HFS-3 Eaton Charged 1600

[Caspergti]

Will do that now. i will send it same day delivery if i can, id appreciate it if you could do the same when it is repaired.

I have a rolling road session booked and paid for on the 23/8/10. I hope you can repair it and get it back to me by then.

John

[Richard L]

Will do for sure! Do forget yo include the mailing address.

[Caspergti]

Thanks, it will be with you tomorrow before 12.

I have included the return address on it, also can you reflash the controller so it accepts the lower flow rates? i am only using a 0.5mm jet.

John

[Richard L]

I would use a bigger jet and reduce the flow electronically.

Richard

[Caspergti]

what would you suggest?

Im running 4 380cc injectors which will probably be used to about 80% duty using a 60/40 meth to water mix.

John

[Richard L]

A supcharged engine normally produces more heated air than a turbo due to bulk mass of the housing. At low throttle opening typically cruising at high speed, the temperature of SC housing is going rise rapidly due to lack of cold air passing through it, this is on top of the SC efficiency.

The moment you snap open the throttle, the first gust of charge air coming out of the SC is going to be very hot. This may set off knock. Once knock has started, it often continues.

I belive you need a 0.6mm nozzle minimum. As the HFS-3 is progressive it is unlikely to over inject. I will aslo send you a smaller flow FAV so that you will get a more linearly and progressive flow. The valve we supplied with the kit is capable of flowing 1600cc/min. Although you can use a restrictor but nothing like a custom valve that is tailored to your range.

We just return the entire FAV assembly back to me.

[Caspergti]

Thanks Richard,
My plan is now to run w/i all the time, and just have a second map in place for the failsafe.

So I'll use a 0.6 jet, and control the flow by adjusting the gain, I take it that it's also less likely to block the jet when using a larger orifice?

I've put my number in the box being returned to to you, if you could give me a call when you receive the box that would be greatly appreciated.

John

[Richard L]

0.5mm upwards s large enough for most filtered debris to go through.

I have received your HFS-3 today. I have returned the controller (reflashed) via 1st class post. I have also put in a lower flow FAV and a new molex power harness.

I examined the power connector and cannot found any bad soldering joint. I tested the engaged molex conenctor by pushing and pulling it in all directions, not once has it made a buzz or flicker of any leds. Not sure what happen to you. I took a picture of the soldered joint and you can tell me where the bad workmanship is... The joints are untouched nor tampered with.

When you recieve the unit back, please let me know if the probelm, repeats itself again.

[Caspergti]

Thanks for turning it around so fast.

I really cant understand what was going on, those ate the 4 joints that I thought looked suspect, one of them had a large dull area in the joint.

When I tested it I tested the power coming out of the connector and the power on the board, at the solder joint and that's where I saw my differences, unless it was the molex plug making connection when I spun the board over to test both sides of the joint? I'll replace the connector and loom aswell, see if it sorts out the issue.

Oh and I have a little question regarding the Ecu loom and the power +12v connection (red wire) earlier in the manual it says to use a switched 12v and later on it says to use the positive on the injector? I take it you need the positive on the injector as that's the only way it's going to see the duty. Just want to make sure so I don't damage anything.

[Richard L]

I have also sent you an extra molex harness (power in) just incase one of the pin backed out of the plug. Unfortunately I have not checked other pins and joints as I was very busy for the whole day yesterday, only have time to build a new valve and reflash the controller and did a general test and catch teh 4pm post round.

Anyway, I like to get to the bottom of this. If you have a solder iron, please reflow the suspect joints. Alternatively you can mark it can return the board to me and we do it on the same day return as before. If it is the molex harness, please return it back to me for closer examination.

The HFS-3 receives the main 12V power from the molex connector but it will not be fully connected to the controller until the internal relay is powered up by the grey connector's red wire. This HFS-3 creates it own switched (+) internally rather relies on the users pick the correct switched (+).

Molex harness: any 12V source but preferred a switched +12V so that the controller is totally powered down when the ignition key "off" the pre crank position.

Grey harness: the red wire on this harness powers up the internal relay so the the controller can receive full power from the molex. To ensure that the controller is "only" powered up at the pre-crank key position, the fuel injector (+) is the only place where it can be certain. This red wire only draws 20 mA or so. The other job of this wire is to reference the (+) supply voltage to the fuel injectors, make correction/adjustments to our IDC decoding circuitry's interpretation.

I hope you it make sense to you.