[alco33]

Hello. I've have some new information. I installed an old fashioned in line amp meter into the pump supply line using #10 wire. What I found is that first thing in the morning when the throttle called for injection the ammeter shows a draw of about 55 amps meaning the pump is stalled. (I conclude the 55 amps as it will blow a 50 amp fuse but not a 60 amp). After driving around for 15 - 20 minutes the system will start working perfectly with a low current draw in the 3-10 amp range ... not easy to tell accurately using a old fashioned mechanical 100 amp ammeter. I understand your concern about corrosion. When I installed the replacement relay (waterproof) I used dielectric grease on all connections and then wrapped the relay and all connections in the aquamist system even though there was no evidence of corrosion or even moisture anywhere. Working on 4wd vehicles I have a good deal of experience keeping things dry and corrosion free. Examine the pump bearings? On an essentially new pump? I'm not opposed to pump disassembly, but what does that do to my warranty? I suppose the pump might have burned spots on the armature given the high current draw? What abvout the check valve? If it malfunctions will the pump stall in a deadhead condition?