Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Have to altered the Failsafe delay trimmer. It may help a great deal.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Thanks for the diagram and help Richard. And crimeboss, thanks for support. He has the system installed but just needs to do the boost selonoid wiring now. He took the car out and could tell it was spraying due to the misfires that occurred around 10psi of boost.

Is the default trigger about 42% idc and is that about right for most setups (850 injectors, 23-24 psi, 2.5 hybrid 03 wrx). Also any other settings that need to be adjusted before I pick the car up Saturday.

Thanks for any help. This stuff is a bit over my head so sorry if ?'s are very noobie.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

ok i still need to test as there was too much traffic today. but initial thoughts looks like it is sorted.

so as advised by richard, i put the 0.9mm jet and have set the failsafe delay at full right (600ms) currently the thresh is on 2nd line and it seems to behave nicely.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

hey guys as i get closer to figuring out the exacts for my system even though i havent contacted jeff yet to get it shipped lol (SORRY JEFF ill give you a call soon) im having some difficulty understanding some things to set up my system.

so my questions are as follows....

what is 100% DC for the hfs-3? How many miliseconds? or is there no max it just follows ecu inj DC regardless of max RPM and INJ size. I.E. the matching of % of injectant is based off the injector choosen to match correct?

reason i ask is all this talk about the inj DC start times 12-72% well how does it know or are these just random numbers put down for refrence purposes later?

i need this info as i will be running it on a 94 mazda rx-7 and being i have stagged injection i need to figure out what inj to tap off for the signal? primary or secondary unfortunatly they are not equal sizes so the inj DC will be different for them. which will determine injector size and trimming later.

also being the injector duty is different and the secondaries dont even come on till 38ish IDC i believe at which time the primaries drop IDC to match thier respective fueling % of the total IDC for that event. and then they come up linearily from there. LET ME VERIFY SOME OF THIS.

another question is the IDC or BOOST threshold? any more info on this as the hfs-3 manual states nothing really how it works. as i understand it it is ONLY for the starting threshold correct? after that it mimics IDC only not boost pressure? so if boost threshold jumper used the threshhold potentiometer would have what reference? 0-5v of the MAP? i believe this would be my best bet for threshold activation and nozzle size can be calculated on which injector i reference from easier.

may be a little much but any info please
z

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

On the RX7, it is a problem but there are three solutions


1. Splice into the secondary rail, tracking the IDC from 25% to 100%

2. The HFS-3 can be configured to be progressive with boost on the under side of controller. (Not MPS trigger link on top). If you want to go for this option, I will post more and show you how this is done, requires the use of a soldering link), We did want to put too many things on the user manual, it only confuses people.

3. Use a "summing module" so you get the total fuel flow from idle, see link:
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=626836&page=3

Here is the beast:

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...7/summer-s.jpg

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

ahh nice to see now i assume used with the HFS-3 the PWM out on the SUMMER would go to the HFS-3 injector in? whats the price of this unit? would i need to order that directly from you if i went this route i didnt see it on Howerton's site.

and for the boost sensing it dosent switch to IDC after the threshold so that is pointless and might as well be an on off valve IMHO. so i will not be using that.

now ran off the secondary IDC is definatly close as i can get short of the SUMMER but i dont think i need any lower than what i can do off the secondary. i have verified that i can change the % IDC that the secondaries come on at with my PowerFC stock is at 40% IDC FYI. also once the secondaries come on line both the primaries and secondaries have the same IDC time so i believe this will work out excelent with my furute plans of swapping to the AEM PNP which can better control the IDC's for the secondary swap over.

thanks
z

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

1. Yes, the output of the summer goes to the input of the HFS-3. It is only available directly from us at $120.00 + shipping.

2. The HFS-3 can be configred to work solely on boost, no IDC input is required. Consider MAP based signal only readd one variabe (boost). IDC signal contains the product of all sensors.

3. Even without the power FC, it is still workable on tracking the secondary injector signal. I believe the OE ramps the secondary injector from 25% DC on.

If your primary injector is 550cc x2 (1100cc) and 850cc x2 (1700cc) you total fuel is 2800cc From 25% to 100% DC on both set, your lowest WMI starting point is from 700cc/min to 2800cc/min. It is not a bad at all.

40%DC is what most of our user set the thoer WMi starting point. Unless you have huge fuel injectors.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

1. good to hear ill keep that in mind later on down the road if needed

2. exactly the reason i want to use IDC not just BOOST and the HSF-3 just simplifies this

3. yes currently the stock injectors later upgradding to 4x 1000cc secondaries but keeping the 550 or equivilant primaries so it should work out just right. and like i said ill be dropping the secondary transition % if i need to later after testing the system on the current safe tune on straight pump.

one other question though was the potentiometer for threshold. being that everyones IDC is different pending rpm and injector size and inj cycle style (batch,sequential, semi-seq) whats the reference miliseconds for the threshold settings? i.e. 12% equals ?? miliseconds 42%, 72% equals what milisecond on time?

good info thanks

z

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

richard, pick car up Sat (03 wrx hybrid, 850 inj. anticipate 23-24 psi). My installer wired to cylinder 1 instead of 3 or 4. He says from what he checked out that that's no issue. Is this ok from your perspective? Need to know pretty soon before pick car up.

Can I dis-enable unit until I get a tune. It's now installed and working but wont get tuned for 2-3 weeks. NOt sure I want to run water and meth mixture during that time as installer (an engine builder) says that water can potentially pool and possibly cause increased compression and hurt moving parts.

Could I just turn the thess or whatever its called on the controller all the way clockwise so that it wouldn t trigger jets till like 72% idc so that I can boost some but not max?

Anyway, I know you're busy but just want to know if the link to cylinder 1 is ok and about disabling the unit or setting the scale to not trigger till high rate idc.

If you get a chance to respond I appreciate it. I know you are very busy. I will also post on the board in case others can help.

Thanks, Gerry

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Yes, you can either turn the IDC threshold all the way right as you suggested, or you can just turn the unit off on the gauge face as well. This will enable the failsafe unless you temporarily change a jumper on the board.

It doesn't matter what cylinder you wire the IDC signal to, unless there is something special about your car.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Great, thanks a lot for the information. I didn't know you could just turn it off on the gauge.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Mr reply in green...

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

excelent support from aquamist directly on this site as well as the wiring diagrams for the few wires that need to be connected

thanks

z

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

This is a question in regards to extending the two cables that connect to the PVM. I can cut/splice to add length or put an extention coupling at the end and run additional cable. However, is the flow sensor set to length and looking for a specific resistance/ohm number ? If I extend it will the readings be off ?

Thanks

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

No problem extending the wires.

Richard

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Thanks....just a quick trick to pass on about running the wires. If you put heat shrink around the ends it keeps the tab from breaking as you pass it through confined spaces. Once its done just cut it off with a razor.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Please explain again, I didn't quite get it

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Hello everyone,

I have a question. Where the failsafe is connected and how it control my timing/boost whenever I'm out of water/methanol mix, or any other fault condition in the system?

My car is a modified 07 STI, and I'm looking into H2O/Meth injection for the first time. Trying to learn as much as possible before making a decision.

Thanks and best regards,

Guillermo

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Hello again,

What's the size of the gauge? 52 or 60 mm

Thanks,

GS

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

The gauge is 52mm

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Hey guys :)

Quick Q about wiring in the HFS-3 to an EVO 7 JDM ECU. In the Diagram it shows a red, green and a pink wire to go in to the ECU harness. However the RJ-45 cable supplied does not have a pink wire :confused: which one am I supposed to connect to pin 42 for the +alt map switch. :)

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

^^^I think the orangy looking wire is the pink one....
I am installing my hfs3 in my evo8 atm and having some problems with getting the pump to prime...did it work well for you?

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

The latest version of the HFS3's pink map switch wire has been replaced by an orange wire, We may not hav euipdated all the diagrams on the user manual. The cable supplier decided to change it.

Our apology.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Richard :
lol, no apology needed :) the amount of help you provide is above and beyond and I am sure everyone appreciates it. :cool:

daymean :
Sorry mate, I have not tried to turn the system on yet as my engine is still not in the car. When its back in I will let you know :)

Also I will have lots of pics of the install.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

X2 both Richard and Jeff @ Howerton.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

hey guys, back to bother you again :o

I finished the wiring for the control units power and I can only get the one LED to light up. Is this because I have not filled the tanks for the first time yet ? I am still putting the motor back in but all the sensors and wiring is done.

I read the manual and saw it should come on after 5-10 secs ? what am I missing :o:o:o

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...3/IMG_0091.jpg

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Disconnect the water level sensor and try again.

The system will not start up if the tank is empty.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

problem solved. thank you muchly :)

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Hey Richard,
When setting up the Sensor calibration, should this be done with the jumpers in test mode, while the car is stationary?

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

It has to be done on the road to be certain.

I suggest 10 clicks on WL and WH from ZERO. Set the SC to 12 o'clock Let me knwo how many bar you are seeing with this setting.

Where are you located

Richard

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

I have a 2003 evo 8. Is it possible to run both the map switch and use the wiring to cut boost to wg for failsafe from a ebc. I want to use the map switching to change fuel maps but use my current ebc to control the boost level still instead of a seperate bcs. I assume that I can run both because I am not using boost control on my alternate map, but I want to make sure I would not fry the board lol. I plan to install a switch/led to allow me to continue to run high boost after changing maps. Thank you for your time.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

The map switching and contacts for the WG solenoid are different circuits so I believe you can do both without issue.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Hi I'm looking for a WMI system for my mazda6 MPS mainly to keep things cool up top as I'm seeing some KR above 4500 rpm (stock tune, autoexe IC, remus catback, Q8 98 ron).

Considering the post above I would conclude that the HFS-3 is suited for DI petrol engines like the MZR DISI in my mazda? I believe I saw a scheme for the 3 MPS which has the same engine but a different ECU.

I've been looking around for WMI on the net and noticed that most manufacturers offer 200 - 250 psi pumps for "better atomization".
Aquamist offers pumps that deliver 150 psi. Is the increase in atomization between a 150 psi and 250 psi pump relevant or is this just marketing? Are there any downsides you guys know of when using a 150+ psi pump (inertia?).

Thanks

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

It is unusual to see knock on on a relatively 98 ron fuel. Has your boost been turned up?

The HFS-3v2 (now shipping) has the ability to read all the Direct injested cars. Just contact me know and I will send you the information how to configure it for your car.

Apart from Aquamist, all makes of wmi system on the market is based on pump speed. A PPS (progressive pump speed) system relies on pressure to bridge its dymanic range. For example, to double the flow, you need to quadruple the pressure.

A wmi system often start as 50psi and ramp up to 200psi (standard trim). So the flow coverage can only serve a power change between 100 to 200bhp. Even at 250 psi, the converage only extends from 100-225bhp. (A little more).

Marketing do miss out soem facts. a PPS system does spray at 250 psi all the time. IN fact it rarely stay at this pressure unless you are at full boost all the time. A dairy drive with occasional burst of power means your average pressure is much less than 150psi.

The aquamist system sends pwm pulsed to an inline valve, similar to a fuel injector. Pressure is kept constant at 160psi. Regardless of low and high flow delivery, you get the same 160 psi pressure for atomisation.

To the contrary, the PPS system will suffer from lagging power transient response due to the mass of the rotating pump motor. Slow to ramp up and slow to stop (dribble). The aquamist system line is kept at 160psi at all time, it only takes a few thousandth of a second to reach full flow and stop spraying.

If you are interested, I will post some videos.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Thanks for the answer. I think I found the vids you're refering to via the Howertone website. I understand what going on now, pretty niffty.

I'm still running the stock tune but I've been seeing some KR (0,4 - 3?) at WOT pulls past 4000 rpms (115 bar of fuel pressure, 1 bar of boost, AFR's below 11).

Went on holiday to Germany and as they don't have Q8 stations over there (have Q8-tankcard) I filled her up with Shell V-power racing (100 ron). I still got the knock countdowns (6? to 0? in ten secs) when cruising on the highway which I assume are just ECU callibrations, but I didn't have the WOT knock anymore which led me to conclude that while running the Q8 98 ron fuel my engine was more prone to knock.

I've read up on the HFS system some more and the HFS-2 setup might be better for me as I can still upgrade when I decide to up the boost later.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

- The map switch output is the orange wire of the grey harness
- The boost cut out is the brown (valve side) and white (EBC side) of the grey harness.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Has your car been modified?

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

it has an upgraded TMIC (autoexe), a catback (remus) and a bpv (HKS). I wouldn't say it's highly modified :rolleyes: The knock isn't audible btw I'm reading KR of my dashhawk.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Oh I see, I thought it was the OE log. Does the knock event confirmed by the OE log (if available)?

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

I don't know if I understand yr question correctly. But the dashawk reads some ECU parameters through the OBDII port. One of the parameters is knock retard.
I've owned the car for four years now and I've heard it knock about three times (=> highway driving and boosting in sixth gear = high load / low rpm => MZR DISI doesn't like). On every occasion the KR alert on the DH lit up so I figure when there is knock it is detected. However the DH also shows KR on occasions when there is no audible knock (e.g. part thorttle cruising or WOT). I'm not too worried about the part throttle knock, but I'm looking to fight the WOT knock with a WI-system.