#31
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:shock: incredible work. Super!
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#32
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I know people here love facts and figures :smile:
Here is the Kerb Weight of my RX7 SP (totally full fuel tank, all fluids, tools, spare tire etc, ready to run). My car has a 100+liter carbon fuel tank (you can see it just poking out the bottom left rear of the car) :smile: 2826Lb or ~1282kg as pictured. (minus spare tire, tools, jack etc = 1264kg) For comparison to other performance cars (I borrowed this! of the net from actual measured kerb weights of comparable cars) http://www.germancarzone.com/test-da...ly-loaded.html New: 959 Sport - 1566kg: Here's a little overview for everybody Exotics: 1254kg ? Ferrari F40 1262kg ? McLaren F1 1371kg ? Pagani Zonda F 1388kg ? Pagani Zonda C12S 7.3 1406kg ? Ferrari Enzo 1418kg ? Koenigsegg CCR 1472kg ? Porsche Carrera GT 1531kg ? Maserati MC12 1590kg ? Lamborghini Diablo SV 1800kg ? Lamborghini Murcielago LP640 1820kg ? Lamborghini Murcielago 6.2 Supercars: 1387kg ? Ferrari 360 Challenge Stradale 1410kg - Ascari KZ1 1440kg ? Porsche 997 GT3 1442kg ? Chevrolet Corvette C6 Z06 1463kg ? Porsche 996 GT2 MK2 1493kg ? Ferrari F430 1580kg ? Porsche 997 Turbo 1599kg ? Ford GT 1600kg ? Dodge Viper SRT-10 1613kg ? Lamborghini Gallardo Coupes: 1244kg - Honda NSX-R 1268kg - Marcos TSO GT2 Sports Package 1290kg - Wiesmann GT MF4 1421kg ? BMW M3 CSL 1461kg ? Porsche 997 Carrera S 1636kg ? Aston Martin V8 Vantage 1492kg ? Chevrolet Corvette C6 1672kg ? Maserati GranSport Exotic GT's: 1678kg ? Mercedes-Benz CLK DTM 1747kg ? Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren 1753kg - Ferrari 599 GTB __________________ LARD ARSE R35 GTR DATSUN LOL 3825.6 lbs or 1735kg. 10 gallons of fuel *only 38lt so not full kerb weight* . Keep in mind this is a Japanese version, the US models may be a little different (more?).
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http://www.riceracing.com.au RICESP > F40 > Zonda > ZR1 Water Injection Specialist "Can't be defeated!, don't know the word!, shoulder to shoulder!, we'll fight the world!, WE CAN'T BE BEATEN!!!" |
#33
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Some more good reading here http://www.perrinperformance.com/pages/show/51
I got my Methanol today and mixed up a batch of 50/50 by weight will test it over the weekend on 1.20kg/cm boost... would like to end up on 1.4kg/cm (around 21psi in old money). When I get tests finished will post up VBOX result, but need to burn off 70lt of excess fuel as I filled it up the other day ops: need to keep the weight equal for comparisons of times. :lol:
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http://www.riceracing.com.au RICESP > F40 > Zonda > ZR1 Water Injection Specialist "Can't be defeated!, don't know the word!, shoulder to shoulder!, we'll fight the world!, WE CAN'T BE BEATEN!!!" |
#34
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I am looking forward to the comparison.
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Richard L aquamist technical support |
#35
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Quote:
Giving you an update on my W/M 50/50 test. I mixed up a batch yesterday (will take pics of what I did if it helps you) I went out today for a 200km drive. On the first few km I gave it a few squirts to make sure the remaining water was used out of the line. About 10km down road pulled out of a junction and selected 2nd gear and it was drifting up road just about to activate the traction control and the engine note was totally different to ever before (much nicer and louder) *good start* I built up my confidence along the way and started opening her up and the feeling I had in second was observed in 3rd and 4th, on my journey I was overtaking cars and 4wd?s towing caravans with crazy speed just leaving it in 4th (going to 160kph stupidly well). On my return leg after almost 2 hours running of the engine nonstop I overtook one car and revved it out in 3rd gear to 7100rpm on dead flat road I normally use, thing felt better than ever before (today is 25deg C). In this weather and on 1.20kg/cm boost at those revs it showed 254rwkw on my Blitz power measure, the previous highest was 232rwkw on 1.0kg/cm on about a 10 deg C day and engine was very cold (when I went to do my 90-140 test). The impression of the 50/50 mix is that it does work far better in my engine set up when the water jet is set to 3 turns out (as today) on pure water I was having the jet out at about 2.5 turns and for like conditions the car now feels to me at least 10% more in power if not maybe a bit more? Can?t tell for sure till I hook up VBOX, it?s still got well over ? tank of fuel in it so when it works its way down to ? as per my other tests I will go out early in the morning and do another 90-140 test and get some more comparable figures. I doubt I will ever go back to straight water again. Specs: 3 turns out (water injector) = ~500cc/min on my system at this boost AFR 10.9:1 at full throttle (was before 11.2 to 11.3) About 13 deg ign timing 8 deg split 50/50 by weight methanol to water. 254rwkw on Blitz (from my experience engine is making around 450bhp region) Peter **foot note** This power measure is off my on board boost controller which has a power meter also it reads a bit lower than what I obtain from the VBOX. The peak power as recorded on the Blitz data logging was at 6900rpm and the engine def does not fall off power nearly as bad as before, it does feel allot stronger especially given the car was heavier and also in about 15 deg C hotter test condition (not to mention motor had been running for 2 hours straight).
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http://www.riceracing.com.au RICESP > F40 > Zonda > ZR1 Water Injection Specialist "Can't be defeated!, don't know the word!, shoulder to shoulder!, we'll fight the world!, WE CAN'T BE BEATEN!!!" |
#36
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This may be of interest to some people, I still like to look at spark plugs after a long drive or extended use at a new setting on the engine parameters generally half a dozen full throttle applications is enough to establish what is happening via colors etc.
For those not familiar with rotary engines: (leading plug holes have a large opening to the combustion chamber and trailing plug holes have a smaller shielded hole) I use this visual check + EGT reading to balance any differences in the fuel air balance. FL = front leading spark plug FT = front trailing spark plug RL = rear leading spark plug RT = rear trailing spark plug NGK 10 heat range plugs are 2000km old, run a 0.020" gap, Optimax Shell 98 Ron fuel, Mobil 1 engine oil (oil injected into motor), and Sthil 2 stroke premix at 180:1 mixed in with fuel also 10.9:1 AFR with 1.20kg/cm boost and 500cc Water Methanol at 50/50 mix (today's runs), engine operating temp is 77~79 deg C In case anyone is bored! Look On !!! Front Rotor Rear Rotor Click here ^ This site a bloke does a running analysis of thousands of miles of various plugs in his mazda, though of little relevance to this its a nice read anyway.
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http://www.riceracing.com.au RICESP > F40 > Zonda > ZR1 Water Injection Specialist "Can't be defeated!, don't know the word!, shoulder to shoulder!, we'll fight the world!, WE CAN'T BE BEATEN!!!" |
#37
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why do u have "Sthil 2 stroke premix at 180:1 mixed in with fuel also "
is that some super special rotory secret to cool the engine?? |
#38
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In my experience of running these motors over years and having to build very many I have found you need at least ~80:1 (total) fuel to oil ratio at higher than stock power levels to reduce wear on critical parts in the engine *chamfering of apex seal biggest problem - see here > http://www.riceracing.com.au/apex-seals.htm *. The oil metering pump is not of adequate supply, nor does it distribute lubricant very well either thus extra lubricant is required in the fuel.... if you want to ask me why that brand you can PM me or simply go to ausrotary.com and do a search where I have spoken and given examples at length on this topic.
Went for another drive this afternoon and the car is allot of fun, 3rd gear accelerates out so well, its almost pointless selecting it at 100kph cause when you over take you are changing gear in what seems just a couple of seconds... better to leave it in 4th! hahaha and I want to run 1.7bar eventually ! that seems silly now I went through some old notes and a friend of mine in Norway has a S5 13b turbo with T66 turbo (similar to mine) 1.0 a/r rear turbine and on his bosses engine dyno with 1.7bar boost it made 580bhp using 98 Optimax and water injection....... they ran up to 1.9bar at mid range revs on the stock 9.0:1 compression ratio. I think for this car 1.4kg/cm will be more than enough :lol:
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http://www.riceracing.com.au RICESP > F40 > Zonda > ZR1 Water Injection Specialist "Can't be defeated!, don't know the word!, shoulder to shoulder!, we'll fight the world!, WE CAN'T BE BEATEN!!!" |
#39
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o.k. here is an update with more specifics as done so far, cause I am very familiar with my cars feeling and acceleration and have on board power measures as well I decided to do some longer term testing in all conditions to make sure its reliable before I go and hook up my VBOX and make an official comparison to the base I posted before.
Parameters: 1.20kg/cm boost, no fuel map to timing adjustments 1000km running of these various settings equally distributed. Water flow rate 2.5 turns setting 404cc/min = good power feeling 11.3:1 AFR Water methanol 50/50 3.0 turns setting 462cc/min = better power than pure water 10.9:1 AFR Water methanol 50/50 2.5 turns setting 404cc/min = best power so far (car feels strongest of all combination's trialed) 11.1:1 AFR So I have decided to settle on the last setting, there is no knock and the engine restarts :lol: and its in one piece :lol: General feeling is the car is fast (which is good) so from this point I will do a more thorough analysis and comparison of the performance.
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http://www.riceracing.com.au RICESP > F40 > Zonda > ZR1 Water Injection Specialist "Can't be defeated!, don't know the word!, shoulder to shoulder!, we'll fight the world!, WE CAN'T BE BEATEN!!!" |
#40
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Thank you for the results, it is a very intersting comparison. AFR is very predictable.
The Vbox comparison will be spectacular! Take your time. I bekieve the weather is still quite warm in Aussie land.
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Richard L aquamist technical support |
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