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RICESP Water Injected RX7
UPDATE 2022
http://www.riceracing.com.au/rides.htm http://www.riceracing.com.au/water-injection.htm http://www.riceracing.com.au/Donmega_Waterinjection.htm Alright folks, you know who I am, the squirting master, the squirting king, squirting everything ! This thread is about my own experience with water injection, detailing many versions of it across all kinds of engines/cars. The first is just looking at a basic pneumatic/electronic based stand alone system. Working back from the end of this thread you will see the current Aquamist products and Syvecs/Life Racing electronics. There is something for everyone to read in here to cover most popular engine types (reciprocating and rotary). As second half of 2020 onwards I am working on the latest generation of WI system which will be fully sequential of my own design and all controlled via ECU/PDU/Dash combination, as later generations are implemented the older stuff will go up here as a 100% free resource to help others separate shit from clay, none of the content is 'sponsored' or 'paid for' by a manufacturer and only the better system knowledge is put up. Last count I have accumulated over 135 engineering papers on this topic alone from 1913 to 2020, allot of peer shared results and my own humble developments. This you wont find on a Goolag search or on Arsebook! or Gagtube channel, so as flava flave famously said 'don't believe the hype' I have helped many people discover the power of water injection for the last 30+ years, starting from the same basic spot as anyone who has wanted to find the best answers to making a street or race car more reliable and durable. I hope that these posts are of use to people who want to learn and apply the knowledge for themselves. It's the single best part of internal combustion that I have worked with, love it as much today as I did back in 1995 when I first applied it seriously for my own car/s. If anyone wants help, then feel free to post up here or get in touch with me. Water Injection is reaching a level of popularity now that it truly has always deserved, despite the best miss information efforts from the haters one thing stands, it has been and always will be the ultimate way to produce power reliably and allow it for far longer too. Get On It ! Beware of FAKE NEWS !!! So many years of reading now seeing this rubbish, we just feel it is necessary to debunk this... FACT V FICTION ! https://youtu.be/80AcdZ7WdgI https://i.imgur.com/JvyWBWJ.jpg |
Peter, great pictures - post more if you can, I love those intricate mechanical work.
One day, people will believe in WI is the only way to make big power. Problem is lack of ignition power on ordinary set up. I hav elittle control over what people using our system on. It seems alcohol is the favour of the year. |
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In regards to the Ignition here in my home country no one uses Alcohol !, I suppose I have had a massive influence in this regard and led by example and shown people how its done (on my own cars and various customers cars), which is all they really want at the end of the day :) give them the key to the door and help them in the most important aspect (tuning and calibration of the WI system) and its an open and shut case on the merits of Water over anything else *including full race fuel set ups* :) The ignition is the single most important aspect in a high powered car, it makes the difference between you telling the motor what to do V's it dictating to you how and when and what it wants to run on lol, I simply copied this basic fact from the old WW2 boys who were using magneto and huge current and energy ignitions to run massive water to fuel ratio's, once I figured out that key element/restriction of normal ways of thinking today a whole new world in terms of power and reliability were open to me. Here is a picture of the CDI & COP systems current and burn time as measured on my pecoscope, it is very powerful ! http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/34/tr...frontrotor.jpg This is picoscope testing of my CDI system, for current flow, primary voltage, secondary burn time, number of spark restrikes.... works well even a newb with electricity like me can figure it out Burn time is roughly 420us or .4 milliseconds and there is 6 separate restrikes at 1000rpm over roughly 5 milliseconds per cycle. System pulls about 25 amps of first spark and 13 amps for the restrike sparks. http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/9273/rrcditest.jpg and testing of the ign video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BcLGr-iQ_Hw |
Some of the clowns on one web site I go on decided to photo shop me into the famous Team RX7SP that won this countries premier 12hr production endurance race against the worlds best sports car makers specials (911RSCS and BMW M3R Honda NSX, Nissan GTR, Ferrari F355 to mention but a few who tried and failed for 4 straight years to beat the Mazda RX7) The SP model was the last race special when most of the makers went all out to try and knock Mazda off for the title.............. THEY FAILED :oops: :cool:
http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr360/1000-08/sp.jpg Mazda Australia made only 25 of these SP race specials, Porsche made 100 world wide and BMW made the minimum 10 of there's... it is a very rare car. It is a derivative of the M1020 factory race special Mazda's performance arm were making but that department shut down before the car was released so allot of the factory developed parts went to the Australian market and the car was further optimized and perfected... the rest as they say is history Mazda 4 Porsche 0 :lol: http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/3433/chope.jpg |
The images are stunning. I hope people will appreciate the amount of thought and work involved in make a reliable racing car. No pain no gain - 100% truth.
Your turbo support bracket is the best I have seen, any reason why to have decided making it solid by not putting an expansion joint? The CDI ignition pack makes great power, you can almost see the second phase of the ionisation current after the big spike progressively using less energy on subsequent hits. You can almost uise this information to judge the quality of the burn. Those pictures are valuable and hope you are able to keep them on the hosting site for a long time to come. As soon as I have a moment, I will make back-up copies just in case. Please keep it updated. |
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The turbo bracket is always in tension from cold to hot so its reducing the amount of weight or load onto the manifold. < she has rod ends either side to take into account growth so its free to move. The exhaust has no expansion joint in the wastegate pipe since I calculated the lengths and though it could go without one, I kinda pinched that idea after seeing Rod Millens Toyota Tacoma and he did not run one lol, I had no room anyway for it. Appreciate the comments and offer to host pictures it flattering. I only have these images on imageshack so if you would like to back them up that would be great :) Will update more things *pictures* and some performance results when I get a chance 100%. Oh yeah she is my road car with full catalyst equipped exhaust, > Here is pics of new super high flow cat, and picture of std 4" metal substrate cat. To give you an idea I have measured 238rwkw on the std MS cat and no cat at all yielded 235rwkw! at same boost pressure. The new version is for 450rwkw region! has basically the same flow as 3.5" straight pipe in flow testing. http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/233...5smallscat.jpg http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/5...7smallscat.jpg http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/2...8smallscat.jpg http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/9...9smallscat.jpg http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/8...1smallscat.jpg |
Another great set of pictures.
I missed the rod ends, sorry. The turbo brackery is perferct. |
Hey Richard,
I posted this up on the peco users group, showing my injector current and voltage pattern, I am having some issues with my car at idle and odd function of the fuel injectors at 1000rpm and light cruise, its a FJO low impedance P&H driver... I think it is defective, let me know what you think b4 I rip this out and go to resistors. http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/270...ectordrive.jpg The actual measured injector lag time for 14v is more like 0.800 Milliseconds V's the ECU's drop down values of 0.550 milliseconds.. when I changed this value it helped the car a great deal on this idle and return to idle from free rev problem I was having... but something is not right in the injector pattern as it looks like it does not do the peak and hold part lol ! input appreciated :smile: |
You are right, the FJO didn't seem to switch to peak and hold at around ~4 A. I am not sure of the peak can only be triggered above two mS, even the current is allowed to creep pass the 4A threshold.
However, it shouldn't any affect on your idle and light cruise unless the injectors are over heating. If this is the case, it might create local vapuor lock. When you open your throttle, the higher fuel flow may take away the heat from the injector winding. |
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Do you think I should eliminate the FJO and go to good old resistors and see who things function? I just cant figure out why the engine wants to stop if I have spark and fuel and the injector opening timings are fully visible on the scope :? I always seem to come up with these odd ball problems. :eek: Here is what FJO had to say about the capture I gave them. Peter, The reason the injector current rises in a slope is because it is an inductor. Current through an inductor does not turn on/off instantly, that is the electrical properties of an inductor. This will also vary depending on the inductance and resistance of the injector as well as the supply voltage. The box is connected to the ground side of the injector and controls the current at that end so the voltage is irrelevant. However, you will see some voltage at the ground because there is always some ground resistance. With 4A and 1.4v you have a ground resistance of 0.35 ohms. This includes the ground resistance where the driver is grounded. The current measurement depends on how you are measuring it. The only accurate method is by using a fast response inductive pickup on the ground-side of a single injector. What is the injector pulse width during these random lean spikes? Technical Support ________________________________ FJO Racing Products Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada mailto:techsupport@fjoracing.com http://www.fjoracing.com ph: 204-254-5623 ext 3 fax:204-257-3190 ________________________________________ |
First of all, mimimise the ground resistance and inductance by using a thicker or shorter gauge wire. Remeasure the wave again by putting the pico probes between the FJO's wire ends.
I still don't understand why the peak and hold is not triggered. Can you ask FJO at what conditions does the "peak and hold" trigger. What is the coil resistance of your fuel injectors and are they paralleled up electrically? |
I have had a gut full of the FJO crap, started installing the resistors tonight and will not do anything else except eliminate the FJO and remeasure the injector pattern. < I am sure this thing is faulty! it is not performing as stated full stop and all they can come up with is an excuse with my measurement equipment :roll: *like obviously why is it pulling over 5amps! if its a 4A peak unit then holds at 1amp?*
Touch wood I will get it done tomorrow and hope this resolves my issues. I will post up the injector trace running the ECU manufacturers suggested resistor size (supplied by dealer I got ECU from). |
Can you measure the coil resistance of your injector for me, I can help selecting a suitable inline resistor for you.
When you remeasure, can you blip the throttle so that the trace goes beyond 2mS. If it still does't trigger, then we can say it is faulty unit. Be sure the probes are clipped to the wire end of FJO unit, there is no deny what you are seeing and recording. |
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Wish me luck tomorrow, my patience is running out after doing such a marathon job building this car :sad: On a positive note the WI is working well and I have used about 2 liters so far and by accident ran 20 psi boost :oops: due to a wrong setting on the boost controller :roll: but the 10.4:1 AFR and WI means she took it in her stride. I guess I should be thankful that my ECU drivers still work and my engine is in one piece since it looks like the FJO is faulty, will know if the problems magically disappear.when I test I take the injector plug off and use a pico 2pin bosch plug female/male and do the current clamp to it and voltage supply to the other, so its what is coming from the FJO output |
If you run one injector per FJO P&H channel, the coil resistance of your fuel injector is on the border line of 4A.
3 ohm draws: 4A at 12V, 4.6A at 13.8V 4.5ohm draws: 2.67A at 12V, 3.06A at 13.8V This could be the reason why the P&H is not triggering consistantly fo the 3 ohm injector, if the voltage is fluctuation between 12V to 13.8V. Depending on how you measured the current will give you false readings. The only way to read current accurately is by breaking one of the wires to the fuel injector and put the two probes to each of the cut wire. Ensure the PICO is not grounded or connected elsewhere. |
Here is "finished" engien bay pics :) I am glad this is over :smile:
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...5ricesp2-s.jpg http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/gall...6ricesp2-s.jpg |
Process of elmination, one step at a time is the best way forward.
You car is walking exhibition, it is so nice with all thise fabrication - I just wish people will appreciate just how much work is involved to arrive at this stage. As power tuning, allow the engine to do a few more easy miles, lety everything settle down. Water injection and CDi is a good combination. Please don't go too fast for big power. I will resize the picture for you if you don't mind, it is slightly bigger than most monitor can display. |
It's been a long time since I updated.
Decided to change the fuel injectors & eliminate all of the resistors and other devices, also re-engineered some fundamental settings and specifications of the fuel delivery, should have it tested any day now and will let you know how I go. |
Well I have had good results on the new fuel injectors (no resistors or P&H boxes anymore), car idles well and drives perfectly, I wanted to test the Stock Mazda ignition coils, lead set up and HKS amplifier (DLI) box and found it is far lower in capacity to the custom coil on plug full CDI system I originally made. It can only take less than half the water amount and the AFR needs to be set around 11.10:1 for it to reliably fire the mixture.
I am refitting the full CDI coil on plug system and will run the water injection system back up to its higher capacity after finding the limitation of the upgraded stock system. With testing so far on 10psi inlet boost pressure on low water flow I have air inlet temperatures that are consistently 5 to 10 degrees above ambient temperature water temperature in all conditions is between 77 and 79 deg C (regardless of ambient temperature *tested to 36 deg C*). |
Here is a few of pics of my modified atomizers and how well they do that job, this is a customers jet undergoing some calibration and general testing. Can be set from 100cc to 850cc per minute @ 1.5 bar pressure.
http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/6...waterspray.jpg Data logged air pressure and water pressure, testing flow modifications http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/6...waterspray.jpg http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/109...atersprays.jpg Works form 7psi to 100psi boost pressures < yes I have tested it this high :) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Lizxy3XIY8 <video http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/762...551sweet11.jpg |
I should have responded earlier, I was too pre-occupied with our new system launch.
Again, great set of pictires. You system will go far with such a good dynamic rangem, putting all the PPS (progressive pump speed) system maker to shame. Thay struggle to give a dynamic range of 2x. Linearily and atomisation are terrible. It is the right season to play? |
Well Finally ! Tested & Finished :) *taken from another forum I posted up details, for reference this is a list of other cars at bottom of this page that I test to give relative performance in mild state of tune. Could will go even faster on same boost as at end of third gear it (last 5kph) got into higher EGT and the ECU increased the fueling (making engine too rich 10.6:1) to cool the EGT down (cost ~20rwkw in upper revs power), I have since redone the table to allow a higher EGT setting before automatic fuel enrichment will occur.
http://www.riceracing.com.au/vbox-ii...ing-tuning.htm Logged the SP this morning and did some back pressure testing for SMB on the mid section street exhaust. 3rd gear 90-140 time of 3.11 seconds on 14.1psi boost pressure RR Water Injected, Turbine speed 91068rpm 132kph = 0.443G < (10% more acceleration at same speed as ONE58 when I logged it at 12.2sec @ 118mph on street on 1.1bar boost on twins FMIC etc, driver only in car) Turbine inlet pressure 12.0psi Exhaust back pressure 2.63psi 6681rpm 11.36AFR EGT 985deg C Fuel pressure 64.98psi Full boost = 3700rpm Ambient temp 10.6deg C Inlet manifold air temp on fast acting sensor = 32 deg C need to do up the graphs, exhaust back pressure at 240rwkw on VBOX was 3.0psi @ 7500rpm (which I would class as quite good for 2 mufflers and a catalytic converter & plumb back waste gate set up). |
Hey beautiful build, very well thought out and well documnted :cool:
So at 14psi boost your only seeing 2.63psi exh back pressure, thats very good. You also have a turbo inlet pressure reading as well (12psi) that'll be interesting to compare as I'm going to be running one to with a sealed ram air inlet to the turbo. This is on a landspeed bike so I'm hoping I may start to see positive atmoshere figures at top speed. Good luck with the car, it looks great. Ian |
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Thanks for nice words :) I too have a ram air sealed air box for my turbo inlet, there is a carbon duct going down into the nose cone main entry that feeds the air box, I should fit up a pressure sensor there and do some high speed tests. http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/4515/img1517smb.jpg http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/7213/img1525smb.jpg The post turbine pressure I thought as you was pretty low considering it is fitted with a catalyst, plumb back waste gate, and two mufflers. Being 3.5" internal diameter probably helps that. Also at this low pressure ratio the turbine inlet pressure is lower than inlet manifold pressure which is beneficial for the engine. I did a brief test to 1.2 bar or about 18psi boost and this relationship held true there also. Look to do up some graphical form of the data and post up so people can have a look. At the moment I will be trialing a batch of 50/50 by weight methanol and water mixture (at a higher injection flow rate) to gain a bit more power and also have a mixture that is easier to ignite without loosing the amount of cooling I have at the moment. When I do the tests will update on that too. Here is a bit of other online resource of a good dyno test done on the topic (if equalized back to even boost pressures) there was a 6% gain in power from the blended mixture. Post number #1225 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...934903&page=49 details follow on after this post. |
I like your thinking :D
Sorry to use your thread but here's a couple of pics showing the ram air inlet (RHside leading edge of fairing) which is sealed when the bellypan is in place. Thats a GT35R behind the green ducting. The under sump exhaust has yet to be finished, hense nothing leading into the silencer!! http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/CIMG1340.jpg http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/Sept2009.jpg |
Looks unreal :) no way I would get on that though :lol: serious lack of skill on two wheels :lol:
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Last time out I toasted a motor at 230mph, luckily it didn't seize just ate itself very quickly !
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Thanks Richard :smile:
I really have my heart set on it sitting on a steady 1.2 bar or 17.5psi inlet manifold pressure and when the weather cools down here maybe try 1.4bar ~20psi, I will update the VBOX3i testing figures once I get my hands on the methanol and mix up a batch. All levels I have run before in my old cars and in customers ones........ just being too cautious in this one for some reason. Tested the compression of the engine after 1800km and its good for a rotary at around ~122psi @ 250rpm (front and rear rotor same) cranking speed. Will keep an eye over this long term. http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/998...mp1800kmfr.jpg I changed the porting specification to give the engine much more mid range power and not concentrate on top end power so much, it is quite fast on road despite relative low levels of peak power. I am projecting it will have a honest 480bhp to 500bhp (at the higher 1.4 boost setting) but will see what happens when I get around to testing this. |
:eek: :shock: incredible work. Super!
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I know people here love facts and figures :smile:
Here is the Kerb Weight of my RX7 SP (totally full fuel tank, all fluids, tools, spare tire etc, ready to run). My car has a 100+liter carbon fuel tank (you can see it just poking out the bottom left rear of the car) :smile: 2826Lb or ~1282kg as pictured. (minus spare tire, tools, jack etc = 1264kg) http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/9...kerbweight.jpg http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/5...kerbweight.jpg For comparison to other performance cars (I borrowed this! of the net from actual measured kerb weights of comparable cars) http://www.germancarzone.com/test-da...ly-loaded.html New: 959 Sport - 1566kg: Here's a little overview for everybody Exotics: 1254kg ? Ferrari F40 1262kg ? McLaren F1 1371kg ? Pagani Zonda F 1388kg ? Pagani Zonda C12S 7.3 1406kg ? Ferrari Enzo 1418kg ? Koenigsegg CCR 1472kg ? Porsche Carrera GT 1531kg ? Maserati MC12 1590kg ? Lamborghini Diablo SV 1800kg ? Lamborghini Murcielago LP640 1820kg ? Lamborghini Murcielago 6.2 Supercars: 1387kg ? Ferrari 360 Challenge Stradale 1410kg - Ascari KZ1 1440kg ? Porsche 997 GT3 1442kg ? Chevrolet Corvette C6 Z06 1463kg ? Porsche 996 GT2 MK2 1493kg ? Ferrari F430 1580kg ? Porsche 997 Turbo 1599kg ? Ford GT 1600kg ? Dodge Viper SRT-10 1613kg ? Lamborghini Gallardo Coupes: 1244kg - Honda NSX-R 1268kg - Marcos TSO GT2 Sports Package 1290kg - Wiesmann GT MF4 1421kg ? BMW M3 CSL 1461kg ? Porsche 997 Carrera S 1636kg ? Aston Martin V8 Vantage 1492kg ? Chevrolet Corvette C6 1672kg ? Maserati GranSport Exotic GT's: 1678kg ? Mercedes-Benz CLK DTM 1747kg ? Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren 1753kg - Ferrari 599 GTB __________________ LARD ARSE R35 GTR DATSUN LOL http://blogs.cobbtuning.com/wp-conte...bb_r35_115.jpg http://blogs.cobbtuning.com/wp-conte...bb_r35_114.jpg 3825.6 lbs or 1735kg. 10 gallons of fuel *only 38lt so not full kerb weight* . Keep in mind this is a Japanese version, the US models may be a little different (more?). |
Some more good reading here http://www.perrinperformance.com/pages/show/51
I got my Methanol today and mixed up a batch of 50/50 by weight will test it over the weekend on 1.20kg/cm boost... would like to end up on 1.4kg/cm (around 21psi in old money). When I get tests finished will post up VBOX result, but need to burn off 70lt of excess fuel as I filled it up the other day :oops: need to keep the weight equal for comparisons of times. :lol: |
I am looking forward to the comparison.
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Giving you an update on my W/M 50/50 test. I mixed up a batch yesterday (will take pics of what I did if it helps you) I went out today for a 200km drive. On the first few km I gave it a few squirts to make sure the remaining water was used out of the line. About 10km down road pulled out of a junction and selected 2nd gear and it was drifting up road just about to activate the traction control and the engine note was totally different to ever before (much nicer and louder) *good start* I built up my confidence along the way and started opening her up and the feeling I had in second was observed in 3rd and 4th, on my journey I was overtaking cars and 4wd?s towing caravans with crazy speed just leaving it in 4th (going to 160kph stupidly well). On my return leg after almost 2 hours running of the engine nonstop I overtook one car and revved it out in 3rd gear to 7100rpm on dead flat road I normally use, thing felt better than ever before (today is 25deg C). In this weather and on 1.20kg/cm boost at those revs it showed 254rwkw on my Blitz power measure, the previous highest was 232rwkw on 1.0kg/cm on about a 10 deg C day and engine was very cold (when I went to do my 90-140 test). The impression of the 50/50 mix is that it does work far better in my engine set up when the water jet is set to 3 turns out (as today) on pure water I was having the jet out at about 2.5 turns and for like conditions the car now feels to me at least 10% more in power if not maybe a bit more? Can?t tell for sure till I hook up VBOX, it?s still got well over ? tank of fuel in it so when it works its way down to ? as per my other tests I will go out early in the morning and do another 90-140 test and get some more comparable figures. I doubt I will ever go back to straight water again. Specs: 3 turns out (water injector) = ~500cc/min on my system at this boost AFR 10.9:1 at full throttle (was before 11.2 to 11.3) About 13 deg ign timing 8 deg split 50/50 by weight methanol to water. 254rwkw on Blitz (from my experience engine is making around 450bhp region) Peter **foot note** This power measure is off my on board boost controller which has a power meter also it reads a bit lower than what I obtain from the VBOX. The peak power as recorded on the Blitz data logging was at 6900rpm and the engine def does not fall off power nearly as bad as before, it does feel allot stronger especially given the car was heavier and also in about 15 deg C hotter test condition (not to mention motor had been running for 2 hours straight). |
This may be of interest to some people, I still like to look at spark plugs after a long drive or extended use at a new setting on the engine parameters generally half a dozen full throttle applications is enough to establish what is happening via colors etc.
For those not familiar with rotary engines: (leading plug holes have a large opening to the combustion chamber and trailing plug holes have a smaller shielded hole) I use this visual check + EGT reading to balance any differences in the fuel air balance. FL = front leading spark plug FT = front trailing spark plug RL = rear leading spark plug RT = rear trailing spark plug NGK 10 heat range plugs are 2000km old, run a 0.020" gap, Optimax Shell 98 Ron fuel, Mobil 1 engine oil (oil injected into motor), and Sthil 2 stroke premix at 180:1 mixed in with fuel also 10.9:1 AFR with 1.20kg/cm boost and 500cc Water Methanol at 50/50 mix (today's runs), engine operating temp is 77~79 deg C In case anyone is bored! Look On !!! http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/atta...or-missngk.jpg Front Rotor http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/147...ugsreading.jpg Rear Rotor http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/820...ugsreading.jpg Click here ^ This site a bloke does a running analysis of thousands of miles of various plugs in his mazda, though of little relevance to this its a nice read anyway. |
why do u have "Sthil 2 stroke premix at 180:1 mixed in with fuel also "
is that some super special rotory secret to cool the engine?? |
In my experience of running these motors over years and having to build very many I have found you need at least ~80:1 (total) fuel to oil ratio at higher than stock power levels to reduce wear on critical parts in the engine *chamfering of apex seal biggest problem - see here > http://www.riceracing.com.au/apex-seals.htm *. The oil metering pump is not of adequate supply, nor does it distribute lubricant very well either thus extra lubricant is required in the fuel.... if you want to ask me why that brand you can PM me or simply go to ausrotary.com and do a search where I have spoken and given examples at length on this topic.
Went for another drive this afternoon and the car is allot of fun, 3rd gear accelerates out so well, its almost pointless selecting it at 100kph cause when you over take you are changing gear in what seems just a couple of seconds... better to leave it in 4th! hahaha and I want to run 1.7bar eventually ! :) that seems silly now :) I went through some old notes and a friend of mine in Norway has a S5 13b turbo with T66 turbo (similar to mine) 1.0 a/r rear turbine and on his bosses engine dyno with 1.7bar boost it made 580bhp using 98 Optimax and water injection....... they ran up to 1.9bar at mid range revs on the stock 9.0:1 compression ratio. I think for this car 1.4kg/cm will be more than enough :lol: |
o.k. here is an update with more specifics as done so far, cause I am very familiar with my cars feeling and acceleration and have on board power measures as well I decided to do some longer term testing in all conditions to make sure its reliable before I go and hook up my VBOX and make an official comparison to the base I posted before.
Parameters: 1.20kg/cm boost, no fuel map to timing adjustments 1000km running of these various settings equally distributed. Water flow rate 2.5 turns setting 404cc/min = good power feeling 11.3:1 AFR Water methanol 50/50 3.0 turns setting 462cc/min = better power than pure water 10.9:1 AFR Water methanol 50/50 2.5 turns setting 404cc/min = best power so far (car feels strongest of all combination's trialed) 11.1:1 AFR So I have decided to settle on the last setting, there is no knock and the engine restarts :lol: and its in one piece :lol: General feeling is the car is fast (which is good) so from this point I will do a more thorough analysis and comparison of the performance. |
Thank you for the results, it is a very intersting comparison. AFR is very predictable.
The Vbox comparison will be spectacular! Take your time. I bekieve the weather is still quite warm in Aussie land. |
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