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Old 22-08-2017, 02:13 AM
VeightTT VeightTT is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Houston
Posts: 23
Default Almost there

Almost at the point that my HFS-4 V3 is working properly after about 10 months of trying and troubleshooting.
Last issue (hopefully)

Get in the car drive hit the threshold to start spraying everything works great until my car gets to and above operating temperature (very hot in other words)
As long as I'm driving and activating the system every few minutes everything is fine as soon as I stop for any length of time, stuck in traffic for example that's when the problem starts.
I get no bars on the gauge and the fail safe trips.
Possible causes:-

-Debris in the flow sensor stoping the turbine from spinning.
-Bad flow sensor cable.
-Damaged FAV - Possibly getting stuck or not opening fully.
-Overheating - FAV, flow sensor assembly, flow sensor cable.

Things I have checked and tried (so far)

-Pump possibly hit thermal cut off temperature - not the problem pump works fine.
-SC, WL, WH - no luck
-Threshold, Gain, FSDL - no luck
-MPS, IDC, P-IRC - no luck

I have put the PRK jumper on the DFS jumper switch dropped the back seat, turned off the music to see if the pump is turning on when the gauge stops working it does turn on and the system sprays normally as far as I can tell.
This only happens when the car is at and above operating temperature that's what makes me think something is possibly overheating.

My car is a twin turbo V8 so it naturally runs hot. The ambient temperature here has been 103-108f everyday now for weeks.

With the DFS linked I can trigger the system (with out the gauge working) after 2 or 3 times doing this and watching my coolant temps drop the gauge will come back to life and work as normal.
I cannot do this without the DFS linked because the failsafe trips.

Either the flow assembly is jammed and with the pressure of the flow eventually starts spinning (unlikely, works fine when cool) or the liquid going through the flow assembly and FAV cools things down enough to start working again.

I know, remove the Flow assembly check if it's blocked etc, etc. But it's not me who will be checking this I have to take it to a guy. So I would like to get this done in one go, if I have to keep going back to have parts replaced weather it be the WFS cable or the flow sensor etc. (which I shouldn't have to on a system that is less than a year old) that's just more money.
Any thoughts?

On a somewhat related note the WI led on my gauge is always dimly lit always has been, I thought this was normal just the backlight coming through, After going through every thread I can find on this forum relating to my issues and trying to troubleshoot I came across this thread and apparently it's not normal.
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum2/vbu...ighlight=Gauge
The only time the WI light goes out completely is when the DFS is linked.

I know this is a somewhat long post thanks for taking the time to read.

Cheers
Andrew
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Last edited by VeightTT; 22-08-2017 at 02:51 AM.
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