RICESP Water Injected RX7

[RICE RACING]

Originally Posted by Grant M

Hi Peter its Grant from MRC, thought i would take your advice and get signed up on here and start feeding off the WI knowledge that is on here.

Are the coils you use for motorbike applications?

The site Richard has created here is the BEST forum based resource for water injection, the quality of posts and people who contribute far exceeds to quantity you will get in other places, so make yourself at home and search around across all of the sub forums, you will find a mountain of information.

The coils I use are made by Dynatek and they are predominantly used on motorbikes, snow mobiles, water craft, etc. My experience here again has been copied allot across the world and as such you get quite a few people now gagging over the Dynatek CDI's and their coils.... it again is but one of the many products I trial and am happy to pass on my experience for everyone else to benefit from

[Grant M]

Don't worry about me copying your design as I will be sticking to the DlI system for some time until I can afford something as spectacular.

I have found the thread on pre turbo injection. I have read all of the first 20 pages only another twenty to go!!!!!!

What are your thoughts on this? Obviously I see that you point your WI nozzle at the centre nut if you turbo bur is there an ideal distance for this so that any slight large water droplets don't hit the fast moving outside edge of the inducer?

Also tour air feeds in from the side from your cold air antake box, does the incoming air not essentially push the water flow from the centre of the wheel to slightly off centre?

[Grant M]

At what PSI do you start injecting your water? As a few of the guys don't inject until high revs high load(psi) by high I mean after 10 psi and upwards although I don't think that this is too high.

I am also debating as to wether to use an intercooler on my car but I mainly think I should as it will be a road car and if I'm cruising on the motorway off boost then I wouldn't have any WI cooling effects if I was using your boost switched WI?

I think I have just answered my own question haven't I?

Removing the intercooler would only be good if it was a drag car only so as to reduce the lag created by the intercooler.

[RICE RACING]

They are all good questions and all I can tell you is my own findings, keep in mind I am only one person, you will get lots of other experience and opinions etc from others.

In my system I run a pressurised air feed system, its totally sealed and rams air into the turbocharger helping its efficiency at any speed especially over 80kph (its ram air feed is located in the nose of the car) *pic's earlier on in the thread* This increased compressor flows at moderate to high vehicle speeds. SO far as my air feeds its a theory I applied to pre swirl the air into the feed of the turbo mouth, it works well. For the injector placement genearlly the further away the better it is, it just depends on your vehicle instal and what you can do in the room you have. Heaps of fitment locations do work *you can see my web site for all kinds of examples*

On the topic of intercoolers, I have ALWAYS run them, the combination of the two systems seems to work best especially when you factor in total system fluid use you would need to run to repliacte the mass air flow into the engine without running one, thus I recommend to people to use a mid sized intercooler and piping, the lag induced by such a system in minimal V's the positive mass flow increase due to improved charge density increase it offers, and the amount of WI you need to use is what I would class as NORMAL as an added benefit. This is very important when you are talking using WM50 boost fluid as you can still keep conventional tuning settings and most importantly ability to switch from WM50 back to pure water (for competitions that require you to only use water) or if simply for availability or lack there of. You WONT be able to do this if you run no Intercooler due to the qty of fluid you will need to run. So the system overal is not as flexible. My philosophy is to make a system that is easy and adaptable to any reasonable environmental condition or sitation a driver will face in the real world. I'm sure you could do it in any extreme you wish to explore, remember mine is but one solution that works for me and most peoples situations.

I run water injection from 8psi onwards, the engines just run much better on water injection than without, the point at which I turn it on is not so much arbitrary but a consideration of atomization quality and also total fluid use and a variety of other factors to do with tuning and so on which I dont care to elaborate on too much in a public forum which over 12,000 stalkers have kept up to speed with to date lol. Though I think this is enough information for you and others to read

[RICE RACING]

Got Wing !

[RICE RACING]

Current engine bay set up with Capacitive Discharge ignition system, been running 1.8bar boost last few weeks.

[Grant M]

Looking good Peter.

What size is the inlet on your turbo?

I will email you privately soon as I want to order a WI system from you. : )

Would you be willing to share the dimensions of the WI mounting you have as I want to try something similar in my rx4 as I will hopefully have an Abundance of space for a proper air filter system.

I will understand if you tell me to stick it where the sun dint shine though. Cheers.

Car still looking good. How much rubber are you going through on 1.8 bar?!!!!

[RICE RACING]

4" inlet on the turbo.

You get the full specs on the tank when you get the kit , I'm more than happy to talk to you over E-Mail when your ready not a problem at all.

The rear tires are 255 wide good street tires, they do get pretty shredded in 2nd gear so I leave the traction control on to limit tire wear, 3rd gear now they are having a hard time also, but generally now I just leave the car in 4th gear (from 80kph to ~240kph) it has more than enough torque *red spread of power* to pin you back at any revs/speed, using third to overtake is pointless as its over in less than 2 seconds and you are either about to fly off the highway! or literally drill into the back of another car ............ it's a great little car !!!!

[RICE RACING]

Get On It!

:-Oc==3

[RICE RACING]

She has passed the 1.8kg/cm durability tests with flying colors & the performance is amazing. We have the new settings at 2.10kg/cm (over 2 bar gauge, 300kpa ABS, 30+psi in the old money)..... there is still plenty of margin left in the set up to run 2.5kg/cm in street trim but as before will run at the intermediate step to prove it rather than do a one off power pull BS type sheet posting as is the norm among most kiddies shops or internet experts

The acceleration is gag factor to the max! it's not scary but I tell you it does make your arsehole pulsate in mild fear if you have not sampled this kind of thing recently.......... !!!!!!!!!!!