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  #51  
Old 19-07-2017, 09:40 AM
rotrex rotrex is offline
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Default Re: Nozzle spray angle...

Again,
please measure the pressure after the throttle body before swapping air filters.
Only takes a few minutes and gets you a real idea how good or bad that or the new filter is.

You can literally route a silicone pipe through the passenger window. it is only a temporary measurement.
Hook up a analog gauge from eBay and record it with your cell phone. After than watching the gauge at WOT.

Just swapping and hoping things get better is the most expensive way to do things.
This is why most car dealers this days lost the art of properly diagnosing issues.
They read codes and swap expensive ECUs and other modules to only find that it was a single blown or corroded fuse socket in the end or water in spark plug holes.
They don't care and write you a 1000$ bill that should have been a $50 bill with common (car) sense.
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  #52  
Old 20-07-2017, 02:15 AM
jondee86 jondee86 is offline
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Thumbs up Re: Nozzle spray angle...

Quote:
Originally Posted by rotrex View Post
Please measure the pressure after the throttle body before swapping air filters.
Good suggestion Since the pressure loss of the ducting between the throttle
plate and the s/c inlet is fixed, I shall tap a fitting into the throttlebody in front
of the throttle plate. That way I can measure the pressure loss of the section
of ducting with filter that will be changed.

I have found cheap China made digital differential pressure meters on Aliexpress,
and this gives me a good reason to buy one, plus an infrared thermometer for
reading the temperature from each cylinder at the exhaust manifold.

Cheers... jondee86
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  #53  
Old 16-08-2017, 01:23 AM
jondee86 jondee86 is offline
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Smile Re: Nozzle spray angle...

Existing tapping was for the evap system and read manifold pressure at low
throttle openings, so not suitable for reading intake pressure drop. I drilled and
tapped the throttle body for a new barb and used that. You can see it in this
pic of the new intake system...



Ran tests with the OEM filter and intake system and then with the new system.
The results turned out like this...

Intake Pressure Drop
Apexi Intake; 1.43kPa @ 7490rpm
OEM System: 5.91kPa @ 7480rpm

Engine Manifold Pressure
Apexi Intake: 143.3kPa @ 7490rpm
OEM System: 136.4kPa @ 7480rpm

So by reducing the intake pressure drop by 4.48kPa (0.65psi) I gained 6.9kPa
or exactly 1.0psi of boost I am more than happy with these results. When
working with small capacity engines like the 4AGE, every little bit counts !!!

Cheers... jondee86

Last edited by jondee86; 26-08-2017 at 03:01 AM. Reason: More information added...
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  #54  
Old 26-08-2017, 08:55 AM
jondee86 jondee86 is offline
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Posts: 38
Default Re: Nozzle spray angle...

Getting some heat transfer into the alloy intake tube as it is resting on the
top radiator hose. Going to look for a different hose with a shape that will
allow it to clear the intake tube. Always something else

Cheers... jondee86
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  #55  
Old 30-08-2017, 09:36 AM
rotrex rotrex is offline
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Default Re: Nozzle spray angle...

1 PSI for free :-)
It looks like you are about half way there.
I'd have a close look at the tubing past the TB and any related edges, ridges or couplings to the intake of the SC.
The SC intake itself may also be restrictive due to tight corners or edges.


The same is true for the SC outlet to the intake manifold. I'd check for imperfections. The outlet is not as sensitive as the intake side regarding losses, but still.

I am sure with an other close look and a little fettling of the pipes and couplers you might find that other missing PSI or 2.

Heat transfer though this pipe is largely irrelevant except at prolonged idle and for at the first few seconds in after driving off in city traffic.
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  #56  
Old 02-09-2017, 03:25 AM
jondee86 jondee86 is offline
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Default Re: Nozzle spray angle...

Unfortunately I think that the ducting between the throttlebody and the
head is about as good as it is going to get. I did a bit of porting on the
short side radius where the discharge manifold meets the s/c mounting
plate and on the intake manifold where it meets the ducting. Removed
any weld that broke thru into the ducting and generally tried to get the
coupled joins lined up and as close together as practical.

Any further improvement will be hard to come by and at this stage I must
settle for what I have. The next few months will be dedicated to refining
my tune and ensuring that the engine operates safely under all conditions.

Cheers... jondee86
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