There's a grommet near that battery that is perfect for running the line under the car with the fuel rails. The stock washer tank is a little small for a meth tank and I would recommend something at least 2 gallons. But using the stock tank does make for a very clean installation since it all stays behind the cover.

Also that first batch of garret stock location turbos has had some issues. Like the wastegates falling off. We have an FP red, cosworth cams, and an AEM WI system in our X.

Thanks for the info! I wondered if Mitsubishi had us "Meth Heads" in mind when they decided to put the tank there. I was a little shock when i seen it. But i have a 6-Gallon Storage Tank and a 1 gallon primary tank being used ;)

Going with a GT35R kit, cams, and stock bottom... Until she goes BOOM!

I really like your attitude to the "life cycle" of a tuned car.

Oh Common' Richard, that could be forever, or it could be tomorrow. My point being, when i am ready to build the block is when every last lil horsey is squeezed out of that motor! There is only 1 way to find out the limits of a stock motor when no one else has stepped up to the plate. It's a shytty job, but someone's gotta do it!

I posted this in the pics thread but it would be more appropriate here...

I saw the posts about the failsafes. On the GD STi ECU's (2005) can you show me or send me a pinout where I would have the shop hook up the failsafes? I am running a Prodrive solenoid and Cobb AP tuning.

I have the USDM wiring diagram for ther Subaru, I am not sure what GD STi means - let me know if the diagram is approproate for your car.

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS6/Subaru/H6-05sti.gif

2005 USDM STi is a GD body style. The picture is not showing up

sslotnick@mac.com is my email Richard

I have reloaded the diagram. I have also sent you a pdf version.

So the kit is installed and I am tuned. There was a major issue though.As soon as the install was complete, I was not able to be tuned because of a fan issue. So I turned the kit off to drive home on my pump map which was fine. Even if I was injecting meth on my pump map it will just run pig rich. Well, here is where it got interesting. I took it into boost going home and I overboosted tremendously (27psi) when I was tuned at 19. Came off gas and drove home in vacuum until my tune thinking a vacuum line came off. Today, he looked at all the lines and pressure tested the waste gate to make sure it wasn't anything like that. Did the first pull on the dyno and boom (27psi) same thing. Turned boost down to minimal and timing all the way down and same thing again. Stumped he looked at the directions and opened the ECU harnesses again and verified all the wiring against the diagram shown above and it was wired perfectly as shown above into pin 32. So as of this point, neither the tuner or the stock ECU has control over the boost or waste gate. He said lets try cutting the connection and reverting back to the stock way bypassing the failsafe to see how it works. Voila, it boost perfectly and I get tuned and it worked out great. My question is what needs to be done to correct the situation? Is there an issue with the ECU diagram you sent or the board? Is there something else I am missing?

The HFS-6 allows you to have full control of ther failsafe trigger sensitivity.

it appeared that the trip sensitivity of failsafe is set too high. the trimmer marked "FLSF SENS".

- Fully counter-clockwise: 100mS (very sensitive - grace periofd is very short)
- Fully clockwis: 600mS (grace period is extended)

"grace period" is the system's response to a "over-shoot and under-swing" situation before the failsafe mechanism is triggered. This is relative to the WL and WH gap width.

For the time being, set the failsafe as follows:
1. "SFLSF SENS" to filly clockwise.
2. Set the SC to display 5-6 bars across at full boost and RPM.
3. Set the WL to fully counter-clockwise (almost no under-swing detection)
4. Set the WH to full clockwise (almost no over-swing detection)

Get your tuning done and then narrow the "Failsafe" window gap slowly. (#3 and #4). Perhaps 10 clicks. Once you have experienced no trip, wind the "FLSF SENS" in the counter-clock direction to decrese "grace period", ie more sensitive or quicker response to a "over-shoot and "under-shoot" situation.