At almost any level of fueling just adding water injection of any amount worth mentioning and making no adjustments will generally reduce power output - at overly rich settings not only will it reduce power but between the amount of fuel and amount of water being added you need to be concerned about fouling plugs and bore wash (assume this is still an issue in rotaries). I know that rotaries can both be det prone and very easily damaged by det relative to recipricating but don't overdo it with quenching your cylinders. At a rich condition methanol will not be any better than water. Keep in mind that at 10:1 there was no oxygen left about 2 AFR factors ago - it doesn't matter how much of a combustible fluid you put in, it isn't going to burn any better than water.
If you are going to tune this yourself, you really should take baby steps tuning without the WI using a WBO2, knock sensor and EGT. Find out where you should be without water injection. Then start injecting a little bit of water and see where that gets you. Small steps over time will get you there and you will learn a lot along the way. I know for those of us that can't just sit on a dyno all day long fiddling this self-tuning method takes a while and we get impatient to move - but just like turning on the track slow in, fast out. Take your time and get a good feel up front and going forward things will move along alot faster including your car.
Oh and after you just got a good feel for various fuel/water/methanol mixtures then you get to play with timing over it all.
|