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  #21  
Old 21-10-2004, 09:22 PM
TurboGTi TurboGTi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastAOD
I'll share my notes....(I am by no means a water pro)....LOL

I have only used water. No mixtures as of yet...

The 1 day i tested it was 105* F. The water in my tank was about 135* F. On a forced induction motor @14psi i lowered the intake temps 70* F. From 250* F to 180*.....

I inject my water into my blower, to atomize it. So even if it was cold water, it would be heated up by the time it was compressed through the blower....So i havent ever tried that...
I'm happy that your sharing this information with us ... i am sopposed to have tried this with my system, but i still haven't been able to do so.

I did try using cold water once with a good seat of the pants result, but i don't have any numbers for that run.

I still have issues to sort out and until then i have to rely on your guys for help

Keep it flowing
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  #22  
Old 09-01-2005, 09:13 PM
victorkish3 victorkish3 is offline
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I have tried chilling a mix of 25meth/75water but as yet have no container to hold this in apart from the usual secondary plastic washer bottle.

The mix was chilled to -16 deg c. Anything lower than this made it start to freeze. I was obviously limited as the temperature started to rise as soon as I put it in. However, I did have an interesting 'moment' with a Ferrari 355 and felt the benefit for a few moments.

I checked the temperature by the most scientific method available immediately after (dipping in the finger!) and it still felt quite cold considering that the ambient temperature was hot and after the 'Ferrari moment', the engine was hotter still!
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  #23  
Old 15-10-2005, 02:56 PM
Rootzz06 Rootzz06 is offline
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I thought that you want the water to evaporate as completely as possible for cooling.Isnt evaporation enabled first by fine atomisation and second the water increasing in temp?Will colder water slow the evaporation rate?Maybe colder water will enable to water to stay as a liquid longer and allow the water to travel further through the intake track before evaporating giving it more "hang time" and covering more area before it evaporates.This may help cooling.In my application,spraying through my roots s/c for now--I want the water to be completely evaporated asap.Does anyone know about how long it takes for the water to evaporate completely--for example how far it travels before it is no longer in liquid form or does it make it all the way to the cumbustion chamber as a liquid?sorry to ramble on but this may help me with injector placement.
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  #24  
Old 04-04-2006, 06:55 PM
Performance Driven Performance Driven is offline
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in my opion cooling the water temp to much would hurt atomization and overall performance of the kit. i come to these conclusions base on the experience on the dyno i have with cars. if the engine is to cold and i do a pull it will obviously not make the power that it will if it was in its operating temp. ive made 20 whp less just from doing pulls 3degrees before operating temp due to non- complete fuel atomization. . id assume the same factors would take place in shooting ice cold water into an intake charge. i will be testing this therory in due time and i will post my results. phil
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  #25  
Old 28-04-2006, 02:37 PM
simple simple is offline
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Most of new cars have air conditioners our days. And it is usually runs during hot days when cooling of the intake charge is needed the most.
Now, the discharge pipe from air conditioner usually sub-zero degrease C. Why not use the left over ?cold? to cool WI storage tank or flow line, or copy Jaguar?s 1977 technology and cool fuel before it get?s injected.
This will have sell?f levelling effect ? in summer when it is hot you will turn IC on and cool the fuel as well. And in winter ? WI is cool anyway.
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  #26  
Old 12-05-2006, 02:40 AM
TurboGTi TurboGTi is offline
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its been a while since i posted here, but i still believe that chilled water should improve the detonation point in an engine due to cooler water and hence greater cooling energy.

One of these day i'll try it ..its been awhile
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  #27  
Old 23-12-2006, 07:49 PM
WW_VRS WW_VRS is offline
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Could use an inline cooler, perhaps a Perrier element, although that would use a fair chunk of electrical power. As long as the 'hot side' has sufficient airflow going over it I reckon it would give a nice amount of chillin'. You'd need a thermostat to avoid overcooling though
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