#201
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If you just heat water in a strong chamber to a specific temperature and maintaining it electronically, you will automatically generate the required pressure, I posted a chart sometime ago regarding water pressure against temperature, I believe at 370C, the natural water pressure is something like 200 bar!!!
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Richard L aquamist technical support |
#202
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That's impressive!
Richard, can HSV take this pressure ? :twisted:
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'97 Fiat Punto GT |
#203
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Defintely a no no no. The HSV is not suitable for this job.
I too having troubll finding the chart I posted on water pressure against temperature in a closed vessel on another post. I think you need a diesel injector to do the job.
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Richard L aquamist technical support |
#204
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Shame how little this thread has moved on since I last checked.
PuntoGT's errosion pics are definately not conclusive proof -- they could well be due to the poor filtration characteristics of K&N cones, which become laughably bad after cleaning them once or twice (just stick it in front of a strong light and you'll see what I mean!) I've now got a SupraTT which I'll fit with precompressor injection and see how far the stock turbos can go. They are good candidates for such experimentation, as they are undersized for 400+bhp, in fact they leave their efficiency islands right after 1bar. The shape of the intake plumbing is kinda weird, so I need to figure out where to optimally locate the nozzle(s). Fingers crossed. |
#205
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According to K&N, the filtering is not done by "blocking" the particles, but adhering them by the oil & the thin thread end splits. So you always need oil in such filter. (and do not use them after 20 times of cleaning, at that time, those thin hairs are mostly gone) I've been using K&N for years without filtering problem. Yes indeed, it's not that clean as the stock paper filter can provide, but very close. And it out performs a lot in flow. Let's admit it, those obvious radial traces on the blades can only be made by "fluid", not "particles" from bad filtering. Marks by particle impacts should look like dots (think sand blasting), not lines. Because they are always bouncing around when contacting solid surfaces. Fluid would mostly stay on the surface & flow down, that makes line marks. I know the corroded blades in the picture is scaring (to some at least), but I absolutely hope to see other's successful results. (And actually I'm still using this same turbo now & it seems OK. ) I remember Larry had used pre-compressor injection for quite a while & the condition of his turbo was far better then mine. About the jet location we were talking over a lot previously, I have a reverse idea that maybe getting the jet(s) further upstream would be better. Why? Simple, droplets have more time to evaporate before touching the blades, and evaporation makes them smaller. As to the water which gathers on the inner wall, I can only guess the issue would be minor. Also as mentioned, there's always a step in the turbo inlet. My pre-compressor jet was quite close to the blade, about only 8" far. It was located in the elbow and mosly "aimed" at the blade. In contrast, Larry's jet is further upstream, and injects vertically to the flow..... That's what I'm thinking....
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'97 Fiat Punto GT |
#206
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Have a look on my website under 'intake' if you're really interested. Quote:
I've got the pressure measurments to prove it. Quote:
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There is a 'split' afterwards, with the pipes going to each turbo (say 120degree turns) Then there is a 180degree turn for each turbo. Who knows how the atomisation will be after all this torturous path... When I dismantle the turbos in the future, I'll stick a W.I. nozzle right opposite to each compressor. Then we'll know which one works better. Wish me good luck :wink: |
#207
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The space for the stock air box has been occupied by water pump for years, and nowhere else to mount it. (if you get a chance to glance round the engine bay of a Punto, you'll know what I mean) ... Anyway, about the air filter "myth", I've read some. I'd say they are very "interesting". Opposite opinions are everywhere, just like everything else. In my own car & my own experiences, the cone type K&N works the best. (with proper heat shield) About the so-called "stock type" plate filter from K&N, I think it's indeed useless. The area is just too small. In this case, stock filter does sometimes perform better. I know it because I had tried it. But cone type is another story. This somewhat injured turbo on my car is the 3rd one I have. And I had also used K&N with the first 2. Their compressor blades were not like this. So, it's quite "interesting", eh?:wink: (Actually, as I'm getting older & older, I found it's harder & harder to distinguish truths & myths :? ) Quote:
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'97 Fiat Punto GT |
#208
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One good thing is that you can time a run with W.I., then another one with a different activation point, then pull the fuse and do another without WI |
#209
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#210
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OK, here's another issue that's been bugging me. Ideas are welcome.
Suppose that we want the water injection stream to hit the compressor blades straight on. If there is a 90degree turn of the pipes right before the turbo this might be easier than I thought -- my engine has two compressors, each one 'blessed' with such a steep turn :wink: This is how we'd like things to be However, since the air is moving at seriously high speeds and it has inertia, this is what we'll probably experience: In that case, perhaps we could account for this by setting the nozzle a bit offset: What do you guys think? I've found some pictures of compressor blades erroded by injected water in the wrong size/pattern. OK these were power-generator turbines and they were being injected continously, but the principle is the same. (the leading edges of the front compressor blades were eroded, not unlike Punto's pic lol...) |
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