FIDC too low for HFS-3 V3

[Chriswolf81]

Hi Richard,

I have been working with Jeff to solve my issues with install, but he stated that we are now in Richard realm and need your help.

Installed HFS-3 on my Evo X. Car is running FIC1100 injectors, but car is only making 400whp on pump. I have an EF-4 sitting in the closet to go on the car, but waiting to build the motor first. So eventually it will be running 500-600 whp. Installed a .9 and a 1.0 jet with no restrictor per Jeff's advise.

Following issue occurs:

The green light inside the controller never flashes. It only lights up solid once I blip the throttle. The amber light comes on when the threshold is reached.

Once road testing, I noticed that I could not set the threshold. It was either too low, where it would activate on any throttle input or too high were it never sprayed. Jeff made me test the pin 16 voltages (Idle .02, blip 1.9, cruise 1.9-2.1, WOT 1.88). He then told me to test injector ohms (15.1-15.3 on all of them).

I guess my FIDC is too low, due to the large injectors?

I am now wondering if I need to cut and link the 1.5x pre amp? This seems to be Jeff's best suggestion at this time, but he mentioned that he is not positive if this will be sufficient.

Do you recommend to do 30% MAP/70% IDC to alleviate this issue if pre-amp doesn't work well enough?

Thanks in advance for your help

[Richard L]

First thing to do. put the spare "PRK" jumper to FDC. This hijacks the dash gauge to read fuel duty cycle %. Let me know what you see at cruising, mid load and wot.

It is most likely be large injectors and low IDC. I have seem this in many EVOs and always end up linking the x1.5. But do the FDC first.

[Chriswolf81]

Originally Posted by Richard L

First thing to do. put the spare "PRK" jumper to FDC. This hijacks the dash gauge to read fuel duty cycle %. Let me know what you see at cruising, mid load and wot.

It is most likely be large injectors and low IDC. I have seem this in many EVOs and always end up linking the x1.5. But do the FDC first.

Richard,

First I only got 2 bars during cruise, mid load and WOT. After the car warmed up more, it seemed to be consistently 3 bars in all stages, cant get to 4 bars. So I guess <50% IDC.

Should I go ahead and cut/solder the link? I soldered all my wires including the ECU wires, but this is scary task for Mr. Shakyhands.

[Richard L]

Looked like you are own less then half of the fuel capacity.

Yes, I think you need to solder the x1.5

1. Cut link with steady hand.
2. Solder fill one pad at a time and then merge (with extra solder). Take you time to ensure the solder is melted and flowing nicely.

[Chriswolf81]

Originally Posted by Richard L

Looked like you are own less then half of the fuel capacity.

Yes, I think you need to solder the x1.5

1. Cut link with steady hand.
2. Solder fill one pad at a time and then merge (with extra solder). Take you time to ensure the solder is melted and flowing nicely.

Thanks Richard. I will give this my best shot. What tool do you cut the link with? pointy wire cutters?

[Richard L]

I use a scalpel at work. You can use a pin.

[Chriswolf81]

Originally Posted by Richard L

I use a scalpel at work. You can use a pin.

Richard, I had the link soldered on, but wanted to scrape some of the side as it was touching the right 1.0 pad. As I shaved some solder off the side the solder came off and took the golden square of the board with it. Did I mess it up?

[Richard L]

I cannot see the image the well. the x1.5 pad seemed to be missing? am I seeing things?

[Richard L]

Did also prick off the other thin tracks other than the x1?

[Chriswolf81]

Yup the pad came off with the solder. I only cut the left to right connection on the 1.0.
Not sure what the thin tracks are. Larger image attached