Installation and first system testing

[GCCR]

I have a system 2c with a Race spec pump - bought second hand. I've wired everything up and now want to check that the pump pumps water under pressure properly. To begin I just connected the 1 and 3 inputs to the pump to 12V + and -. The pump runs but does not suck in the water much less squirt it out under pressure.
I've tried with a non return valve on the inlet side and bled all the way to the pump inlet ..... and with the water container about 1 ft above the pump but it doesn't seem to work - despite the noise from the pump.
Can anyone suggest what else I should be doing to check the pump functions properly ? Before I send back to ERL for checking that is. :cry:

[Tjabo]

Not much (or ANY) activity on this board, huh? What a pity, this board should be the best for discussion of this type.

[GCCR]

Hi again.......

Turns out the pump was much too dry after standing for years before I fitted it. The helpful fellow in Aquamist suggested a syringe full of water which did the trick!

Now my next issue, which ought to be simple for those in the know.....

My aquamist system is deployed on a Racecar 600BHP Diamond Turbo ALMS type engine with MoTeC M800. It has unacceptable knock at high boost so I am limited at the moment to around 1.5 BAR. I'm fairly happy that I can map WI to overcome this, but I'm concerned about a failsafe? I do have a 0-8v feed from the stop valve, but the voltage info I'm getting from it merely increases roughly in proprtion with the High Speed Valve pulses not when there is no pressure in the system.

What I need is something to tell me / the ECU when the waters run out - so I can set up an activation signal in the ECU to take away the power relay earth or something, and swop to a richer/less advance map.

A float is not really practical in a Race Car, but has anyone got a simple , cheap solution that is reliable enough to avoid a melted engine?

Can you clarify what you mean by stop valve? I am not familiar with this term.

You could get one of the flow sensors (806-428) and map the voltage, or raw pulses, against water flow. Then you would know when water is actually flowing to the jet.

[GCCR]

OK, sorry the term "Stop Valve" is probably innaccurate. What I mean is the pressure sensor switch (off when No pressure, ON when line is pressurised). I was hoping this would give me some useable data when connected to aN ecu Av input but it doesn't seem to work like that as the Reading goes up[ to 8v instantly when pressurised (closed contacts I assume), but doesn't then drop to 0V or anything when out of water.

I've opted for a float now and baffled the container heavily, but I'm not really happy with that as a permanent solution as a blocked jet would not show up, but would be enough to blow the engine.

How much is the flow sensor you mention ? (That sounds like the best solution of all).

Would you rather read a voltage or raw pulses from the turbine wheel? I can talk with Richard and see what may be best for your application, but it would be nice to know what works best for you. Also, what kind of jet size are you using and/or what flow are you getting?

[stevieturbo]

A flow sensor would be the best option.

The other option that some use, is basing any fuel/ignition adjustments on air temperature.

Obviously the air temperature when WI is active, will be cooler than when it isnt active. It may compromise other areas, but it can be done this way.

It does of course assume WI does offer repeatable changes in air charge temp.

[djuosnteisn]

Flow sensor is a nice method IMO. You want to keep an eye out for two different failure modes though:
1) underflow. This is the obvious failure, either from an empty tank or clogged line or nozzle.
2) overflow. This one is a bit more difficult to detect, but not much. It protects against failure from a line / hose popping off the injector or pump and simply dumping water into the engine bay instead of the motor.

If set up and monitored properly, a flow sensor is the best option.