/pmbenn/DSC_0159_zpsashwoerc.jpg

I forgot to snap a picture of the wire tap for the lighting circuit but I used a passenger side tail light circuit (US model). It passes along the passenger side rocker and up the kick panel into the engine bay. The harness passes near the glove box and I tapped the white wire with an orange trance (after discovering it electrically at the taillight).

I also have it wired to the Diablosport Trinity AUX 2 input and it seems to be working, though I will need to calibrate it. Now I am pulling in *two* aux inputs for data logging. I will be able to log the flow rate of the WMI as well. It is not an ideal match because the Diablosport Trinuty expects a 0-5v signal versus a "conditioned 0.5-4.5v" signal.

[Richard L]

I will address your questions. First, congratulations on such a beautiful install.

Triggering option of the system:
1. IDC .......... Activation by fuel duty cycle (default)
2. MPS ........... Activation by boost pressure
3. P+I ............ Activation by the "average" of the above two **

** Average is weighted on the P/I-R trimmer settings (Pressure/IDC Ratio)

There is no strict rules what is best suited for your car. It depends on the spool up speed of the super/turbo charger.

Some old school tuners will swear by system should trigger and flow by boost pressure. It makes sensor if you have a belt driven supercharger, where boost is quiet close to true engine load. But when it comes to a turbocharged engine, this rule can no longer applied reliably.

Without RPM reference, turbo Boost pressure has little relevant to true engine load. It is especially true with the modern engine with electronic throttle and cam angle. High boost pressure does not represent more air going into the engine if the throttle is half shut.

I think you should use IDC trigger and use the P/I-R trimmer to find tune your meth/water flow.


For the soft gauge implementation, you can use the equation:

Vg = (Va-0.5)x 1.25
Vg = soft gauge, Va (aquamist)

[FI_Rubicon]

I will address your questions. First, congratulations on such a beautiful install.

I think you should use IDC trigger and use the P/I-R trimmer to find tune your meth/water flow.

Here is a little spray test video that I made...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5s7FxRkqhwA

Thank you. After playing with it, it seems to operate more smoothly setting the trigger to IDC versus P-I but I need play around with it more.

I do have a belt driven SC.

If I have the jumper set on P-I and twiddle the THRESH gain, does it affect the trigger point for P as well or just IDC?

[Richard L]

What is "THRES gain"?

[FI_Rubicon]

What is "THRES gain"?

That's American for "THRESH trimmer."

[Richard L]

THRES will only be affected by twiddling the PI-R trimmer in P+I trigger mode