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  #31  
Old 06-11-2004, 11:41 AM
Richard L Richard L is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard L
...I can't help making a comment about your compressor wheel (avator), isn't it about time you change the bearing? one day it will fly off the edge of the screen, I hope it won't be mine.
It's perfectly balanced, Richard, freshly reconditioned. :lol:
Apparently it's the shadows that move around, giving the impression of imbalance. I'll see if I can fix this, but it's purely cosmetic. It holds boost fine!
It appeares that the world is spinning around when you focus on the shadow - perhaps it did - otherwise the wheel is perfectly balanced, as long as you are make good boost, that is all that matters.
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  #32  
Old 06-11-2004, 11:43 AM
Richard L Richard L is offline
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Originally Posted by PuntoRex
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gelf
...
I can only say that i percieved drop in performance with all jets, no matter what size (at WOT). At say 3/4 throttle im sure i expierenced increased performance with the 0.6 and 0.7 jets.

Not conclusive im afraid :?
That's totally unexpected!! :shock:

With pre-comp injection only, bogging down shouldn't happen, at least on those smaller jets.

Would it be "too cold" of the incoming air? At 5~15C, not quite, I guess.

It's odd!

If we can see the A/F info might helps.
I just remember the days when I tune cars ( too long to remember when) without and a/f ratio meter lambda probes. The throttle is a good indicator on a/f ratio.

If you are experiencing less power at WOT them 3/4 throttle, it could be your fuel supply is running out. You can also test it by applying full throttle first and slowing easing the paddle out and you will experience a surge of power starting to develop. If this is the case, you should consider incease you fuel pressure temporarily and see if it makes any difference.

Another common cause is the airflow meter maxing out, you will notice that almost all injectors runs out of duty at 4000-5000 rpm - this is just a electro-mechanical contraint - the opening and shutting time of the fuel injector dedcates.

The System 2d has a fuel injector duty cyclee monitor circuitry in-build. You can connect a volt meter (analogue type is easier to read) to the purple wire and see how wide the injector are opening eniminate the "airflow sensor" maxing-out theory. 0-5V = 0-100% duty cycle - 5% accurate but good enough for this purpose.
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  #33  
Old 06-11-2004, 06:56 PM
JohnA JohnA is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard L
..It appeares that the world is spinning around when you focus on the shadow - perhaps it did - otherwise the wheel is perfectly balanced, as long as you are make good boost, that is all that matters.
I've edit it a bit and it's slightly better.
Still some shadow spinning, but boy does it boost faster now. Less inertia.
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  #34  
Old 06-11-2004, 07:24 PM
Richard L Richard L is offline
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Sorry, I like the other one better :lol:
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  #35  
Old 06-11-2004, 08:14 PM
TurboGTi TurboGTi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard L
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard L
...I can't help making a comment about your compressor wheel (avator), isn't it about time you change the bearing? one day it will fly off the edge of the screen, I hope it won't be mine.
It's perfectly balanced, Richard, freshly reconditioned. :lol:
Apparently it's the shadows that move around, giving the impression of imbalance. I'll see if I can fix this, but it's purely cosmetic. It holds boost fine!
It appeares that the world is spinning around when you focus on the shadow - perhaps it did - otherwise the wheel is perfectly balanced, as long as you are make good boost, that is all that matters.

Talk about OFF topic :?

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  #36  
Old 07-11-2004, 12:58 AM
PuntoRex PuntoRex is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard L
....

The System 2d has a fuel injector duty cyclee monitor circuitry in-build. You can connect a volt meter (analogue type is easier to read) to the purple wire and see how wide the injector are opening eniminate the "airflow sensor" maxing-out theory. 0-5V = 0-100% duty cycle - 5% accurate but good enough for this purpose.
I've done that already.

It frequently rushes to 80% DC when I rev it to the red line. I even saw 90% once or twice :shock:

I guess the poor little motor has been strained for all these years. Maybe I'll need bigger fuel injector for the coming pre-comp injection.
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  #37  
Old 07-11-2004, 01:40 AM
PuntoRex PuntoRex is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gelf
....

Yes, boost is contolled directly by the ecu.

I suspect the boost control portion in the ECU is affetced by the temp senser. Maybe I'm totally wrong. But nowadays electronic controls on cars are really complex.

When you're on 3/4 throttle, where you sensed gain, was the boost any different from how it was before?

(on my modified manual boost control, I can get 90% boost on part throttle)
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  #38  
Old 07-11-2004, 10:32 AM
Gelf Gelf is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PuntoRex
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gelf
....

Yes, boost is contolled directly by the ecu.

I suspect the boost control portion in the ECU is affetced by the temp senser. Maybe I'm totally wrong. But nowadays electronic controls on cars are really complex.

When you're on 3/4 throttle, where you sensed gain, was the boost any different from how it was before?

(on my modified manual boost control, I can get 90% boost on part throttle)
Yesterday while i was recorded temp data, i observed that i could hold 15 psi at 3/4 throttle, but if do the same at WOT, im only seeing 10 or 11 psi. Ive moved the jets as far back from the turbo, now i need to move the temp sensor as close to the throttle plate as possable to see if that helps. (Water vapour effecting the sensor ?) Ive always felt power was down at WOT since i had it remapped (generic) going back for a full RR remap very soon, FOC too to correct this issue.

Richard said i could be running lean at WOT, i will get hold of volt meter and check the IDC. I thought leaning fuel was the idea though, because of over fueling.

I only experienced bogging (hesitation) yesterday using twin 0.9 jetss :shock:, i know thats alot of water, but i thought id go all the way to maximum injection while i had the recording equipment running.

With twin 0.8 jets, the car really pulled in 5th gear above 4K rpm, (at 3/4 throttle opening)
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  #39  
Old 07-11-2004, 12:24 PM
hotrod hotrod is offline
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Default turbo max flow

Keep in mind what your discribing could be due to the fact the turbo has reached its maximum sustainable flow. If the engine could use 400 cfm of air at 20 psi, and the turbo can only deliver 360 cfm of air at 20 psi your going to end up with a manifold pressure equal to the point where the turbo can deliver some value in between. For example if the turbo hits max flow of 380 cfm at 17 psi and the the engine wants 380 cfm at 17 psi, that is what the boost will drop to.


On the stock WRX turbo boost taper at high rpm is mostly a function of this situation where the engine needs more air than the turbo can deliver.

Larry
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  #40  
Old 09-11-2004, 04:39 AM
PuntoRex PuntoRex is offline
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I got an idea on the injection method :idea:
(or I'm not sure has anyone proposed this before? )


example:

main: 1* 0.6mm jet at pre-throttle
aux1: 1* 0.5mm jet at pre-throttle
aux2: 1* 0.5mm jet at pre-compressor


Stage1:
Main & aux1 are triggered by boost simultaneously.

Stage2:
Up to the pre-set rpm (or other conditions), aux1 switches to aux2, while main jet still dose its job continuously.


Reasons & tips:

1. At the fast-rising of boost in the midrange, engine needs water the most for det control. Full cooling capacity is used on this.

2. As the rpm up to a point, huge mass air flow makes compressor efficiency suffer, part of the water is switched onto here to give helps.

3. Total water flow vs air & fuel maintain within a certain range.

4. Jet sizes can be widely variable. Different effects & preferences can be played around.

5. RPM switch can co-work with other trigger, e.g., temp senser or anything else.


Minimum h/w requirement:

1. Aquamist 2D system with 3 jets
2. 1-in/2-out switchable splitter (or 2 solenoids? )
3. RPM switch
4. Others as you like....


Seems insteresting.
Any thoughts?

:razz:
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