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#11
03-08-2005, 11:29 PM
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Still tossing up weather to use corrosion inhibiter or soluble oil to protect the injectors.
I fired up a prototype setup using corrosion inhibiter last night, the sickly sweet smell when it fired up was 'interesting', but, it seemed to work. I kinda like the toxic green colour though. The spray adjustments via the duty cycle worked perfectly, I was able to get from a soft, barely wetting spray, all the way up to a remarkably high flow, but, just turning a trim pot.  The spray pattern is kinda horrible, but, the injector is old and I have no idea when the last time it was used, so I'm hoping the pattern will improve after a clean. This is the only picture where you can see the spray.  It seems to be very concentrated and jet like, rather than a mist, I think I've seen pics of blocked injectors with a spray like this so I'm hoping that's all it is. 
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#13
21-08-2005, 11:11 PM
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I've tried some other injectors which seem to spray a nicer, finer mist, but, I've been distracted by other projects.
Hopefully, I should be able to get back to it in a couple of weeks or so...
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#14
02-09-2005, 09:35 AM
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Check out http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/for...water+soluable
This is the same idea I have been discussing with a few other guys. Seams soluable oil at a rate of 10-15% in water works fine. Has a good artical about BWM doing the same thing in the eighties
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#15
02-09-2005, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
thanks for the link. -ken
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#17
13-10-2005, 04:02 PM
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I have been in the lubricants business for about 12 years and I want to put out the thought that certain additives may help prevent rust or corrosion but may cause deposits to form if they do not burn cleanly.All chemicals,even motor oil when burned leave some residue.In a motor oil this is called sulfated ash content,measured by percent of weight left over after the oil is burned.most motor oils have an ash content of about 1%.Think of it like a cigarette burning and the ash thats left over.I just want you to consider that some chemicals you add to you WI mix may not burn off that well.More specifically,its not so much the oil itself that doesnt burn cleanly,but the additives such as antifoam,rust&oxidation inhibitors,detergents etc.that leave the deposits.The discussion of adding chemicals to WI just caught my eye is all.I would hate to see you guys use an additive that created harmful deposits.---
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#18
14-10-2005, 11:42 PM
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Maybe the WI would keep everything clean enough so that deposits are not a factor so maybe,on second thought there isnt that much cause for concern.As far as soluble oils go though they can get a fungus cake at the bottom of the tank wich may clog small orifices.I have been playing with the idea of adding a high quality synthetic two cycle oil to the water/meth mixin the neighborhood of 100:1.what do you guys think?
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#19
16-10-2005, 10:49 PM
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Would the deposits remain the in the chamber though.
I'd assume they would be evacuated by the exhaust, in a car without a cat converter they should get blown straight out the back. The other question is, would a cat converter break down the residual deposits?
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#20
21-10-2005, 02:31 PM
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Ben Did you ever get to try the newer FULL stainless internals? Has that "toxic green stuff" solved the problem of corrosion? Also were you test ingecting h2o/meth/toxic green stuf or just h2o /toxic green stuff? I have a very similar home made controller that is based off of rpm and boost, (1 bar right now, still string to solve that problem I need at least 2 bar) it has similar controls to the dash pot, 1 for base rate and 1 for gain.
I was curious about wether anybody made an injector you KNOW could survive water/methanol. I have never disassembeled an injector but my buddy was telling me they have windings submerged in the fuel and that he thought the meth would attack the dissimilar metal windings. Curious if anybody has any more info on this?
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