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  #11  
Old 31-03-2004, 06:38 PM
Richard L Richard L is offline
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atl93fd,

Reading through your posts again and I may have a probable idea as to why the WI is not reducing your inlet temperature.

Almost 99% of the high flow fuel injectors has a coil impedance between 2.5ohm (flowrate up yo 560cc/min) and 1.2ohm (550cc+). I believe you 850cc/min injector may have the 1.2ohm coil.

The 2d can only reliabily detect coil impedance bwteen 16ohm down to 2.5ohm. I suspect your 2d is not reading the duty cycle up to 93%.

The only way I think you can go forward is to drive the 2d directly from one of the spare outputs from your controller. I assumed that you are using a third party ECU?

please update me.
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  #12  
Old 31-03-2004, 09:13 PM
atl93fd atl93fd is offline
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Richard,

My understanding is these OEM injectors are high impedance, around 14 ohms. The top feed injectors, which I do not have, are around 1.5-4 ohms. I think the WI is acting correctly. I'm uncertain as to the flow rate, but can tell you with the .9mm nozzle, I had water squirting straight up through my boost leak where the elbow met the throttle body.

A tank of water can last me 4-5 weeks thought which brings about suspicion.

It sounds like i SHOULD be noticing a drop in intake temps while injecting. However, I don't notice a difference between stock and go traffic and heavy boost in my temps. This could be because my stock sensor is located underneath the UIM or just plain sucks.

There are times, inconsistently (I haven't been able to repeat it) where my intake temps all of a sudden drop 10-15 degrees C and then almost immediately rise. Most of the time, my intake temps are ~ 40 degrees C..

I am using a third party ECU. Apexi Power FC, a popular unit for the RX-7
Does this sound as if things are working correctly?
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  #13  
Old 31-03-2004, 10:02 PM
Richard L Richard L is offline
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The simplest way to know if the 2d is detecting the IDC or not is by connecting a digital volt meter between the purple wire and ground.

The volt meter range shold be set to volts. 100% iDC should read ~5V and 0% IDC =0V.

Please check the peak readings and let me know.
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  #14  
Old 10-04-2004, 03:06 AM
hamish hamish is offline
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Hi atl93FD,

Another rotorhead here.

You are right in that the FD RX7 injectors are high impedence. I assume you've got another pair of secondary injectors in the primary position which is a fairly common mod.

The stock FD air temp sensor is pretty useless. I'm not sure if it's the age or the design, but they don't seem to move much. I install Haltech E6K's on FD's and the difference in response is huge. As soon as you come on boost the air temp goes up (that is until the water injection kicks in). The design of the sensor is different with the stock one being a solid core whereas the Haltech ones have the thermocouple "open" inside a protector with holes in it. I think this might help.

In saying that it sounds like your water consumption might be a bit low though. Usually on a stock FD you can't even touch the intake manifold it's so hot (after some "enthusiastic" driving). After installing water injection they run as cold as....well...something that's real cold. Nothing like seing a turbo/manifold glowing so hot that you can just about see through it and the intake is still cool to touch!! If your intake is still hot then you need more water.

Intake temperature is a handy way to tune the water injection. The idea (in my opinion) is to try and keep the temperature as smooth as possible. Not too hot, not too cold (too cold a mixture can have adverse affects on fuel mixing properly). This makes the car easier to tune as it's not jumping around the compensation maps so much, and makes the HP and A/F ratios very consistent.

Hope this helps
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  #15  
Old 12-04-2004, 12:28 PM
Warren_from_PINZ Warren_from_PINZ is offline
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Yeah, I agree with Hamish (and others). Sounds like you're not getting enough water (hot intake and not using water). I'd start by bringing it on at a lower boost level, say 5 psi or so. You should be able to get your intake temperature down to 40?C or lower. Then try bigger nozzles or something else that gives more water.
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  #16  
Old 12-04-2004, 11:03 PM
atl93fd atl93fd is offline
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Thanks again for the replies. I don't think I will do anything, as I suspect my thermosensor is a piece of crapola.

Lately (more recently), I'm seeing it drop..from 40-30-20 to 17-15-13-0, then NEGATIVE numbers, -5-10-15, then back to ambient. I'm guessing the sensor is bad.
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  #17  
Old 09-06-2004, 02:02 AM
DuMaurier 7 DuMaurier 7 is offline
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another rotor guy here !!,
I agree with most everything said before , I use the Haltech E6K with the sensor in the stock location and it reacts to everything , from idle , stop and go traffic up to 15psi boost (so far he, he ) without any problems . I also think you aren't injecting enough , keep upping the amount till the car begins to complain then back off a bit. You can also safely lean out your ratios to 13: 1 with the wi , but remember the leaner you go the smaller the safety margein there is if something goes wrong !!. I personally don't go any leaner than 12:1 with good results . You can also get more power if you advance your ignition , but I didnt go too far ,mine is somewhere around 13deg , its always safer to be concervative wit a rotery , they still make the power wit less boost !!. Remember timing requirements aren't like on a piston engine , loads of advance isn't necessary , once yoy find the spot (correctly on a dyno) further advance will result in less HP gain and more risk of damage due to detonation .
I built a potential 600-650 bhp motor and , I am uppin to three nozzles !!!, one 0.9 (the clear one ) , one 0.7 (?the black one ) and a 0.5 (? the green one ) , the VE on a rotary is a lot higher than a piston motor so it would require more water .
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  #18  
Old 02-09-2004, 02:48 PM
maximtaylor maximtaylor is offline
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post removed - stumble not caused by wi - doh!

Hello btw

Max
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  #19  
Old 02-09-2004, 05:07 PM
luv94rx7 luv94rx7 is offline
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Default FD with 2D

Just joined today, my 2D kit was installed last year by Steve Kan.

I have it kicking in at 5psi. I have a 5 gallon fuel cell in the back for the purified water. No problems detonating yet at high boost and 93 octane fuel. I'm using the .9 mm injector.

Ken, 60 years young
'94 white, pep, red leather,
mods: KDR street port & polished, 3mm Hurley racing seals, Hayes upgraded coolant seals,
Power FC ecu, Commander, Datalogit,
Tuned by Steve Kan,
XS T04e single turbo kit,
ASP(M2) Large Racing SMIC with 1630CFM Pull Fan,
Aquamist 2d water injection kit,
Racelogic Traction Control,
Profec B(15&25psi),
RP Racing fuel pump,
1600cc injectors,
MSD 6A(3),
Pettit ss resonated MP,
Pettit ss cat-back,
Pettit short shifter kit,
LaBreck's bushings,
Evans Coolant
http://nopistons.com/luv94rx7.html
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  #20  
Old 02-09-2004, 06:47 PM
DuMaurier 7 DuMaurier 7 is offline
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I am currently running a two staged system , the first one becomes active at 0.0 psi up and the second comes on at 16psi . I am using the 1.0mm nozzle in the first stage spraying into the turbos suction and the second 0.9mm one spraying downstream the IC . I am injecting a bit too much now , however I did notice my exhaust temp drop from 1400 deg F to 1000 deg F with the water injection so I am quite sure that the intake temperature falls too . I have a 5 liter reservoir and have to fill it like once every two weeks , the frequency is totally dependant on your driving style. I think you need to increase your delivery by increasing the water pressure since you already use a fairly large nozzle , increase till the motor "complains" then reduce it a bit .
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