Help with HFS-3 and MPS Trigger

[naviuk]

Originally Posted by Richard L

1. If you are not going to reach 95% ever, then it is better to pre-amplifier the idc. Alternatively, you can leave it at 1:1 and use the gain trimmer to rescale the idc after the trigger point.

2. It is always better to measure the rate manually with the intended jest/jets for one minute. (use the SYS jumper)

3. ---

4. The red wire just tell the turns the entire system on. It is better to use a switched 12V rather the injector (+) as it can some time be very noisy and spiky. We have some Subaru drawings on this forum, mainly USDM but can be similar. Check this out. It is important this 12V should only be active at the "pre-crank" and "run" key position.

The injector (+) is often not found at the ECU. But we have picked a suitable pin at the ECU on the wiring drawings here.

Do you have a v11 or v12 gauge? (marking at the back of the gauge).

Hey Richard

Cool, ok i finally have got some more answers. spent alot of tonight going through wiring and making sure all is as it should be.

The injectors were def wired correctly, although the + was coming from the injector +, i moved this to the switched 12v that is used to power the unit. this only see's 12v at pre-crank and running. The "-" also know as pulse wire, is def in the right place and i tested and confirmed by tracing the other injector wires... one things for sure, i'm learning how these things are wired haha

With the change in wiring i'm not seeing any difference in the gauge, i didnt really expect to see one, but just making note,

I took a video of the testing i did with the unit... The water level light coming on happens when i do the test aswell. so this helped in not having to drive around trying to get a video, i will post it as soon as it has uploaded to "youtube" Basically i get the same results, system triggers and comes online, w.injection light comes on, during that the B comes on the goes away and the water level light comes on and stays on.

YouTube link -->> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjPZZfGl15c
Sorry about the volume, but you will get what i mean by the lights.

What does the "B" on the gauge mean? it flashes for a second of so and then is gone. i'm concerned that something is still not right.

i have attached a picture of what i found on the back, from my understanding i need to break the x1.0 link and get someone to solder the x1.5 link to make this the new amplifier for IDC, this should hopefully increase the flow and i'll see some bars on the graph when i test or drive. is this the right spot?
I will get this setup today.


i'm not sure which version gauge it is, i can pull it out but it requires alot of stripping, the whole front face comes off, radio and evc come out, aircon vents and then need to remove the whole pod, if we can pick it up off the serial number of the unit that would be great, otherwise i'll strip it out tomorrow.

Thanks again for all your help, def making progress and understand the system alot more now!!

Just as a thought, the I was looking at the system this morning, The FAV could be mounted more securely, it is pretty tight but i'm thinking of ways to do it differently. Would this cause any funny results?

oh btw i looked at the wiring, yes sadly these are all USDM, they differ from ADM and EDM. If it's helpful i can send you what i used and you can make it into a better readable diagram and then post that for 06 ADM

[Richard L]

There is still something wrong somewhere. I have a few questions and tests. DOn;y make the mods for the time being.

1. Are all the trimmers and jumper links in the default positions (12 o'clock, gold dot on top)
2. Can you measure test pin 16 for me at idle, blip the throttle hard
3. Does the green led on the circuit board blink at idle.

The "B" lead will only stay on if the flow is inside the WL and WH after triggering. The v12 has two yellow leds. On water injection and water level.

I would like to have a copy of the subaru wiring diagram so I can make drawing for the ADM. please email them to me richard-at-aquamist.co.uk

[naviuk]

Originally Posted by Richard L

There is still something wrong somewhere. I have a few questions and tests. DOn;y make the mods for the time being.

1. Are all the trimmers and jumper links in the default positions (12 o'clock, gold dot on top)
2. Can you measure test pin 16 for me at idle, blip the throttle hard
3. Does the green led on the circuit board blink at idle.

The "B" lead will only stay on if the flow is inside the WL and WH after triggering. The v12 has two yellow leds. On water injection and water level.

I would like to have a copy of the subaru wiring diagram so I can make drawing for the ADM. please email them to me richard-at-aquamist.co.uk

Sure thing, will do the drawings for you and mark exactly where i put what. hopefully it will help someone else, but to be truly honest, i would still check the car before i blindly did it again. just for piece of mind

Ok i have done the tests.

1. I put everything back to the way it was when i got the unit. all jumpers and dials, i also set the dials on the gauge to stock.

2. Test pin 16 at idle is about 0.11v and on blipping the throttle the most i saw was 0.58v but it varied, i kept hitting it a few times and it was anywhere between 0.11 and 0.47's, max to 0.58.

3. Yip, green light pulses at idle. i have done a vid to show what it does
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxUHS...ature=youtu.be

[Richard L]

I just thought, are the fuel injectors the low impedance type?

[naviuk]

Originally Posted by Richard L

I just thought, are the fuel injectors the low impedance type?

Hey Richard.

Nope

they are stock high impedance ones, they are just decapped to allow greater flow.

Did the voltage test on pin16 show you anything?

By the water level light coming on, does this not show a failsafe mode?

Thanks!!

[Richard L]

The voltage at test point 16 is about right at idle or un-loaded. Is it possible to make a measurement whilst you are putting in some serious load (on boost).

[naviuk]

Hey Richard

Shew it;s been awhile, my car has been to Julian in Cape town and has been back for awhile now, we got the boost issue resolved and now after doing a daily driver map i start playing with the Aquamist again... Julian found the issue to be a flow sensor from before. i think he swapped this out and it has been working since.

I have made some changes and wanted to run a few things past you.

1. We broke the X1.0 and soldered the X1.5 link.
2. I removed the 0.8 Jet from testing and have put in the 1mm and the 0.9mm, 0.9 Pre intercooler and 1mm post intercooler.

I set the gain to the lowest and have slowly moved up the gain till i either saw the temps dropping alot or the car choked, i haven't hit choke yet and am at 75% gain. the temps drop off nicely on boost and there is no choke, the issue i get is the bars are almost all lit and the w-injection and water level light come on at the top end of RPM.

What i have seen now is my IDC is higher then it was before, it's on 55% thats the max it has hit. this is on my low boost map.

I'm planning to go to high boost soon and i expect at least 70% based on what i'm seeing now.

I wanted to know, would it be worth me going back to just the X1.0 link? am i maxing out the system by using the X1.5 and IDC is 55%?

if i hit the 70% or higher, i'm assuming that with the 1.5 i will hit over the 95% threshold and max the system??

My aim for the mist is using it on highboost, low boost is a side show. so whatever settings i have need to be optimal on high boost (1.5bar)

Thanks!!

[Richard L]

Ideally, put the spare jumper link to FDC (Fuel duty cycle). This will hijack the gauge to read IDC% instead of water flow. Take the car out for a WOT drive and tell me what is the maximum bar displayed. Judge your 1x or x1.5 link from there on.

[naviuk]

Originally Posted by Richard L

Ideally, put the spare jumper link to FDC (Fuel duty cycle). This will hijack the gauge to read IDC% instead of water flow. Take the car out for a WOT drive and tell me what is the maximum bar displayed. Judge your 1x or x1.5 link from there on.

Hey Richard,

Thanks for this, sorry took so long to come back to you, i did the change and at 1.1 bar boost pressure, the gauge reads 2 bars from full, so i'm pretty confident that i will need to go back to x1.0 to benefit from the setup when upping the boost.

Would it be best to just nip the solder link between the two connections on the 1.5 or heat it up first and try remove it, then link the x1.0 again?

Thanks!!