No bars on gauge.

[Dave355]

Have copy and pasted an email sent to Richard so i don't have to re write,can't seem to get in touch by email so joined the forum to try and resolve my problem.Open to advice from any members who have come across the same issue.System was purchased over 12 months a go so this is probably the right place to sort it out.


Hello Richard
I didn’t receive a reply to the email below but i’m hoping it was just missed as i know your busy.I would like to work through some issues that are stopping me from getting the car tuned.Are you able to help me? I have a breakdown of what is happening and now know why it’s being triggered because of the difference in voltage between + and – wires from injector.You helped another Aussie on your forum that had a Datsun 1600 named Orlando.(Bottom of page 4 in HFS-3 section of forum)He had the same issues due to an Autronic ECU having the wiring to power the injectors only being activated after cranking.I also have an Autronic with a fuel pump relay that turns the power off after initial priming of the fuel system.So my understanding is i need to leave the gauge switched off until engine is started so pump doesn’t get activate after diagnostic phase, which could result in hydro lock.The other option would be to take power after relay so it powers up once cranked and gauge could be left on?Obviously gauge could not be used in #2 position.I there another option by using the green harness or was that because of the low impedance injectors?


All three leds illuminated at pre crank position.Once engine started green led flickers faster with rpm and other two red leds turn off.Linked IDC test pins show full bars on gauge,so full duty cycle with key in #2 position.
Ignition to pre crank position.All harnesses connected, gauge on.Pump starts to spray.NO BARS SHOW ON GAUGE. I haven’t needed to use SYS link as pump is activated anyway.
Everything works as per instructions up to testing by IDC with jet on windscreen.This worked as described but no bars show on gauge when test spraying for IDC.
This is a new install.
Injectors are high impedance.
I have dismantled the FAV and there are no debris in the filter and turbine spins freely.Tank filter was checked and no problems here also.
S is illuminated on gauge so flow sensor is detected.
SC adjustment makes no difference.

Have cut the 1.0 and soldered the 1.5 pre amp gain as per your advice,as not using all of the 1000cc injectors on gasoline.

Contoller's serial No:102083 red board.

Is their a test i can do with a DMM on your diagnostic table to see if yellow WFS is working correctly,or do you think it could be a different problem?
Sorry for the long email but i wanted to give you as much info as possible to work with.
Hoping you can work through this with me.
Regards
Dave

[Dave355]

Any chance you could reply to this Richard?Still looking to sort this problem out so i can move on to tuning.

[Richard L]

I was away for the last two weeks. But I could not find an email form you. What is you email address so I can check back.

Addressing the issues:

1. Spray at start up: wire the red of the grey harness to the injector(+) and green to the injector(-). This would solve your pre-crank problem.

2. Blow intro the detached flow sensor tube and let me know if you hear whirling sound. Make sure the sensor C-clip is in position.

3. When you do the test spray are there any fluid coming out of the jet?

[Dave355]

Hello Richard
Thought you might have been away.Thanks for the reply.
The 3 issues you have highlighted have been discussed in the first post but I will cover them again so we can keep a record of areas checked.

1. I have an Autronic ECU that has the + injector wire connected to the fuel pump + wire after a relay.This relay activates in pre crank position for a few seconds to prime the fuel system and then cuts power until engine is cranked.Red wire on grey harness takes power from ignition wire from ECU.I understand the difference in voltage between the two activates water pump as controller gets a 100% duty cycle signal.Other option is to take power after relay but system won't turn on until engine is cranked.Any other alternatives other than a re wire of ECU?

2. Flow sensor has been dismantled and no debris found,whirling sound can be clearly heard when blown through."C"clip is in position.

3. Test spray shows full cone of spray with jet and good stream of water out hose end with no jet.

Seems the sensor can't detect flow through FAV.Faulty WFS?

Email address: info@southerncrosskitchens.com.au

Regards
Dave

[Richard L]

I think it is best to return the controller back to me for a health check. I will use a new sensor cable and the store flow maps in the controller.

It is possible to damage the flow sensor cable by plugged into the FAV slots. But It will be clear when I have the controller in hand.