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#1
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Hi all,
car is 996tt with gt30s turbos, upgrade fuel system 80cc injectors and trying to run in the end about 1.6 bar or more. Car is running a bit rich even without meth, lambda set point is 0.8 and actual values are 0.78-0.8 most of the time i tried with W60/M40 on defaul mapping (IDC) and after that W45/M55 on a custom mapping (MPS) and the same result, i see lambda going down to 0.73, engine load gets very high and engine is coughing I am told i need to start injecting by 7 psi and full at 15 psi, any thoughts ? thanks a lot Fadi |
#2
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Richard, can you help me please ? I used a basic kit instead of HFS4 and it works...
Isnt this kit supposed to be plug and play for basic users anyway? |
#3
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Based on your is post, running rich is not good especially you injection water/meth on top. Reduce your fuel flow until you are running ~11.8 AFR
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Richard L aquamist technical support |
#4
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i used same aquamist pump, meth lines, injectors 2x1.2mm !!! and replaced your controller with a basic on/off boost switch at 10 psi reading boot from the intake and linked to the pump... car is running OK, i see much much better timing, better than with ms109 !!, perfect afr-not running rich anymore, but no iat drop, just slower increase of iat.... but i am able to run much more boost, so the problem is from the controller... are you sure the wiring diagram is correct ?
Last edited by zx9rmania; 02-08-2013 at 05:57 PM. |
#5
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if you are running 2x 1.2mm jets and see no IAT temperature drop but much better timing, there must be something wrong with the temperature sensors. Send a picture of the jet installation.
Replacing the controller with a boost switch makes the car runs better, so there are really no problem to solve.
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Richard L aquamist technical support |
#6
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i bought the most advanced controller from aquamist, not a basic boost switch like 20 years ago, this is the problem
used both places to inject, see pics attached |
#7
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The HFS4 can be triggered by boost and set to on/off mode. You have just wasted your money on a mechanical pressure switch?
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Richard L aquamist technical support |
#8
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I tried that just to make sure the system works, i had already that boost switch.
Seems i have found the biggest problem : I just untightened the bypass screw on the pump and now IAT is dropping 10-15C, sometimes even bellow ambient temps, i think this was the problem... now i have to fine tune it, still getting rich but car is not bogging like before, maybe a bit less meth and maybe a bit later will do the job. I would inject mostly by boost (P/I-R almost all the way to the left) but in the IDC and PWM mode, if this will be difficult i will switch to MPS/PWM and the last chance will be MPS/SSG and add later on all failsafes, i will still run with DFS on for now |
#9
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if i switch to mps the amber led is always on and system is injecting all the time,any ideas ?
i tried different thres, gain, p/i-r setttings but no luck. |
#10
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There is something very wrong on this.
Can you measure the voltage at test point 17 relative to ground (bottom left of the test points)
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Richard L aquamist technical support |
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