Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

I have successfully installed and followed the power-up procedure in the manual but now I am having a problem getting the system to prime out the 6mm hose when i disconnect it from the FAV.

I turn the IGN to the "on" stage with the jumper on the INJ prongs, then when the dash gauge starts up I remove the INJ jumper and put it on the SYS prongs as instructed in the manual. Then after about 5secs I can hear the pump click and the water level light turns on despite being about 60% filled with water.

I have the pre-built HE kit so pretty sure the level sensor is fine. :)

thanks in advance. :cool:

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Are you trying to primg the system without the inline valve connected?

If you want to primind the system wth "valve assembly" and "jet", you must keep the INJ jumper in place and use the spare jumper from the "prk" to activate the system.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Thanks for the quick reply Richard, just reading the manual again and its saying something different. I Just took the spare prk jumper and and put it on the sys prong while leaving the inj jumper enabled and it made a louder click but thats about it......

Priming and purging of the system:

a: fill up the tank with water half way.
b: Disconnect the 6mm hose from the FAV assembly and put the hose into a container securely.
c: ignition switch in pre-crank position and gauge is switched on. Uncover the controller and pull out the "inj" jumper (disabling the FAV) and put it to the link marked "sys". The pump should power up and water should come out of the 6mm hose within a few seconds.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

If the water is not coming out of 6mm hose end with force, the pump head may have some trapped air. Use a small length of 6mm hose (better the entire 16 feet length), let the water from the pump flow back to the tank. This is a better way for getting rid of the trapped air in the pump head.

The click when INJ and TST is enaged, the valve is opened 100%. Try not to do it more than 1 minute at a time withiut and water going pass it.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Okay, I took off the long hose and attached a 25cm 6mm line from the pump back up to the tank. Unfortunately it has not made a difference. The pump just doesn't want to seem to turn on. I checked power to the pump with the multimeter and it is fine. I have even tried to manually suck air out of the pump head through the line with a little bike pump that has a reverse setting. The water pumps through fine so I think the problem is elsewhere.

I have disconnected the water level sensor but no matter what I try I keep getting the water level light coming on instead of the system actually priming.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

The yellow led is doubled up as a failsafe, it will naturally comes on if the valve assembly is not connected.

Can you bridge pin30 and 87 and let me know if the pump comes on. Check the fuse also. It can be a bad relay.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Okay I have found the problem :) it was the fuse....... I know I sound like an idiot but I put a brand new 15A fuse in and it must have blown straight away. I saw it was blown so I put another in and sure enough it blew straight away also, this continued for the remaining 4 mini fuses I had....

So went down to the local Repco and got a different brand and sure enough it works like a charm.

Sorry for the fuss, and thanks for the help. :)

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Hello,


I have strong feeling my HFS-3 is acting as single stage. PWM jumper is well closed and SSG is open. The only jumper which is not on default location is Trigger one as I've chosen to trigger with boost instead of IDC, trigger is set up at 0.6 bar now.
when system is trigged, the guage will indicate 5 bars instanly and won't change any indication, no matter I set the boost to 0.8 or 1.3 bar, it still indicate same flow. same reading with any RPM. what could be the cause of this ?

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

It may be acting fine, the display depends on a number of factors: being IDC range you spray in, jet size, and injector size and usage.

For example, if you start spraying at 40%IDC, and you injectors max at 65%, then the range of movement of the bargraph will be small, no matter the RPM or perceived load. If you can give us some specifics we can determine if it is operating correctly.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

hello,

the kit is setup to start spraying at 0.6 bar of boost pressure, which must be around 20%IDC then it goes up to around 65%

when I tested the kit on my fuel map. I did this test :
- boost set up at 0.7. when HFS3 activate, it goes straight to 5 bars. engine has hesitation as A/F ratio goes over 10:1 then it gets better as rpm rise
- boost set up at 1.3 bar. when hfs3 activate, it goes great as boost reach higher pressure (it still indicate 5 bars no mater RPM). A/F ratio is much closer to normal at 1.3 bar, which means there is less methanol vs fuel than when setup at 0.7 bar.

also, when I first did flow test, I ended up using 1mm nozzle, which was perfect flow size. but when I tried to drive with it, when HFS activated, car was just hesitating like hell (very rich). so, I changed for .8 nozzle, which went quite better.

I also noticed EGT are going a bit down when the pump trigger. but is going up again when boost or RPM rize up to same value it was without Aquamist

note : those test were done using 50:50 water/meth

so in my opinion, my active valves just stay open and act like single stage kit.