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View Full Version : Help please,HFS 4 V3 wiring diagram for E63 AMG


Maktech
10-03-2016, 07:18 PM
Hello ,

I am trying to mount HFS4 V3 kit to Mercedes E63 AMG biturbo ;
I could find a schema for CLS 63 amg,
They are almost same but some colour of some wires are different ,
I am worried about that ,
Does someone has any expreince about E63 amg (M157 engine) Biturbo ?

Richard L
10-03-2016, 09:54 PM
Is your car a G63?
We have both diagrams.

Have you seen this one?

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS4/wiring/Mercedes/H4v3-G63-AMG.gif

Maktech
10-03-2016, 10:14 PM
Is your car a G63?
We have both diagrams.

Have you seen this one?



Thanks but my car is E63 AMG biturbo , facelift one which has 585hp.

Richard L
10-03-2016, 10:28 PM
CLS is 4.4L bi-turbo and G63. I don't haver a factory ECU diagram for the E63, sorry.

Does the UCU look the same? If it does, I can 99% sure you can use the same diagram as the G63 and CLS63. I think the ECU is a small variation of the MED17.7.2

Maktech
11-03-2016, 12:43 AM
CLS is 4.4L bi-turbo and G63. I don't haver a factory ECU diagram for the E63, sorry.

Does the UCU look the same? If it does, I can 99% sure you can use the same diagram as the G63 and CLS63. I think the ECU is a small variation of the MED17.7.2

CLS63 AMG has the same engine with E63 , they both have 5,5 V8 biturbo;
Yes the ecu looks like , I hope we won't brake down the ecu or the Aquamist 😊
Thank you for the answers.

Richard L
11-03-2016, 12:54 AM
No, you will be safe either way.

Maktech
14-03-2016, 01:55 PM
CLS 63's and G 63's ECUs are Med 17.7.2
but my cars (E63) MED 17.7.3
I think becouse of that my system doesn't work proberly ,
I need to find the exact schematic of the ECU ;

I'll be thankful if someone can find it for me 😇

Richard L
14-03-2016, 06:19 PM
As far as I know. All you need to do is wire the red and green wire directly to the fuel injector. You can try the grey harness first. Let me the result.

Maktech
14-03-2016, 08:55 PM
Thanks Richard ,
You mean , we only wire red and green wites to the fuel injector without using map sensor signal , right ?

The pump is working when I start the system with the buton on the gauge ,
I hear the sound of working pump but it doesn't inject any liquid , the pump only works. I don't know what triggers to work.

Richard L
14-03-2016, 11:41 PM
Can you confirm the engine does not use direct fuel injectors.

Maktech
14-03-2016, 11:56 PM
Can you confirm the engine does not use direct fuel injectors.

I don't know how to confirm that.
If you know , could you describe me please ?

Richard L
15-03-2016, 12:00 AM
I don't think it is.

Try use the red and green wire of the grey harness first.

Maktech
15-03-2016, 02:16 PM
I'm sending the jumpers positions with the photo ,
Can you check them if they are correct...
The pump still works when we start the engine ,
doesn't pump any water , but we hear the sound of the pump.

373

Richard L
15-03-2016, 05:35 PM
The photo you sent is not easy to view. Can you take a better Hi-res pictuire? The entire circuit board please.

You wrote:
"When you mention the pump still work after your start the engine?"

What exactly.

do you mean by this?

Maktech
15-03-2016, 05:40 PM
I mean , when the engine is at idle , Aquamist's pump working noisy ,
it is not injecting anything but it is working as if it will explode 😱😱😱

Maktech
15-03-2016, 05:43 PM
Here are the jumpers

http://imageshack.com/a/img921/1388/dUYFz5.jpg

Richard L
15-03-2016, 06:16 PM
I mean , when the engine is at idle , Aquamist's pump working noisy ,
it is not injecting anything but it is working as if it will explode 😱😱😱

The pump should not come on when idling. Is this a brand new system?
I need a picture of the entire circuit board, you jet posted the same picture but bigger.

Maktech
15-03-2016, 06:30 PM
Here is the photo of the circuit :

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/921/dvYhhT.jpg (http://imageshack.com/f/pldvYhhTj)


Please watch the video for seeing the pump how is working at idle ,

http://youtu.be/SCX2m5un5S8

Richard L
15-03-2016, 11:03 PM
The pump should not come on at idle.

Can you take a picture of the controller with all the cable plugged in. Again a hi-res picture please. Like to check your plugs.

Maktech
16-03-2016, 11:56 AM
This is the controller

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/922/rJgR3S.jpg (http://imageshack.com/f/pmrJgR3Sj)

Richard L
16-03-2016, 12:16 PM
The connection is good.

So the water pump comes on when the engine idles?

Maktech
16-03-2016, 12:34 PM
Back side of the controller unit

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/921/Vgr5y9.jpg (http://imageshack.com/f/plVgr5y9j)

Maktech
16-03-2016, 12:36 PM
The connection is good.

So the water pump comes on when the engine idles?

Yes , exactly ...

The pump comes on when the engine idles.

The pump works with a big noise ( as in the video that i sent you yesterday )

Richard L
16-03-2016, 12:54 PM
OK, let me try to solve this problem. Need your help.

Can you unplug the grey harness, tell me if the pump stops.

Maktech
16-03-2016, 01:13 PM
I've unplugged the grey harness , the pump stopped but the system is off , too. There is no lamp on the controller unit and on the gauge.

Have I unpluged the right harness , see the photo please ?

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/922/KTZIKN.jpg (http://imageshack.com/f/pmKTZIKNj)

Richard L
16-03-2016, 01:31 PM
This is good so far..

Tell me what wires are used on the grey connector and where are they connected to.

Maktech
16-03-2016, 01:42 PM
We are only using the red wire on the grey connector as in the G63 's wiring diagram , if you see the wiring you will understand where is the red wire is connected.

http://imageshack.com/a/img924/7393/UXYBy6.gif (http://imageshack.com/f/poUXYBy6g)

Richard L
16-03-2016, 03:51 PM
OK, so only the red wire is connected.

Can you out the grey harness back on and pull out the green harness, let me know if the pump stops.
Can you see any led on the circuit board lights up with and without the green harness plugged in.

Maktech
16-03-2016, 04:03 PM
When we pulled out the green harness , the pump working again.

When the green harness is plugged , there is a lamp lighting on the circuit ,
I recorded a video , you can see the lighting lamp.

http://youtu.be/91FcbH1JPvc

When the green harness is unplugged , there is no lamp lighting but the pump still comes on.

Richard L
16-03-2016, 05:31 PM
You wrote:
"When we pulled out the green harness , the pump working again."

What does this mean?

Richard L
16-03-2016, 05:33 PM
OK... we are getting closer

unplug the blue harness, does the pump stop?






can you unplug the blue ocmmen

Maktech
16-03-2016, 05:36 PM
You wrote:
"When we pulled out the green harness , the pump working again."

What does this mean?

When the green harness is disconnected , the pump comes on , there is no change ... I mean , we have the same result with and without the green harness.

Maktech
16-03-2016, 05:41 PM
OK... we are getting closer

unplug the blue harness, does the pump stop?

can you unplug the blue ocmmen

I unplugged the blue harness , the pump stops.

I don't know what "ocmmen" is

Richard L
16-03-2016, 06:22 PM
OK, we have tracked down the area that caused the pump to continue pumping.

Do you have a digital voltmeter? The next test will require it. Please let me know.


Where did you see the word "ocmmen"?

Maktech
16-03-2016, 06:27 PM
Yes , we have a digital voltmeter

Richard L
16-03-2016, 06:37 PM
This is good.

Please measure the resistance between the red and blue wire of the RJ connector side of the blue harness.

Also tell me the order of the wire colour in the RJ connector.

Maktech
16-03-2016, 06:49 PM
Sorry ,

I couldn't find the wires that you told me ;
Actually , I don't know what RJ connector is ��
Could you describe me or please send a photo or scheme

Richard L
16-03-2016, 06:55 PM
When you unplug the blue harness from the controller, the plug is called RJ connector. There are four gold slots. YOu should see the wire colour behind it.

Meanwhile, can you give me some history of the system. Was it installed on other vehicles before? I can see there is some unsuitable colder link on the underside of the circuit board.

Richard L
16-03-2016, 07:04 PM
This is a RJ connector, see the gold fingers between the plastic compartments?

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/conn1.jpg

Maktech
16-03-2016, 07:11 PM
The result is .080

I bought it from my friend , he said that the system is brand new.


http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/921/xhOaJ1.jpg (http://imageshack.com/f/plxhOaJ1j)

Richard L
16-03-2016, 07:14 PM
Is this 0.08 ohm?

What resistance range did you use?

Maktech
16-03-2016, 07:22 PM
This is a RJ connector, see the gold fingers between the plastic compartments?



The RJ connector seems alright


http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/922/NtNx8l.jpg (http://imageshack.com/f/pmNtNx8lj)

Maktech
16-03-2016, 07:27 PM
Is this 0.08 ohm?

What resistance range did you use?


2K ,
shown in the photo

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/921/wGME6r.jpg (http://imageshack.com/f/plwGME6rj)

Richard L
16-03-2016, 10:17 PM
So far so good.

Can you measure the blue wire of the blue harness against a chassis ground, such as the cigar lighter ground.

Richard L
16-03-2016, 10:20 PM
It would be better if you can use the 200 ohm range.

Richard L
16-03-2016, 10:30 PM
Can you also measure the resistance between the blue and black.

Maktech
17-03-2016, 10:07 AM
There is no value between blue and black ,
No value for the blue wire (grounded with cigar lighter)

Richard L
17-03-2016, 06:30 PM
This is good news, the blue harness is in perfect health.

I like you you do some tests on the controller.

There are two rows of 15 test points. Systen ground is on the bottom left of the test points. This is where the black probe of your meter should go.

With the system at "per-crank" key position, please measure the voltage at:

TP4
TP5
TP8
TP11
TP15
TP16
TP17
TP18
TP20
TP23
TP30

You can use the 20V DC range.

Maktech
17-03-2016, 06:59 PM
Here are the results :


TP4 : 12.40

TP5 : 12.41

TP8 : 12.18

TP11 : 8.96

TP15 : 4.96

TP16 : 7.40

TP17 : 1.95

TP18 : 2.98

TP20 : 2.04

TP23 : 12.44

TP30 : 0.02

Richard L
17-03-2016, 07:29 PM
Thank you very good infos

Now switch the gauge on still at pre-crank key position. Same TPs.

Sorry for taking so long trackdown the problem, it one is most unusual.

Richard L
17-03-2016, 07:30 PM
To save time, the next test will be with the engine idling. Same TPs.

Maktech
17-03-2016, 07:35 PM
Thank you very good infos

Now switch the gauge on still at pre-crank key position. Same TPs.

Sorry for taking so long trackdown the problem, it one is most unusual.

No problem , thank you for your suport.

Now it is 8:30 pm here , so the grage is closed.
I will write the results tomorow morning

Maktech
17-03-2016, 07:37 PM
To save time, the next test will be with the engine idling. Same TPs.

Engine idling and Aquamist system on , right ?

Richard L
17-03-2016, 07:37 PM
When you do those tests, please ensure the red harness is unplugged so it can't fill your engine with water, just in case.

Richard L
17-03-2016, 07:46 PM
So far I have found one problem with the system. The system is seeing full IDC, most likely caused by the wrong configuration of the underside of the circuit board by someone, not from the factory. The controller seemed to be in good health.


Here are a few problem areas:
1. There should not be any solder links
2. "2" should be cut
3. All those the pads along the red line should be connected electrically

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS4/Config.jpg

Maktech
17-03-2016, 07:59 PM
I don't have any idea for the 1st one and the 2snd one ,
We haven't changed them , please tell me how they must be ( if possible with a photo) ;
We've soldered the 3th one , the wiring of G63 and CLS63 say that the thin cable must be cut and soldered to 2,5 .
if you look at the wiring , you can see it.
I read the instructions about Direct Injection system ,
it says like this :
"The HFS-4 has three pre-set amplifications. x1 (default), x1.5 and x2.5. x2.5 will cover 95% of pulse duration systems of 0 to 5mS (common DI systems). . "

Richard L
17-03-2016, 08:35 PM
Can you confirm if the E63 AMG is a direct fuel injection engine

Maktech
17-03-2016, 08:48 PM
Can you confirm if the E63 AMG is a direct fuel injection engine


Yes , E63 AMG Biturbo is a direct fuel injection engine ,
The engine code is M157 , this engine is being used in Facelifted E63 AMG by the year 2013 (from 6th month).

Richard L
17-03-2016, 09:13 PM
1. This link is for some very odd fuel injection systems. But in any case, you must cut a link first before solder link another. You can clearly see the "C" is link and "B" is solder linked. Not a good idea.
Just remove the solder on B and you will go towards getting the system back to normal.

2. The links are for matching your MAP sensor. Again you must either cut the link"2" to Remove solder on "3". If your engine has a 3-bar map sensor, just cut the link "2"

3. Before going further, check there are continuity along the red line (normal). For direct injection engine, you are doing the right thing, link x2.5.

What wire are you using on the grey connector? You should only use the thin red wire to the ignition switched 12V source. No other wires are necessary for the time being.

Maktech
17-03-2016, 09:20 PM
We are using only the red wire of grey conncetor for 12V

Maktech
17-03-2016, 09:41 PM
By the way we use one jet , could you describe me how to modify the circuit for one jet ?

Richard L
17-03-2016, 10:11 PM
We are using only the red wire of grey conncetor for 12V

Good, That is all you need to d on the grey wire.

Richard L
17-03-2016, 10:12 PM
By the way we use one jet , could you describe me how to modify the circuit for one jet ?

What size?

Maktech
17-03-2016, 10:21 PM
What size?

The 550cc one

Richard L
17-03-2016, 10:32 PM
You don't need to make any circuit change with that.

Maktech
18-03-2016, 12:54 PM
Richard,
Thanks for the support.

we cut the thin wire between at C ,
And also we change the position of a jumper ;
The system is okay , now

Richard L
18-03-2016, 06:22 PM
According to our record, your system was shipped to someone in Bulgaria. It was April last year, It took almost a year. Some solder configurations were incorrect, it was not done At aquamist. You friend was not telling the truth. It could not be brand new.

You have one more solder mods. The MPS "2" link has to either be cut or unsolder "3".

Maktech
18-03-2016, 08:03 PM
Yes , we made all modifications that you told me then we had another issue ,
The pump comed on at idle ; this time it was injecting water , too .
We changed the jumper IDC to MPS and the system is working without any problem.
I am sending you the last positions of the jumpers :

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/922/yNCIF4.jpg (http://imageshack.com/f/pmyNCIF4j)

Richard L
18-03-2016, 11:32 PM
OK, so far so good.

Lets look into the IDC trigger problem.

I like to take some voltage reading on test pin #16 at:

1. pre-crank
2. idling
3. quick flip of the throttle.

Maktech
19-03-2016, 01:16 AM
OK, so far so good.

Lets look into the IDC trigger problem.

I like to take some voltage reading on test pin #16 at:

1. pre-crank
2. idling
3. quick flip of the throttle.

I will measure it on monday

SAMzG35
23-09-2020, 01:30 AM
Any idea what size nozzle I should run on my 2014 E63s with M157? I need to run two nozzles (one at each charge pipe) right before the intercooler, cant run after intercooler due to lack of space.
I just bought a HFS-4 and not sure which nozzle sizes to order.
I made 610whp and 788wtq on a mustang dyno at 20 psi of boost.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

SAMzG35
05-12-2020, 07:02 AM
Anyone????