Re: Pump priming?
 

Ive been away for awhile and i dont have the means to test this :( in the mean time I noticed something else weird. On the diagram for the mazdaspeed gen 1 the red wire says to plug into the ignition relay with the pin on the PCM being 1AY. When i look at my PCM layout 1AY is different. 1AY is +12V from ignition switch, PJB F69, 20A. I noticed that if i have the car in precrank and let the gauge be fully functional. Then i try to roll up my window on the driver side after it is all the way up i will throw a body control module engine error and the pump will start going off as long has i keep trying to roll the window up. WTF IS GOING ON! I tried connecting the red wire to the ignition relay but its not a 12v so i get no power at all on that wire. Take a look at this diagram is matches the one i have for my car http://hackedecu.com/2007-mazdaspeed3-ecu-pinout

Re: Pump priming?
 

Note that the window issue only happens in precrank. If the car is running this doesn't happen. If i have the gauge off and im in precrank this issue doesn't happen. Only in precrank with the gauge on. By on i mean the button is pushed an its lit.

Re: Pump priming?
 

Oh just found out the PBJ stands for passenger juntion box which is basically the body control module! Well im guessing its no coincidence that's the error i get since 1AY is the wire I'm tapping which has the PJB on it also. Now I know 1AY isn't the right wire i should be tapping so which one is? The only other 12v i have on the PCM is 1BA though it's only a 10A.

Re: Pump priming?
 

Thanks for the input. These are information most welcomed. I check with most of the existing diagram people have kindly submitted to me in the past.

I think the alternative connection to 1AY would be 2BE or 2BF. They are fuel injector relay related. Let me know if it works.

Re: Pump priming?
 

Richard you are a lifesaver thanks so much i will give that a try and see what happens. I have to work today but afterwards that is the first thing on my to do list. Ill post up the results hopefully positive! Thanks again! :)

Re: Pump priming?
 

If the result is positive, I will change the drawing on here.

The factory diagram does say much. Especially about the window open variation.

Re: Pump priming?
 

Okay so preliminary results are in. Switched the wire over to 2BE and as expected i no longer get the window problem and no check engine light! However the original problem remains :( Going from p2 to p1 the pump goes off for a split second. Now I dont think this matters but it might. The red wire from the pump goes directly to the battery. Then i taped that wire for the red input wire on the controller and put a 10A fuse in there. Would that cause my problem?

Re: Pump priming?
 

Okay so I've battled with false flow for a long time. I've even got my wires wrapped and everything. But it only solved about 95% of my false flow or what i called "slow to go away flow" because it would get stuck then go away after the unit triggered again. After switching to this new 2BE i went on a quick highway cruise and triggered the unit at least 15 times. In the past this is the test I've used to see if my false flow was gone and every time it would show up at least once in my testing. This time I got no false flow so I'm very excited about that. I'm curious to why that is but oh well I won't question good results. I hope it's permanent I have a lot of driving to do the next few days so I will let you know what happens.

Re: Pump priming?
 

This is very good news.

Both terminals. according to the factory wiring diagram, provide 12V at pre-crank position. I will update and change the drawing this weekend.

Thanks for the feedback.