Good post, I have always said that these do not run at 300psi no matter what some kit makers might claim. Here are our new pumps numbers for pressure with a check vavle in place but not installed or under boost.

I will have to disagree with them with saying these cannot hit 200psi at 12v no but these will take up to 15v with no problem.

Test conducted with a snubbed 3" Glycerin-Filled Gauge with NIST Certificate. Keeps things nice and smooth with no guessing on accuarcy.

12-30VDC Power supply at 13.25 volts. All numbers rounded down to the nearest multiple of 5.

M2 230psi
M3 225psi
M4 215psi
M5 190psi
M7 180psi
M10 170psi
M12 Not tested (didnt have one handy here on Guam)
M14 155 psi

Of course you would have to subtract the boost against the head of the nozzle for final figures. Our check valve is 16psi cracking pressure.

oh my god, it did it again :mad: leaked complete tank into turbo, how nice is to see this, Im give up and disconnected pre turbo nozzle. And this time it was with checkvalve in opposite direction (ie allways closed, as I temporary disabled pre turbo nozzle for testing). It look like sealing problem of checkvalve, made me really ugly :twisted:

If you add three checkvalves you will loose 3x checkvalve pressure from the line pressure.

Time to use a solenoid valve. What type of checkvalve is it, is it from McMasterCarr?

My last setup was only with 2 checkvalves, as I buy new one in meantime, so bin 3rd checkvalve. All checkvalves was from coolingmist, brass type....Youre right, time for solenoid....

If you use threecheckvalbe inlien, you wil gert 66psi pressure drop for sure.

See this video lnk:
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gallery/abner/set1.jpg0

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gallery/abner/p-cv.html

Hi all
Finally, 3rd checkvalve failed, in this case complete o ring seal just fall out of it...I installed solenoid in meantime, just want to tell other something about quality and safe of these checkvalves...

Can you post a picture of those checkvalves?

Checkvalve is only as good as the seal and seat being re-aligned properly after opening. Spring rate/orifice ratio is relatively low compared to a solenoid valve.

Which coolingmist system do you have, it is not easy to splice in a solenoid valve electrically.

they are same like you can see here:
http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmain.aspx?pid=QBRCV01

Im sorry but there is nothing to photo at my checkvalve, just internal o ring (seal) felt off of it. Previous checkvalves have som problems with sealing, probably also with rubber o ring. It looks like this o ring is pushed out of it seat after time....

I have basic WI kit (just pump, pressure switch, nozzles), including solenoid into circuit tooks me 5 minutes, really nothing hard about it...Solenoid is acutated directly by switched pump voltage, works fine...

I was only concern about the solenoid valve connection if you have their varycool system. No probelm with your boost switched system at all.