RICESP Water Injected RX7

[Grant M]

Originally Posted by madbouncy

You should check out this thread on porting

http://www.nopistons.com/showthread.php?t=29264

It was started by Judge Ito but later on Rice Racing posts that he's been using the same port for a long time and has some pictures. It doesn't necessarly mean it's the port in the engine he is running now but he said he had been using that port for 11 years so he obviously is a very big fan of it and is probably doing updates to the port on the engine to experiment. Post 75 I believe has the pictures I mentioned.

That post shows rices street port, prety much as far as you can go with a street port. The porting that is currently in his car is completely stock from factory Mazda port. He is going to be changing the style of the port but keeping the huge mid range characteristics of the standard ports he has had so far. I'm just trying to work out how much porting he's going to undertake

[reid-o]

I'm about to begin spraying pre turbo after being inspired by your setup. I'm running an AEM EMS 2 (this is on a Subaru with a gt35r).
I have a question about the data indicators you are using for adjusting spray volume. i've read through your thread, and I have a few questions if you don't mind me asking. Aside from IAT, what indicators should I be looking for assuming that the bulk of my tuning will be on the road. I can run my logs though a dyno simulator, but I can't always use the same stretch of road, which is important for such software (the police are pretty quick to respond to such shenanigans where I live). I understand that all setups are different and there are so many variables that generalizations are not often helpful. But to get started, am I looking to inject the least amount of water to lower IAT that the ignition system can ignite? Should IAT be the dominant indicator for initial tuning of flow rates?

My process for post compressor WI tuning was as follows:
1) Stabilize afr 2) note EGT at baseline run (rich) 3) raise timing and track power shifts 4) repeat with steps 1-3 with leaner afr 5) raise boost presusre and start again
However I'm not sure if this process will work when changing water flow rate may alter the compressor output.

[RICE RACING]

Injection volume for me is about the amount I need to ward off detonation, while I do not release this information and have not for a few years now you can get an idea from reading my other earlier posts (which suffices most people and their efforts).

For really high end endeavors you can refer to some well known parameters that are over 100 years old. These will be your guide as to what and how much you need to be looking at. Things that can confuse you are what I have spoken/typed about at length before, and the fundamental is lack of ignition energy to run a true water injection engine. As a guide it is not un normal to be at 50% of your fuel supply when talking mass flow. What percentage either side depends on your own set up and many variables.

There are some general guides I have given in this thread over the many pages that give some key points to aim for in terms of excess fuel ratios that will make the engine "come alive" for a set or fixed level of boost, same for ignition timing. It is best for you to start off on a well known side and work your way up to it as I did in this chronology of my own company car effort, the moral should be to you or anyone else take small steps and verify your own progress, its part of the fun of doing it anyway.

A good basis to start from is this:
* Have a very over engineered ignition system, that delivers HIGH amounts of amps (test this yourself if you are in doubt of dubious vendors ratings, I did by buying my own pecoscope and building my own custom ignition set up)
* Test your own water injection flow rates, so you know exactly how much goes into your engine (take your system as fitted in your car and test that on the bench)
* Pick your test methods and stick to them, repeatable tests even if only having meaning to you are much more valuable than something that satisfies someone else needs.
* Neglect your ignition strength at your own peril, many MANY people rubbish water injection cause they try to use inferior latest jizz spec inductive based rubbish, you either need a Magneto ! or a proven high amp capable CDI to do water injection justice, anything else will not deliver proper results like what you have be reading in this thread.
* p.s. do not waste your time trying to tune to an EGT level, this is much more complex than I can do justice in my one reply to your request for guidance, but you are much better off focusing on the target excess fuel ratio, and fluid injection amount to ward off detonation. And following the MBT timing recommendation I gave a few pages back when someone else asked.

Hope this if of some use to you. If you start a thread here pm me and I will make sure to respond further if I can be of any help to you, otherwise I'll follow your progress

[reid-o]

Thanks for the tips. I think I can manage all testing except for the ignition system. I really like your ignition setup. That seems like the one sticking point right now, as to test the system I have to purchase it. I'm looking at the MW setup right now. I'll look into it.

[Grant M]

Any further progress Peter? Or are you progressing with your new project?

[RICE RACING]

Originally Posted by Grant M

Any further progress Peter? Or are you progressing with your new project?

No have just been driving it as is for last few months (going on for 3 years straight now).
I have plans for the road car to do some minor upgrades as mentioned before, nothing wholesale as its a fantastic combination, the technology out of RICESP has made its way across the globe with allot of people using my mapping and set up specifics, so am happy to help people out that way with my old stuff
If I get time from my stupid schedule I'd like to do the upgrades over the Christmas break, if not I'll just keep driving it
The other project is long term, undercover, kunts will know about it though when I unleash it, rest assured lol..... will be like aliens landed hahaha

[Grant M]

Hi Peter do you have a shot of your WI nozzle from inside your intake setup? Going to be mounting mine the same as you if I can, I have plenty of room to do it

[RICE RACING]

Originally Posted by Grant M

Hi Peter do you have a shot of your WI nozzle from inside your intake setup? Going to be mounting mine the same as you if I can, I have plenty of room to do it

I will take some detailed pictures for you and post them up in the next few days.

[RICE RACING]

So I changed out my turbo a while ago but never shared why I say turbo bags are a kuuuuunt @! on turbo rotaries, here is why....

Perfect tuning, egt never over 950deg C (front and rear same) on up to 36psi boost pressure, see EGT probes conditions after 3+ years and 30,000km of running at ~600bhp for most of this time

This is what will happen to a high nickel content turbine housing when insulated with a turbo bag! LONG TERM! I appreciate not many people in the rotary don't have the ability/skills to run cars at high power like I do and over multiple years and 10's of thousands of kilometers but so you don't have to read about it in a text book or some crack pot internet theory here is the proof from someone who actually has done this

Inconel turbine wheel fine, no housing warping, but very high degradation of the tangential divider and inner and outer surface of the turbine housing as you can see in pictures.

[Grant M]

That looks like someone has done bird shit welding in there! What's happened too it? What turbo did you swap too and why?