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Old 14-05-2014, 09:34 AM
dubversion dubversion is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: NL
Posts: 35
Default Re: BMW E91 335i engine bay installation using WW

WW tank

It's a nightmare to take this out. the WW tank is located on the right side of the car towards the door, behind the wheel arch. The tank itself is actually arched to fit there. You'll need to take out the side blinker. You push it towards the engine or the opposite way, just try both, and when you think you're about to break it, you'll feel some movement. By sliding it a bit more, you can then pull it towards you. It's held in place by friction. And doing a good job of that... When reinstalling the WW tank, make sure you use a little bit of tape to the cable for the blinker, so you can easily reconnect it back to the light.

You'll need to take the wheel off and there's A LOT of screws to unbolt. They're all easy, just remember how it all fits back, you don't want to have spare parts when you're done...
Once the side blinker and all the bolts and wheel arch casing parts are out of the way, the WW tank itself is visible. Now you'll have to get it out. It's not easy, but basically it comes towards the front of the engine. I had to use some force acquired from a lack of patience after fiddling with it for 20 minutes. Getting it back was easier. The unit has a pumps on it, i reckon one for the WW and one for the Xenon lights. I drilled the third spot with the 22/23 mm drill for the HFS4 meth intake. it fits neatly and the filter also fits:



Don't forget to clean the tank with water when you have it out. Also test your setup for leaks before you reinstall it.

Chargepipe
As mentioned, we drilled DOWNSTREAM from the MAP sensor. I decided to go with the 2 x 1.0 mm nozzles:


Don't forget the loctite. the cp-e chargepipe was pretty thin. Maybe three smaller nozzles would also be a good idea and put them in a circle around the chargepipe, so the spray is as uniform around the pipe as possible. You don't want one cylinder to get more water than the other. Richard's point is that for this fact you should give the water more time to evaporate by getting it more UPSTREAM towards the intercooler. I was just very afraid of a false MAP sensor reading.

One of the tap in the chargepipe was at best one rotation. It would be an improvement to weld in a thicker piece in which you could drill more tap. However, we managed to get it to work without leakage and it felt tight and strong enough.


Securing wires
Remember that dual cones move around A LOT on high speed. keep wires securely in place using tie wraps and away from hot or moving parts. You do not want a rupture with high flammable meth while you're drving or racing...


Testing the unit
As i said, because our cars have direct injection, the green USER cable also needs to be connected when testing:

The purging of the pump is pretty easy with a bucket. We did a a couple of times.
Now is also a good time to turn the dial on the gauge called "SC" which tweaks the amount of bars against the fuel injector sensor signal. I think we had it set at about 11 o'clock. You can do it when you're testing the spray pattern, as Richard explains in his manual in test 3.


The HFS4 comes with dummies to plug into the nozzle holes of the charge pipe.

Then you get ready to spray against the windshield, we used ducttape:


We did not yet set up the failsafes, because we still needed to tune. there's a jumper to bypass the failsafes, we had it set ON (so bypass the failsafe settings on the gauge).

the Thres dial inside the controller was the last thing we set. For our application, it turned out you need to turn it almost completely counter clock wise (so setting it very low/sensitive). I would say we had to set it to 3 o'clock and minimum is 4 o'clock. If Thres is not set correctly, you'll be doing your test drive, do a WOT, but no or little spray is seen.


Final notes:

- The gauge actually has an ON/OFF button. Very handy but hard to notice when you look at the gauge.
- The pump vibrates a lot, so make sure you use all 4 screws to secure it.
- Direct injection needs the green USER connector to the controller in the SYS jumper during initial testing.
- Make sure that you stick to the test procedure as descibred. Don't skip the tests.


Final result:



And then the car was stolen....
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