Smart injection

[Kapt. Q]

Hi Richard, I'm not clever, but I have the help of clever people! I did have to spend a lot of time polishing it though, lol.

The run to the injectors from the valve will be about 30-40cm for pre turbo and 40-50cm for post IC.

The fan is wired to the pump so it only runs with it. It has a seperate fuse and is adjustable.

Cheers!

[Richard L]

The distance is fine.

Can't wait for the system in action.

[Kapt. Q]

I have secured a Brabus 101PS turbo for the project that is capable of over the 130hp that the regular Garrett G12 is rated for. It uses ceramic coatings to reduce heat transfer.

Cheers!

[Richard L]

This project is getting more and more serious. What bhp/ton will your car be at 101PS?

[Kapt. Q]

Hi Richard, I am already running about 101PS now, perhaps a little more, this is on the middle range 'Roadster' turbo (stock 80hp) that is good to about 110hp, The 101 Turbo allows me to potentially get more when tuned (130+) because it boosts higher and it's wastgate has a stiffer spring.
Right now it is about 135hp per ton. If we can get 130hp that would about 180hp per ton.

Today we hooked up the ECU and we think it went well, we will test that tomorrow!

There were three wires to the MAP sensor and hopefully we got the right one, lol, we started engine and chose the wire that had varying voltage with throttle being applied.

The Boost control solenoid was cut and spliced in, here again it had two wires and we did not think it mattered which one??


The car still boosts with the wire cut, but only to 0.5bar, I need to look into this as I don't think it should even do this, The ECU is monitoring the cuircit and after a little while throws the trouble code P0244 which relates to the values being out of range, ie it's open cuircit/shorted or signal out of range.
Funnily it did boost in first gear and second once or twice???? (WI is turned off).

What do you think???

Injector hook up was easy.

Nozzle carriers are both installed and awaiting nozzles (after purging, etc.).

So, more progress tomorrow, hopefully even up and running less tunning.

Cheers!

[Richard L]

1. At idle, the right one will read ~1.8-2V.

2. You need to cut the wire that pulses. The other one is +12V supply.
After you have cut the "pulsed" wire. white goes to the ECU side and brown goes to the BCV.

3. When the wire is cut, the boost should go down to the wastegate setting. Does it sound about right?

4. If the engine ECU throws a code, you can link up the "DR1" jumper link. This brings in the dummy resistor. If it does not work, you have probably wired up the BCV splice incorrectly.

Continue to update.

[M-W-I system]

Good work looking good

[Kapt. Q]

Thank you M W I system.

Hi Richard,
I thought when things weren't right with the BCV still boosting, limp home mode is usually weaker, right now with half a bar boost it is still quite peppy untill the RPM picks up. I thought that perhaps I should try the other wire , I will check the voltages/pulsing as you say. In my youth a solenoid was just a coil of wire that was energised or not and cycling was something done on a bike!!! The sophistication of even basic cars today is astounding and makes me feel old. I can still remember when CIS was cutting edge, miss that Mk1 Sirrocco, lol.

So glad for the help.

I'll post more tomorrow and some pictures.

Cheers!

[Richard L]

If the BCV has a plug, it will be much easier. Here is how:

Unplug the BCV. ignition on, one of the wire will be 12v and the other near nothing. The pulse wire will be the "0v" one. Do not use the DR1 until yuou have sorted thje wiring out first.

What is the standard boost?

But the BCV is unplugged, you should run wastegate pressure. Let me know what the boost is when you unplug the BCV.

[Kapt. Q]

Hi Richard,

Yes it has a plug, I will check now to see what a deactivated BCV allows the engine to boost at and compare, if it is different, I'll make sure that the wire I used from the BCVis the pulsing one.

I notice that all kit components are of the highest quality, even the wire, rare to buy things these days and not find 'made in China labels' everywhere!

Here's a picture of the work yesterday. Things are tight, just to remove the airbox for injector placement required removing undertray and loosening rear subframe allowing it and the engine to drop quite a bit for clearence.



Thanks again.

Cheers!