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Gelf 20-11-2004 04:57 PM

Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
Purpose of experiment:


Primary:

Determine the ideal amount of water to use and when to inject it.


Secondary:

Compare a single jet / HSV / FIA2 application to a twin jet / HSV / FIA2 application.

The single jet injects once every two revolutions (ingnition stroke on cylinder 3)

The twin jet injects once every revolution (ignition stroke on cylinder 2 and 3)



What are the desired effects of pre turbo WI?

Lower the inlet tract temperature.

Increase the efficiency of the turbo. Lower the turbo exit temps to as close to isothermal compression as possible.

And of course, in cylinder detonation control.


Negative effects of WI

Decreased efficiency of the intercooler, over injecting can saturate the internal surface of the IC, to the extent that it has virtually no effect at all.

What im looking for

Consistantly low turbo exit temps
High IC efficiency
Lower than ambient throttle temps in the summer, but not less than (??) for the winter ((??) not sure what the lowest temp should be yet).
Maximum effect from the east amount of water injected.

Water Injection turned off:

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...6442Slide1.jpg


Single Jet set ups at fixed boost trigger @ 12/13 psi:

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...7185Slide1.jpg

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...1559Slide1.jpg

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...4624Slide1.jpg

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...7161Slide1.jpg

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...7938Slide1.jpg


Twin Jet set ups at fixed boost trigger @ 12/13 psi:

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...7734Slide1.jpg

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...8479Slide1.jpg

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...5904Slide1.jpg

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...7302Slide1.jpg

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...1588Slide1.jpg

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...7033Slide1.jpg


Twin jet set up using 0.4 and 0.5 Triggered @ 4, 7, 10, 13, 14 and 15 psi: I would have used a pair of 0.4, but i dont have a pair yet.


http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...6624Slide1.jpg

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...6631Slide1.jpg

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...7654Slide1.jpg

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...7592Slide1.jpg

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...6063Slide1.jpg

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...2996Slide1.jpg


Conclusion:

In my opinion, using a twin jet setup with the smallest jets possible and triggered at 4 psi gave the best results. I want to see 0 psi results.

I know most people say inject as late as possible, but these results would suggest otherwise. Im thinkin that when injecting late, the effects are felt after the event of high boost, too little (or too much) too late. Triggered early on using a system like 2d, the water is metered effectively from low to high rpms, as with the fuel, producing smoother transition in inlet tract temps.

I will continue too experiment now using twin 0.4's for winter and twin 0.5's or 0.6's in the summer.

I will measure differences in performance at different boost points using an accelerometer and post results.

Initiall experiments at 4 psi show no increase in lb - ft and a 2 or 3 drop in bhp, at WOT and 3/4 throttle opening.

Lower exhaust gas temps reduce the maximum turbo rpm's :?, but now the max boost setting can be increased :?

PuntoRex 21-11-2004 09:30 AM

I had the similar experiences about the trigger point.

Currently I use 1*0.5 at pre-turbo & 1* 0.6 at pre-TB, triggered at 10psi, max boost around 18~20psi.

I can be sure that the turbo spools up much more quickly in the 10~20psi region than the 0~10psi. Probably, that's the work done by water.

Which stops me make it earlier is the worse atomization in the low DC injection. I'm a little worrying about the larger droplets caused by this, especially pre-turbo.

Gelf 21-11-2004 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PuntoRex
I had the similar experiences about the trigger point.

Currently I use 1*0.5 at pre-turbo & 1* 0.6 at pre-TB, triggered at 10psi, max boost around 18~20psi.

I can be sure that the turbo spools up much more quickly in the 10~20psi region than the 0~10psi. Probably, that's the work done by water.

Which stops me make it earlier is the worse atomization in the low DC injection. I'm a little worrying about the larger droplets caused by this, especially pre-turbo.

Im not too sure what my water pressure is set at now, i need to get a couple of pressure gauges to monitor that both systems are working and set to the same pressure.

I ve noticed and i think it may have been yourself that said if the pressure is set to high the HSV starts to behave strangely, like the flow is being restricted.


I want to set mine to the highest permissable pressure to ensure good atomisation.

JohnA 21-11-2004 11:17 PM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Gelf
....What im looking for

Consistantly low turbo exit temps
High IC efficiency

These two are kinda mutually exclusive though:
The lower the turbo exit temps, the lower the efficiency of the intercooler.
This you can see clearly in your datalogs. The more water you inject, the lower the 'after turbo' temps, but the effect on 'throttle' temps is nowhere to be seen.
Single 0.4 jet @ 12psi resulted in similar throttle temps as both jets triggered at 4 psi (a lot more water in the latter case)

Quote:

Lower than ambient throttle temps in the summer, but not less than (??) for the winter ((??) not sure what the lowest temp should be yet).
The ideal intake temp at the throttle is around 40C mate, certainly no less than 30C
Quote:

Maximum effect from the east amount of water injected.
In that case from your graphs I'd say 0.4 jet at 13psi

Quote:

In my opinion, using a twin jet setup with the smallest jets possible and triggered at 4 psi gave the best results. I want to see 0 psi results.
I don't know how you reached this conclusion.
In any case, intake temps are not the whole story, especially if they max at 30C without WI :wink:
To me it looks like your engine setup at these ambient temps needs no W.I. for lowering intake temps.

It could be a different story if power is measured with different jets, while you run higher boost pressures. That would mainly reflect the advantages of in-cylinder cooling, which I'd think would be far more important than chargecooling in the winter.

Very interesting post, by the way.:cool:

Gelf 22-11-2004 01:42 AM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
I knew this was going to be controversial :lol:
Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnA
Quote:

Originally Posted by Gelf
In my opinion, using a twin jet setup with the smallest jets possible and triggered at 4 psi gave the best results. I want to see 0 psi results.

I don't know how you reached this conclusion.

I'll try to explain, i said

What im looking for (a combination of things)

Consistantly low turbo exit temps

Comparisons between no WI, 0.4 @ 13 psi and 0.4 and 0.5 @ 4 psi.
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...9203Slide1.jpg
I think the 0.4 and 0.5 jets @ 4 psi does just that when compared to no water injection and the single 0.4 jet @ 13 psi.



High IC efficiency Maybe i should have said highest efficiency possible from lower turbo exit temps.

Comparisons between no WI, 0.4 @ 13 psi and 0.4 and 0.5 @ 4 psi.
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...1057Slide1.jpg
The 0.4 and 0.5 jets @ 4 psi generally showed the lowest IC exit temp (to be expected), while the 0.4 @ 13 psi faired worse than no WI.



Lower than ambient throttle temps in the summer, but not less than (??) for the winter ((??) not sure what the lowest temp should be yet).

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnA
The ideal intake temp at the throttle is around 40C mate, certainly no less than 30C

Comparisons between no WI, 0.4 @ 13 psi and 0.4 and 0.5 @ 4 psi.
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...9133Slide1.jpg
Granted, on this comparison both the 0.4 @ 13 psi and 0.4 and 0.5 @ 4 psi had similar results on occasions, but the 0.4 @ 13 psi showed temps going much lower, dipping as low as - 7 C. No WI wins this time, but the 0.4 @ 13 psi faired the worst.


Maximum effect from the east amount of water injected.

The 0.4 and 0.5 @ 4 psi does use more water than the 0.4 @ 13 psi, but in my opinion gives the best result when all things are considered. Expescially if your considering removing the IC all together.



Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnA
In any case, intake temps are not the whole story, especially if they max at 30C without WI
To me it looks like your engine setup at these ambient temps needs no W.I. for lowering intake temps.

I agree on this point, but im trying to set up before i get boost remapped. If i have WI set up, the RR operator may push the boost envolope a bit further.



Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnA
It could be a different story if power is measured with different jets, while you run higher boost pressures. That would mainly reflect the advantages of in-cylinder cooling, which I'd think would be far more important than chargecooling in the winter.

I agree and will do so once boost has been remapped.



Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnA
Very interesting post, by the way.

Thanks, its good to have someone to debate with :D

JohnA 22-11-2004 09:42 PM

Remember that intake temps consistently below 20C at the throttle will rob you of power. If that is true under boost as well, then you're compromising the engine's efficiency.

Older car designs used to have the air intake close to the exhaust manifold on purpose. Fuel injection can produce rich enough mixtures to make this a practice of the past, but the reality is still that cold manifold and cylinders damage atomisation.

Of course if you're thinking of ditching the intercooler (a brave idea!) then injecting at 4-5psi is a must.

keep up the good work! :D

masterp2 27-11-2004 10:36 PM

WOW! Excellent work!

Totally impressed.

I am getting set to inject a v-8 duramax turbo-diesel with WI, also pre-turbo and post-CAC (charge air cooler, IC, sorry about the language). This is a workhorse vehicle in need of supplemental cooling in extreme conditions.

Your charts will be helpful. I have set out to use a modulated 1st stage for water savings and activate the full 2nd performance stage with a throttle switch. The modulated 1st stage might consist of 1 .3 nozzle pre-turbo, and (2) .3 nozzles post CAC (or just post CAC nozzles). The performance 2nd stage might be 2 additional .3's pre-turbo.


thoughts?

Thank you for this research.

Gelf 29-11-2004 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by masterp2
WOW! Excellent work!

Totally impressed.

I am getting set to inject a v-8 duramax turbo-diesel with WI, also pre-turbo and post-CAC (charge air cooler, IC, sorry about the language). This is a workhorse vehicle in need of supplemental cooling in extreme conditions.

Your charts will be helpful. I have set out to use a modulated 1st stage for water savings and activate the full 2nd performance stage with a throttle switch. The modulated 1st stage might consist of 1 .3 nozzle pre-turbo, and (2) .3 nozzles post CAC (or just post CAC nozzles). The performance 2nd stage might be 2 additional .3's pre-turbo.


thoughts?

Thank you for this research.

Thanks :D

I think a rpm switch and/or throttle position switch is a good idea, to restrict low boost, low rpm injecting when the size of the water droplets could prove to be too large.

masterp2 07-07-2007 08:04 PM

its been 3 years!

I thought I would add something that might revive this thread. It is specifically relating to observance of increasing CAC out temps with WI, and then subsequent lowering of charge temp at the the throttle location. It occured to me, in most cases with no WI, that these temps will be almost identical at all times. Only transport occurs from the CAC outlet to the throttle, no air "treatment". There is probably a modest pressure reduction.

It has been widely stated "CAC efficiency drops with WI". I agree, but I don't think it expalins what is observed, ever increasing CAC out temps with increasing water flow rate. I believe what you are seeing is the endothermic affect of vapor condensing in the CAC. This would have the opposite effect of evaporation, a heat up effect.

So why is throttle plate temp dropping past the CAC out? Pressure drop. Lower pressure is experienced the further downstream. And there is re-evaporation dropping the temp.

whatchya think?

Richard L 08-07-2007 08:38 AM

This is such a good thread, I think it has to be a sticky.

SteveR32GTR 26-10-2009 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnA
Remember that intake temps consistently below 20C at the throttle will rob you of power. If that is true under boost as well, then you're compromising the engine's efficiency.

interesting. is that 100% fact even with forced induction?

on various cars ive had i always fit the charge temp sensor at the throttle and the car seemed to go better the colder the temps were, even way below 20degC on some stupidly cold nights (and very good IC/WI setup, lol).

id almost be inclined to say thats true in n/a form where you havent got boost pressure messing with the fuel/air mix, but on turbo cars?

forcefed86 25-02-2010 07:59 PM

Great thread! What are the size units for the nozzles being used?

LPH?

RICE RACING 25-02-2010 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveR32GTR
Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnA
Remember that intake temps consistently below 20C at the throttle will rob you of power. If that is true under boost as well, then you're compromising the engine's efficiency.

interesting. is that 100% fact even with forced induction?

on various cars ive had i always fit the charge temp sensor at the throttle and the car seemed to go better the colder the temps were, even way below 20degC on some stupidly cold nights (and very good IC/WI setup, lol).

id almost be inclined to say thats true in n/a form where you havent got boost pressure messing with the fuel/air mix, but on turbo cars?

Have to agree, I have never seen a car go worse with less than 20dec C IAT.

I have in my collection of reports on WI testing one specific one that compares 70 dec C, 37 deg C, and 10 deg C IAT at fixed AFR of 10.57:1 and 11.11:1 with water to fuel ratios of 0, 0.2, 0.4, and 0.6 by mass. The colder the IAT the more power the engine put out, the only time the output did not correlate was with richer mixtures & WI activated at higher ratio's all other cases engine power went up. Boost pressures tested were up to 22psi gauge and tuning to detonation limit via boost pressure increase only (not AFR or timing).

1995gsx20g 09-03-2010 04:07 AM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
correct me if i am wrong but..
i feel the need for intakes for older mainly carbureted engines to be close to the exhaust manifolds was mainly due to issues with atomization during a cold motor while warming up.

but i also agree with the fact that intake temps below 20c does not hurt efficiency of the motor under boost because of the fact that the engine is already up to operating temps so even if the air is below 20c the engine will certainly will bring those temps up by the time the fuel is injected, post throttle body.

st165 22-05-2010 04:06 AM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
Very interesting, but i don't understand something on the graph legend. where is the after WI temperature taken from?

Following your testing, would you say that twin 0.4 jet can replace an fmic if spraying from 4psi (0psi?)

Thank you

GOFAST 05-07-2014 07:54 PM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
is there anyone here that drives an daily car with pre turbo WMI ?
I consider using a single 0.6 nozzle.
and a lager one after de i.c.

how long did your turbo last ?

I drive at 29psi full boost (diesel) does that have any down sites to this story.

HYDE16 23-11-2014 12:25 AM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
I've read all 50 pages, legitimately, condensing the main points to determine my own post-MAF setup and testing.

I've read here that for pre-turbo jets which can only be installed further upstream (post-MAF) and not at the compressor based on OEM turbo housings should be installed to spray against the direction of oncoming air post MAF to atomize most effectively (basically spraying at the back of the MAF housings the incoming air breaks up the fluid better).

Based on my VW GTI's engine layout and more specifically the intake layout, I've been studying the air velocity within a 90 degree bend (the bend leading to the horizontal intake pipe running across the back of the engine (from the black MAF housing to the beginning of the long straight).

VW GTI Intake layout:
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5602/...8c615c5c_z.jpg

This video shows in yellow the highest velocity stream which would help atomize any water meth spraying inside of this intake pipe:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OvprEu-yH-A

Based on the video example alone, should I install the jet at the top of the horizontal pipe to spray against (into) the yellow stream? Or at the bottom of the pipe to spray into (with) the yellow stream?

When people place jets within the intake tract, are they accounting for flow diagrams or streams?

rotrex 30-12-2015 09:45 AM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
Having done some experiments with pre compressor injection last summer and fall, I can add a little to this.
Rotrex C30-94, jets tried: Aquamist 0.3 and 0.5mm. Mix 50:50 water methanol by weight.
IAT is measured after a water cooled charge cooler half way before entering the intake plenum. Throttle body is before the SC. Boost is 0.83 bar at 7000 rpm.
There is almost no influence on boost. At least nothing I can distinguish from effects of ambient temperatures. So all constant within a few percent.
The air temperatures drop as you increase jet size. Going from 0.3 to 0.5 mm introduced IAT fluctuation that got worse as ambient temps were lower. The sudden nature of those drops, you can see this effect also in the original data plots of this threat, can in my opinion be attributed to condensation in the charge cooler. The big droplets hits the IAT sensor, it has a little frame around it, evaporate and cool it down. Once the droplet is gone, it heat up to the air temp again. The fluctuations go worse as ambient temperatures dropped and as jet size increased. You feel the car modulate its acceleration as the ignition timing was advanced and pulled accelerating though a high gear due to the ignition air temperature corrections. The data logs show only some of the fluctuations, but not all of them compared to the felt fluctuations. The data rate recorded on the PC is too low.
To confirm, I removed the correction and the feelable effect was gone, but the log stills shows the fluctuations. On a 40C ambient day last summer, there were virtually no fluctuations a served with IATs as has 70C.

The observation of the original poster was that the throttle plate temp vs CC output temperatures dropped as flow increases. This is clearly a indication of evaporation.
At 50C turbo exit temperatures, much of the water and part of the methanol are likely still in the liquid phase, the charge cooler condenses the stuff further.
This big droplets collide with the wall at any bend or any obstacle, and cool is via evaporation. Unfortunalty, due to this effect, little of the spray arrives in the cylinder and mist.
During a rebuild with direct port jets on top of u-turn plenum runners. I could see the traces of the water stream on the front part of the combustion chamber and piston tops. These areas were light brown vs black.
Since moving the direct port jets on top of the plenum, but right behind the fuel injectors in the flat section, I needed to add more ignition advance. A clear sign that more mix effectively arrived in the combustion chamber as mist and not a fluid stream.

Once someone goes to significantly higher boost levels, the corresponding turbo exit temps of well above 100C or even 150C will evaporate much more fluid thrown at it. Riceracers setup is a good example. Condensation in the chagre cooler will still be present, but to a lesser degree.

Overall my little 0.3mm jet used now drops the IATs a tad, but the main work is done by now 4x 0.4mm c-type (150 ml/min) direct port jets.

parmas 31-12-2015 09:56 AM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by rotrex (Post 22044)
Having done some experiments with pre compressor injection last summer and fall, I can add a little to this.
Rotrex C30-94, jets tried: Aquamist 0.3 and 0.5mm. Mix 50:50 water methanol by weight.
IAT is measured after a water cooled charge cooler half way before entering the intake plenum. Throttle body is before the SC. Boost is 0.83 bar at 7000 rpm.
There is almost no influence on boost. At least nothing I can distinguish from effects of ambient temperatures. So all constant within a few percent.
The air temperatures drop as you increase jet size. Going from 0.3 to 0.5 mm introduced IAT fluctuation that got worse as ambient temps were lower. The sudden nature of those drops, you can see this effect also in the original data plots of this threat, can in my opinion be attributed to condensation in the charge cooler. The big droplets hits the IAT sensor, it has a little frame around it, evaporate and cool it down. Once the droplet is gone, it heat up to the air temp again. The fluctuations go worse as ambient temperatures dropped and as jet size increased. You feel the car modulate its acceleration as the ignition timing was advanced and pulled accelerating though a high gear due to the ignition air temperature corrections. The data logs show only some of the fluctuations, but not all of them compared to the felt fluctuations. The data rate recorded on the PC is too low.
To confirm, I removed the correction and the feelable effect was gone, but the log stills shows the fluctuations. On a 40C ambient day last summer, there were virtually no fluctuations a served with IATs as has 70C.

The observation of the original poster was that the throttle plate temp vs CC output temperatures dropped as flow increases. This is clearly a indication of evaporation.
At 50C turbo exit temperatures, much of the water and part of the methanol are likely still in the liquid phase, the charge cooler condenses the stuff further.
This big droplets collide with the wall at any bend or any obstacle, and cool is via evaporation. Unfortunalty, due to this effect, little of the spray arrives in the cylinder and mist.
During a rebuild with direct port jets on top of u-turn plenum runners. I could see the traces of the water stream on the front part of the combustion chamber and piston tops. These areas were light brown vs black.
Since moving the direct port jets on top of the plenum, but right behind the fuel injectors in the flat section, I needed to add more ignition advance. A clear sign that more mix effectively arrived in the combustion chamber as mist and not a fluid stream.

Once someone goes to significantly higher boost levels, the corresponding turbo exit temps of well above 100C or even 150C will evaporate much more fluid thrown at it. Riceracers setup is a good example. Condensation in the chagre cooler will still be present, but to a lesser degree.

Overall my little 0.3mm jet used now drops the IATs a tad, but the main work is done by now 4x 0.4mm c-type (150 ml/min) direct port jets.

Thanks for your info and detailed testing Rotrex.

My setup is currently running with 350cc PRE-Turbo jet and 350cc Post-Turbo jet without intercooler pushing 1.4Bar with a GT28 in a 1.5L engine.

Using 50/50 Water/Meth mix in an ambient temp of 20DegC injecting at 2psi gradually full injection 700cc at 10psi was able to get Maximum temps of High40DegC @ High6Krpm @ 1.4Bar (21psi) reducing drastically till 15DegC during engine braking.

From experience till now, the more fluid I feed it, the more ignition timing the engine wanted, the more power/torque accelaration it felt.

Currently using 4x330cc = 1320cc rated at 43.5psi.
Pressing 59psi Fuel Pressure @ 0psi = 384cc x 4 = 1536cc
Pressing 59psi Fuel Pressure + 21 Boost Presure = 448cc x 4 = 1792cc
Injector duty @ 21psi is about 65% = 1165cc

700cc Water_Meth (DIV by) 1165cc Fuel X (100%) = 60% = 6:10 Ratio Water/Meth - Fuel

Flr Power 01-01-2016 02:46 AM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by rotrex (Post 22044)
Having done some experiments with pre compressor injection last summer and fall, I can add a little to this.
Rotrex C30-94, jets tried: Aquamist 0.3 and 0.5mm. Mix 50:50 water methanol by weight.
IAT is measured after a water cooled charge cooler half way before entering the intake plenum. Throttle body is before the SC. Boost is 0.83 bar at 7000 rpm.
There is almost no influence on boost. At least nothing I can distinguish from effects of ambient temperatures. So all constant within a few percent.
The air temperatures drop as you increase jet size. Going from 0.3 to 0.5 mm introduced IAT fluctuation that got worse as ambient temps were lower. The sudden nature of those drops, you can see this effect also in the original data plots of this threat, can in my opinion be attributed to condensation in the charge cooler. The big droplets hits the IAT sensor, it has a little frame around it, evaporate and cool it down. Once the droplet is gone, it heat up to the air temp again. The fluctuations go worse as ambient temperatures dropped and as jet size increased. You feel the car modulate its acceleration as the ignition timing was advanced and pulled accelerating though a high gear due to the ignition air temperature corrections. The data logs show only some of the fluctuations, but not all of them compared to the felt fluctuations. The data rate recorded on the PC is too low.
To confirm, I removed the correction and the feelable effect was gone, but the log stills shows the fluctuations. On a 40C ambient day last summer, there were virtually no fluctuations a served with IATs as has 70C.

The observation of the original poster was that the throttle plate temp vs CC output temperatures dropped as flow increases. This is clearly a indication of evaporation.
At 50C turbo exit temperatures, much of the water and part of the methanol are likely still in the liquid phase, the charge cooler condenses the stuff further.
This big droplets collide with the wall at any bend or any obstacle, and cool is via evaporation. Unfortunately, due to this effect, little of the spray arrives in the cylinder and mist.
During a rebuild with direct port jets on top of u-turn plenum runners. I could see the traces of the water stream on the front part of the combustion chamber and piston tops. These areas were light brown vs black.
Since moving the direct port jets on top of the plenum, but right behind the fuel injectors in the flat section, I needed to add more ignition advance. A clear sign that more mix effectively arrived in the combustion chamber as mist and not a fluid stream.

Once someone goes to significantly higher boost levels, the corresponding turbo exit temps of well above 100C or even 150C will evaporate much more fluid thrown at it. Riceracers setup is a good example. Condensation in the charge cooler will still be present, but to a lesser degree.

Overall my little 0.3mm jet used now drops the IATs a tad, but the main work is done by now 4x 0.4mm c-type (150 ml/min) direct port jets.

You are running the perfect setup in my opinion. How much power is it making?

rotrex 01-01-2016 09:29 AM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
I don't know. Never put it on a Dyno. The Rover K, 1.8l, is probably in the 250HP range.
It is still knock limited. I believe I know why. Just currently no time taking the head off and in a S1 Elise this is plenty fast, to the degree I don't bother.

Flr Power 01-01-2016 06:20 PM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
Still knock limited? But never been on a dyno...
Do you think you could have went past MBT ignition?

rotrex 01-01-2016 08:04 PM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
don't think so. I gain power with every degree advance I add.
We talk 14 deg of advance here with plenty of water/meth and 102 octane fuel on a 4 valve pent roof engine. Without water / meth I am stuck at about 10 degrees.
I map myself. I know how power develops as I advance ignition.
I also have a J&S safeguard knock control system with a display. Beside this system, knock is also easily audible in a Elise. With both I can map it right to the knock limit myself and observe changes by butt and by data logging.
Power changes are also easy to feel as the car weights less than 800kg.

I have build the engine with a 1mm copper shim to protect the cylinder ahead against indentation. Rover K heads tend to turn soft over time in high power mid engined applications, especially around the exhaust valve area. This is caused by insufficient coolant flow at idle and low revs after a high load situation.The MLS head gasket seals with a very sharp edge against the hardened alloy cylinder head.
I installed a electric water pump and controller to manage the heat in low rev and idle situations. Works a treat.

Thing with the shim is that I forgot to chamfer the lower edge of the cylinder bore of the shim. I had specified the shim with a inner bore diameter of 80mm, same a cylinder bore diameter to distribute forces uniformly. the firer ring has a diameter of about 83mm. Normally the shim also has a bore of 83mm. This puts the lower edge of the shim in the quench zone near the head gasket seal area.
I believe this exposed edge together with the reduced squish is responsible for the tendency to knock.
To fix this I need to replace the head gasket with a N-series head gasket, it employs a flat seal area with a larger surface, and remove the shim. that's it. Compression will still be a reasonable 9.2:1.
It is a full day of work. I just don't have the time or motivation to do it in the moment as the car is plenty fast as is.

https://youtu.be/onYUHH0muNc?t=25
To put it in perspective: The yellow Elise in front of me is powered by a supercharged Honda K20A2 engine from a Civic Type R with 280HP. On the Radiation straight I just left in it 5th gear.

parmas 02-01-2016 09:57 AM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by rotrex (Post 22061)
don't think so. I gain power with every degree advance I add.
We talk 14 deg of advance here with plenty of water/meth and 102 octane fuel on a 4 valve pent roof engine. Without water / meth I am stuck at about 10 degrees.

Why are you using racing fuel as base fuel? I use pump fuel 92 octane with the amounts of WM50 I mentioned earlie theoritically rated at 112-117octane on boost.

I map myself. I know how power develops as I advance ignition.
I also have a J&S safeguard knock control system with a display. Beside this system, knock is also easily audible in a Elise. With both I can map it right to the knock limit myself and observe changes by butt and by data logging.
Power changes are also easy to feel as the car weights less than 800kg.

I tune myself aswell and I can confirm that I have the same situation you have regarding advance and power. The "more" advance you feed it the more it pushes hard, at least 20deg over "stock" seems insanely too much. Also I run it insanely lean on boost, average of 15AFR from 1-4psi, Low 14AFR from 4-16psi, High 13AFR from 17-21psi above 6Krpm

Curious what ecu are you using (mine is Haltech PS1000) and if you mind throwing a picture of the plug burn?



I have build the engine with a 1mm copper shim to protect the cylinder ahead against indentation. Rover K heads tend to turn soft over time in high power mid engined applications, especially around the exhaust valve area. This is caused by insufficient coolant flow at idle and low revs after a high load situation.The MLS head gasket seals with a very sharp edge against the hardened alloy cylinder head.
I installed a electric water pump and controller to manage the heat in low rev and idle situations. Works a treat.

Thing with the shim is that I forgot to chamfer the lower edge of the cylinder bore of the shim. I had specified the shim with a inner bore diameter of 80mm, same a cylinder bore diameter to distribute forces uniformly. the firer ring has a diameter of about 83mm. Normally the shim also has a bore of 83mm. This puts the lower edge of the shim in the quench zone near the head gasket seal area.
I believe this exposed edge together with the reduced squish is responsible for the tendency to knock.
To fix this I need to replace the head gasket with a N-series head gasket, it employs a flat seal area with a larger surface, and remove the shim. that's it. Compression will still be a reasonable 9.2:1.
It is a full day of work. I just don't have the time or motivation to do it in the moment as the car is plenty fast as is.

https://youtu.be/onYUHH0muNc?t=25
To put it in perspective: The yellow Elise in front of me is powered by a supercharged Honda K20A2 engine from a Civic Type R with 280HP. On the Radiation straight I just left in it 5th gear.

Nice video :)

rotrex 02-01-2016 10:45 AM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
In Germany we use RON ratings for fuel. MOst stations sell 98 RON (94 US) Octane as the highest, but ARAL/BP sell 102 Octane fuel almost everywhere for 6 cents extra a liter.
102 Octane RON corresponds to a US 98. I use no race fuel. It is just a special pump fuel. Shells offers a 100 Octane, too It is regular pump stuff over here.
Stock timing of this engine naturally aspirated is more in the range of 30 to 32 deg ignition advance.
The ECU I use is a Emerald K3 from the UK connected to a STACK wideband lambda meter.
I run closed loop fueling at all times, even under boost.

I have to look for plug pictures, but they have more of a "tan" compared to yours.
Tried. An AFR of 13 with 0.6 bars of boost. Worked well, but increased thermal load on track.At 0.8 bar running leaner just makes it more prone to knock and I have to pull timing and I lose power.

parmas 02-01-2016 07:13 PM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by rotrex (Post 22065)
In Germany we use RON ratings for fuel. MOst stations sell 98 RON (94 US) Octane as the highest, but ARAL/BP sell 102 Octane fuel almost everywhere for 6 cents extra a liter.
102 Octane RON corresponds to a US 98. I use no race fuel. It is just a special pump fuel. Shells offers a 100 Octane, too It is regular pump stuff over here.
Stock timing of this engine naturally aspirated is more in the range of 30 to 32 deg ignition advance.
The ECU I use is a Emerald K3 from the UK connected to a STACK wideband lambda meter.
I run closed loop fueling at all times, even under boost.

I have to look for plug pictures, but they have more of a "tan" compared to yours.
Tried. An AFR of 13 with 0.6 bars of boost. Worked well, but increased thermal load on track.At 0.8 bar running leaner just makes it more prone to knock and I have to pull timing and I lose power.

Do you have an analyzer to check octane or methanol? Could be a cause...

I run high 40s igntion advance with lean mixtures 14AFR with 1.4Bar boost 8.5:1 compression.

Stock timing is high 20s on aspirated 10.5:1 compression.

Here is the plug with threading removed at the above mentioned conditions. This plug was used almost every week with high load during this summer.

Flr Power 02-01-2016 07:51 PM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
parmas, Why do you run it so lean?
You are missing some power by running it so lean...

parmas 02-01-2016 09:05 PM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Flr Power (Post 22068)
parmas, Why do you run it so lean?
You are missing some power by running it so lean...

Leaning actually made the turbo spool better = boost earlier = better VE from 2.5Krpm till 5Krpm resulting in a better accelaration. Also oil/fuel contamination was reduced and econmy was increased.... so why not?

Insanely enough I tried 15-16AFR at low boost (1-6psi) but failed as the engine was actually loosing power then.

After 6Krpm the engine likes 13.8AFR for the best values.. leaner or richer will loose power

Flr Power 02-01-2016 09:17 PM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
Are you sure you're Wideband is accurate?
How did you measure the power change with different AFR?

rotrex 03-01-2016 12:12 AM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
Are you sure your reference position for ignition timing is right?
Any modern engine won't take 40 deg timing at anything but low load.
Typical numbers for NA engines past 3000 rpm and WOT are 30 to 34 deg.
Add boost and numbers drop from there.
The methanol I use is fuel for fuel cells and of very high purity. Fuel is from a major oil company (BP), sold in their stations from the pump and should not vary that much. It is used as the standard fuel in the DTM racing series in Germay. I won't test it. Not worth the trouble and the expense. It is not sold in barrels in a shop.

The timing numbers I run are not that uncommon. The methanol water injection allows for an extra 5 deg of timing. Part of this advance is to compensate for the slower burn speed.
A similar engine, but with a turbo without meth water, runs 14 deg of advance at 15 PSI of boost without water.

parmas 03-01-2016 12:32 AM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Flr Power (Post 22070)
Are you sure you're Wideband is accurate?

I have two wideband sensors. One wired directly to the haltech ecu and another independent AEM wideband gauge. Both showing same readings.

How did you measure the power change with different AFR?

I do not have a dyno neither have the money to tune it on a dyno for every upgrade I made to the setup. I tune on the mainly on street and adjust for the grip on track.

I measure power by time vs speed on 4th gear.

Full throttle from 2Krpm and check how much time it got to same rev limiter or 140km.

Also power and torque is easily felt on a small car like a yaris


,,,,,,,,,,

parmas 03-01-2016 12:38 AM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by rotrex (Post 22071)
Are you sure your reference position for ignition timing is right?



Any modern engine won't take 40 deg timing at anything but low load.
Typical numbers for NA engines past 3000 rpm and WOT are 30 to 34 deg.
Add boost and numbers drop from there.
The methanol I use is fuel for fuel cells and of very high purity. Fuel is from a major oil company (BP), sold in their stations from the pump and should not vary that much. It is used as the standard fuel in the DTM racing series in Germay. I won't test it. Not worth the trouble and the expense. It is not sold in barrels in a shop.

The timing numbers I run are not that uncommon. The methanol water injection allows for an extra 5 deg of timing. Part of this advance is to compensate for the slower burn speed.
A similar engine, but with a turbo without meth water, runs 14 deg of advance at 15 PSI of boost without water.

I asked this question myself many times and to other people with substantial knowledge. The engine is surely timed right. If you notice the plug's electrode you could notice that the engine is actually running lots of advance

Flr Power 03-01-2016 02:40 AM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
parmas, Did you ever check your timing for drift at high rpm with a timing light?

Also I just realized you said you inject at 60% water/meth fuel ratio. I have only tuned to about 30% ratio so you are in a different league.

I remember when you used to spray very little and now you spray a lot. Good work by the way!

parmas 03-01-2016 09:20 AM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Flr Power (Post 22074)
parmas, Did you ever check your timing for drift at high rpm with a timing light?

I checked it for very few seconds on 4Krpm

Also I just realized you said you inject at 60% water/meth fuel ratio. I have only tuned to about 30% ratio so you are in a different league.

You are right 60% WM50. The injection was gradually increased by trial and error beginning from as small as 10% until 60% which took about 2 years testing and tuning.

I am sure the mixture could handle more WM50 but there are issues I have to overcome first. I have two nozzles 350cc. The pre-turbo is set to inject later than the post turbo by installing a pressure relief valve greater than the post turbo one. Still since I inject very early the engine bogs a bit at low rpm / low boost and high gear.
Reducing injection will make the air temperature fire up accordingly.



I remember when you used to spray very little and now you spray a lot. Good work by the way!

...........

rotrex 03-01-2016 11:55 AM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
At such high water to fuel ratios and a lean mix, the ignition timing numbers look more feasible. I won't use that much mix as otherwise fluid usage on track would become too high. I only run a 1 gallon tank.
Fast Yaris. I liked it.

Are you using a PWM valve to adjust flow over rpm/boost?
I control flow via a aquamist HSV and a separate map in the ECU.

djfourmoney 03-08-2016 12:29 AM

Re: Pre Turbo Injection - How Much and When to Inject
 
I am going to bump this thread because I am running pre-turbo but not with an Aquamist system.

I choose AEM because 99% of the time WMI will be used is WOT and I'm not interesting in pulling base fuel and replace it with methanol via the water injection system.

I also choose this configuration because I want to get more out of the stock turbocharger.

Starting with the smallest included nozzle (250cc/min), I wasn't sure if it was working like it should. Turns out it did work but eventually some air got caught in the system and it stopped pumping water. I had to undo lines on both sides of the pump to get it primed again and the water flowing.

Logged a short 4th gear pull and sent it to my tuner. Apparently there was enough of a change that he modified my tune. I had changed the nozzle to the middle one included in the AEM system (500 cc/min).

Right now I have inlet temps 6 degrees over ambient though that log was taken well into the evening as ambient started to drop from a mid day high of around 97 (F).

This is only the beginning of what's the come.


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