Datsun 1600 HFS3-Help needed

Hey guys,
I have a Datsun 1600 fitted with an FJ20DET. The engine is controlled by an Autronic SM4 and CDI 500 units. After discovering your website and doing some research , I decided that the HFS3 would best suit my upgrade needs.
I have recently purchased and installed the Aquamist HFS3 system in my car. Tonight, while going through power up and testing of the system, I have experienced a few problems. I am using FIDC as the trigger. Steps 1-4 of the power up procedure was successful. After connecting the rest of the harnesses, I attempted to proceed with the manual testing. This is where my problems began. With all the harnesses connected and the ignition turn on to pre-cranking, the system began spraying as soon as it was turned on.The green, amber and red LEDs are also illuminated when the ignition is turned to the pre-crank position.
I disconnect the harnesses and double checked all my wiring. Everything seemed as it should be so I reconnected it all. It did the same thing again so I turn ever thing off and went through the manual again to see it I had missed anything. I came back about 30 mins later and turned the ignition to the pre crank position. The green, amber and red LEDs were again illuminated but this time only the water level LED on the gauge lights up even when the gauge is turned on. I have double checked all the wires and everything look fine.
If anyone call assist me to sort this problem out and get my system working correctly it would be much appreciated.
Thanks, and kind regards,
Orlando

Below is a photo on the unit when the ignition is turn to the pre-cranking position:



Below is a photo of the gauge when its switched on and the ignition is turn to the pre-cranking position:



A few photos of my car:






The water tank hold 17 litres and has good internal baffling. Probably overkill but great piece of mind.


Fav mounted in the engine bay. All plumbed up and ready for testing.

[Richard L]

can you remove the green wire of the grey connector from the fuel injector and let me know if the system still turns at "pre-crank" position.

We will take this one step at a time. Very nice install BTW!

Thanks Richard. I really appreciate you taking the time to assist me. I have been taking my time with this install as i wanted to do it right the first time.

I did as you suggested and disconnected the green wire running to the fuel injector and turned the ignition to the pre-crank position. Non of the 3 LEDs in the control module were illuminated. The gauge was turned on and stayed the same as you see in the picture.

[Richard L]

In this case, there must be some mis-matching of the voltage level of the fuel injector that prematurely triggering the system.

The injector (-) should be the same voltage level as the injector (+) at the pre-crank position. Can you re-locate the red wire of the grey connector to fuel injector (+) and let me know this problem is overcome. Note: provided this is no resistor pack on the (+) leg of the fuel injector.

If you have a spare PWM channel on your ECU, you can create your own WI map.

I had it set up that way initially with the (+) and (-) voltages from injector number one. The system activated in the pre-crank position with this configuration. I then changed the (+) input to the computers ignition 12 volt supply after seeing it set up that way in a few of the wiring diagrams on this forum. In this configuration the system again activated in the pre-crank position once before it stopped working. Now all that happens is what you see in the photos.

[Richard L]

I remembered somer years ago one of our IDC based system has the same problem This due to the voltage on the injector (+12) is much lower than our designed window. The low voltage was caused by running a more power fuel pump on the same supply cable, loading up the circuit.

We solved this problem by extending the lower threshold voltage of the detection circuitry. We can try the same thing here. Are you confident doing some soldering?

Before we are do this please measure the voltage of test point 5, test pin 12 and test point 23 for me at (1) pre-crank position and (2)post-crank position.

[forrest]

WOW, this is really similar to the problem I'm having. You don't have racelogic do you? I just figured out that is contributing to my issues

Cheers Richard. I'm away until Wednesday so I'll try what you have suggested when I get back. Please excuse my ignorance but can you tell me where the 3 test pins are located and how to identify they as I am still learning my way around this system.

The ECU I'm using is an Autronic SM4. It does have a spare PWM output but I wouldn't know how configure it to the aquamist system.
I am confident with a soldering iron too.

[Richard L]

test pin/points are on top of the jumper links, all 30 of them.

I will the best way to modify the circuit your overcome your trigger problem after I have the infos..