To answer this, a concept should be explained. A water droplet has a strong affinity to combine with another to form a larger drop. It is seen when you put 2 drops on wax paper, sufficiently close, they will pull together. Surface tension, a science term, is what is doing this. Some covalent bond on the molecular or something...

The problem with a conduit is that it provides an environment ripe for collisions, so as to be counter to what we are trying to achieve. What we are trying to achieve is lowest particle size=maximum surface area of water. The surest way to do this is to spray a lot of water onto a solid surface, like a wall mounted nozzle spraying 90 degrees to air flow. There is a film clip I found that shows just how inneffective this is for evaporation, but very effective for recombining atomized liquid.

There are those that feel that the major cause of blade damage is from large recombined amounts of liquid streaming into the blade. Although government research has shown impingement damage from extensive use in power generating applications using small micron misting, but it must be acknowledged that these applications use injection 100% of operation, with turbines spinning 24 hours a day. We would employ it for less than 1% in a street application, only to enhance top end power and cooling. So long as siphoning is eliminated as a source of potential injury, a good injection method should show no measurable damage over the life of a vehicle. My opinion. That leaves how I would define a good method, your question. Approaching it with these things in mind, if I wanted significant evap cooling prior to the blades, I would line up an infinite number of infinitely small nozzles, spraying into the airstream. All the nozzles would be located in the center of the conduit, yes. Now back to reality, this is not practical, and further, if evaporation prior to the blades is not a goal, then more simple. Spray right onto the blades, with the airstream. There is no chance for water to recombine.

You might consider a combination of techniques. A small nozzle spraying directly into the turbo, and back-to-back nozzles on a T, spraying from the center, located as far upstream as possible. Utilize at least 100 psi, and an effective fogging type nozzle, should get mean particle size down to 50 micron.

If you can get ahold of 500-800 psi, you can have real fog of the 20 micron variety, which will damage nothing. But you have to use nozzles designed for that purpose. Most stuff on the w/i circuit is low pressure, and avg spherical sizes are well over 100 micron in reality.

as for removing an IC, not usually a good idea. You could use the same techniques. I personally think the back-to-back T nozzle arrangement is a practical arrangement that would work very well. Use nozzles that have a spray pattern of 90 degrees or less, to try to keep as much of the spray off the wall as possible.

After a lot of time and thinking and asking questions im going to remove the intercooler and go full WI as my only source of cooling, i have just ordered the right parts from an aquamist supplier to upgrade my 2C to a 2D with a few more bits and pieces as well and sometime soon i'll get the pipework made.

I figure my cars just a pure daily driver as i don't do track work, i only go to drags maybe once or twice a year if i get the time and i don't give it hell when i drive it only the odd burst here and there, and with the turbo i got which is a TD05H/20G running 18psi which is easy for it and it shouldn't be scortching the air to badly so i can remove stock restrictive intercooler and let the turbo flow/move more air and maybe get rid of some exhaust back pressure at the same time and hopefully WI should keep temps under control and the motor det free. :wink:

Andy

You are brave, man!

Good luck to you & I'm really looking forward to see your good result.
Keep updating, please.

:lol: I have faith in Aquamist products i have had the 2C on my car for about 2 years now and not one single issue but this will put it to the test and yes for sure i will update soon as the mods are done and i do some of my own logging and then the final ecu tune.. :D

Andy

Update: Piping is made just have to wait for delivery which be in 2 days time, 2c is now upgraded to a 2D and i will be running 2 * 0.5mm jets.. still have to buy a knocklink though before a full power tune is even considered and i'll keep the boost low around 1 bar...

Is Kel doing the tune Andy?

Yeah Brett he will be, not sure exactly when yet as i have a few more things i have to get sorted.

Some pics of the piping and with it fitted which is all stainless and with the 2 jets in place which are not quite where i wanted them though but it will do, and piping is about as short as it gets. Everythings bit rough but i will tidy it up :oops:

HERE

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I am very interested in this. On a 20g the response should be a lot better with out that huge void to fill. If this works, without knock, or blowing up your engine. I may consider this. I am running a VF22 right now. This is cool though. Good luck, and hope it works. What size nozzles you using? And pump pressure?