[parmas]

Originally Posted by rotrex

If your ECU offers knock control, even better.
The coil does not overheat as your engine is not permanently knocking to the maximum degree, say for minutes at the time. It also extends the dwell by max 10 deg in my config. So that is a few ms the most and that every few seconds. Nothing happens. At 6000 rpm for a I4 engine this corresponds to a extra 0.27ms dwell or say you have a total dwell of 3ms about 10% extra dwell every here and there. Nothing to worry about.
Most of the time the J&s does not do anything, even in Spa being at WOT some 50% of every lap. As you now get a good feel where the knock spots are, you eliminate them from your map. This way it only takes care about the exceptional knock instances.

Regarding cylinders. The units are configured for a specific engine configuration, say a inline 4 and distributor ignition with a single coil. If knock occurs, it knows that the very same cylinder is ignited 4 sparks later. It does not know if it is 1,2,3 or 4 as there is no cam phase sensor. But it knows when the same one is about to fire again. :-) And that is all that counts. You get versions for whatever engine config you have. V8 flat crank, Cross crank, I6, distributor, distributorless, 8x coil on plug, batch ignition, sequential ignition. Just tell him what you need. It is a one man company. The owner knows the designer and the programmer pretty well :-) His wife does the admin.

A single knock sensor captures knock all round the block. Aluminium is a good sound conductor. Most engines get around with a single sensor per four cylinder bank. I6 engines often have two, V12 sometimes 4.
I have observed it applying 4 different levels of retard on 4 different cylinders as indicated by 4 LEDs illuminated. If 1 to 4 cylinders have the same retard you only see 1 LED. You can also set the J&S to apply global retard on all cylinders.

The pressure switch is a Hobbs switch that was left over in my Aquamist 2c kit and the SW is a standard feature of my Emerald K3 ECU. It works from a analog input. It tells the ECU to switch maps past adjustable voltage threshold. The rest is a resistor across the switch and a internal pull up resistor :-)

I will surely send him a message, if you want I can put you in my reference for your good name.

Cheers