BMW N54 HFS-4 with t-map 3.5

[PConnect]

Hi friends
made this weekend my first Aquamist installation, all went pretty nice until i activated the failsafe function (“DSF” using the “DHB” jumper). If i set the Jumper to DR0 and i switch off the WI at the dash gauge, the car jumps to limp mode. While having the Jumper on DR1, i just can hear from the exhaust noise, that the wastegate most probably is open.

now i detect that the car is not running the standard t-map 2.5, but the t-map 3.5 and i believe this could be the issue.
Whats your toughs on this?

Under point 7 (Map Sensor Type), can i now just cut the middle solder link and add a solder link to the 3.5 and the problem is fixed? I believe the right one should get linked from the picture, but im not sure one this.


http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS4/wiring/N54/H4v3-N54_FS.gif

[Richard L]

Which HFS4 version do you have? V3 or V3.1

[PConnect]

Hi Richard, is v3.1
thx

[Richard L]

The V3.1 is factory set to 3.5 bar MAP sensor.

[PConnect]

ok, its confusing because on the frontside of the board tmap 2.5 is highlighted.

So left solder link means 2.5, middel 3.5, right atmosperic; 2|3|A right?

[Richard L]

The backside of the board should be 3.5 linked. The drawing you posted is for the v3 controller, not v3.1.

[Richard L]

Here is the latest:

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS4/wiring/BMW/v3.1-N54_FS.gif

[PConnect]

Perfect it works

Thanks Richard ;)

[Richard L]

The wiring is is identical.

[johmei]

Hm, I have not been using the WMI for the last year but run a 4Bar T-MAP since spring. If I want to run the WMI again I would need to resolder my v3.0 board? Never thought of the Aquamist needing adjustments to the T-Map but it makes sense.

Ps. I use the JB4 piggy now to handle the different voltage of the new sensor. Flash is standard 2.5bar MAP-tables.

[Richard L]

Not need, the V3 is already set to 3 bar from factory.

Richard