HFS4 install Speed3

[BMC123]

Hi Guys,

Just joined this forum today.

I have a Black 2013 w/tech - initial installs - all COBB; FMIC, XLE BPV, Accessport V3, SF Cold Airbox, Short Ram Intake, Turbo Inlet Hose, 3" SS Downpipe, 3" SS Cat-back Exhaust, Polyurethane Exhaust Hangers, Rear Motor Mount. Autotech Fuel Pump Internals, Greddy catch can, Freektune,

Most recent installs/swaps BNR S4, HTP 3" intake kit, , TIG intake to head, CPE EGR delete, Swift lowering springs, rear camber arms, CPE 75 duro driver and passenger mounts, ProMeth Tank, vent gauge pod, Nitto NT05s

Yet to get up and running, Aquamist HFS-4 V-3 w/m injection kit to combat our absolutely garbage, 91 octane. I bought the Kit from Edge AutoSport. They don't have the answers to these questions. Can anyone assist?


1. On page 11 of the manual, step #4 of the "Quick Start" states, "(Plugging in the Green harness is required for DI engines)". At what point in those 4 steps is the green harness to be plugged in?

2. I'm looking at making 400 whp. My tuner, Justin at Freektune tells me that in his experience with the earlier versions of the Aquamist kits, we should be able to manage that with the 1.0 nozzle. The chart in the manual for the HFS4 suggests that I need the 1.2 nozzle for this goal. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks in advance.

Brian

[Richard L]

Welcome to the forum.

Answers to your questions:

1. You need to have the green harness plugged in at the start.

2. If your car is going to be tuned, it is better to take the advice of the tuner. The reason for using the 1.2mm jet is to allow a bit of headroom should you need it. It doesn't really matter of the jet is oversized as the system can reduce the flow electronically by the user.

Post some pictures of your mods.

[BMC123]

Thanks for your quick response. Since I already have it, I'll go with the single 1.2 jet to avoid possibly having to go larger later.

I apologize in advance for the dumb questions I'm going to ask. There are huge gaps in my knowledge base re modding and automotive in general. To compound matters, I'm a little slow on the uptake. The mods I did were from internet videos and forums. That said, I've a couple more questions.

1. The first wiring diagram for the Speed3 appears to be for the 2nd generation (Gen 2), 2010-13. Is that correct and is that configuration usable for my current mods. (see signature for list of mods)

2. If the answer to question 1 is yes, the orientation of the six point cluster where I select x2.5 for DI engines (#8 on pg. 21 of the manual) is different from my actual motherboard and diagram in my manual to your your wiring harness diagram on this forum. This is confusing. Do you have an updated diagram you can post?

3. At the bottom left of page 22 in the manual, does "1 & 2 for one jet." mean that for my single 1.2 jet, I cover pads 1 and 2 with a solder blob? I'd rather ask and look dumb now than after the solder.

2013 Speed3 current mods - Accessport V3, FMIC, HTP 3” intake, 3" SS Downpipe, 3" SS Cat-back Exhaust, XLE BPV, Autotech Fuel Pump Internals, , BNR S4 turbo, Cobb 3 port boost control solenoid, Bosch 3 bar TMap Map Sensor with IAT, TIG intake to head, CP-E EGR delete, Swift Spec R performance springs, rear camber arms, CP-E 75 duro driver and passenger mounts, Cobb Rear Motor Mount, Polyurethane Exhaust Hangers, Greddy catch can. Currently running 2 gallons of in-tank meth per fill-up.

Thanks in advance.

B

[BMC123]

BTW, if anyone else with a Gen 2 Speed 3 is looking at the HFS4, I found it quite handy for the wiring, that there is a plug that opens from the firewall to a point directly behind the glove box. I believe it to be used by Mazda to locate the steering on the right side. There are two plugs, one rubber, one plastic. Both are easy to modify to allow for the passage of the wiring harnesses and then be snapped back into place, maintaining a good seal. I uploaded a couple of photos.

[porterhouse07]

Thanks for your quick response. Since I already have it, I'll go with the single 1.2 jet to avoid possibly having to go larger later.

I apologize in advance for the dumb questions I'm going to ask. There are huge gaps in my knowledge base re modding and automotive in general. To compound matters, I'm a little slow on the uptake. The mods I did were from internet videos and forums. That said, I've a couple more questions.

1. The first wiring diagram for the Speed3 appears to be for the 2nd generation (Gen 2), 2010-13. Is that correct and is that configuration usable for my current mods. (see signature for list of mods)

2. If the answer to question 1 is yes, the orientation of the six point cluster where I select x2.5 for DI engines (#8 on pg. 21 of the manual) is different from my actual motherboard and diagram in my manual to your your wiring harness diagram on this forum. This is confusing. Do you have an updated diagram you can post?

3. At the bottom left of page 22 in the manual, does "1 & 2 for one jet." mean that for my single 1.2 jet, I cover pads 1 and 2 with a solder blob? I'd rather ask and look dumb now than after the solder.

2013 Speed3 current mods - Accessport V3, FMIC, HTP 3” intake, 3" SS Downpipe, 3" SS Cat-back Exhaust, XLE BPV, Autotech Fuel Pump Internals, , BNR S4 turbo, Cobb 3 port boost control solenoid, Bosch 3 bar TMap Map Sensor with IAT, TIG intake to head, CP-E EGR delete, Swift Spec R performance springs, rear camber arms, CP-E 75 duro driver and passenger mounts, Cobb Rear Motor Mount, Polyurethane Exhaust Hangers, Greddy catch can. Currently running 2 gallons of in-tank meth per fill-up.

Thanks in advance.

B

I believe the x2.5 should be jumpers now and not solder joints. That's how mine is at least

edit: my bad, got confused as to which question involved soldering.