Failsafe activating after shift.

[Richard L]

Two things come to mind...

1. I have heard some discussion on other forum about the water pick up problems on the coolingmist tank. Here is the link. But one of the things to check out.

2. I believe you are the one who fitted a pressure switch inline with the IDC sensing wire. This may cause the some problem for the system to ramp up fast enough from 0% DC to 50% DC. This delay may be your problem as the system was seeing nothing and sudden expect to calculate the correct flow for a 50% DC.

Please disconnect the inline presure switch and see if the problem persists.

[Iworktofish]

I believe you are the one who fitted a pressure switch inline with the IDC sensing wire. This may cause the some problem for the system to ramp up fast enough from 0% DC to 50% DC. This delay may be your problem as the system was seeing nothing and sudden expect to calculate the correct flow for a 50% DC.

Please disconnect the inline presure switch and see if the problem persists.

No pressure switch. I was the one that used the Eboost2's programmable auxiliary output wire to trigger a relay to mask the IDC signal. On bimmerforums you mentioned there should not be any ill effects to this. However, in my last post, I mentioned just for eliminating it as a possible culprit, I reduced the trigger from 12, then 11, then 10psi, then all the way to 100rpm so that it is effectively disabled and always sees IDC. No effect, so I'm certain this isn't causing the failsafe. It may be causing the delay though. For now I am leaving it set to "off" and turned up the THRES ADJ from 9 to 2 o'clock so that it is not activating prematurely. Again, the tuner suggests no meth before 13psi.

Originally Posted by Richard L

I have heard some discussion on other forum about the water pick up problems on the coolingmist tank. Here is the link. But one of the things to check out.

Thank you for that link...I think you're on to something. Here's an excerpt from the thread:

After you install the barb fitting into the tank with the drill, remove the fitting by reversing the drill and cut a 7 inch section of hose and insert into the bottom of the fitting just as shown. No glue or tape is required. Now install the fitting by inserting the hose in the tank and tightening the fitting by hand. Once its hand tighten you can use a wrench to completely tighten. This hose is a pickup tap that keeps the system from drawing in air and allows you to use almost the entire tank before filling up. You must install the fitting as below so it goes all the way across the tank. Failure to do this will cause the system to draw air in. The plastic hose will fit in the fitting just like below without any glue. It will stay in place.

I bought the tank from Howerton, and it didn't have these instructions nor any diagrams. Jeff said he had them for a long time. The barb was pre-drilled into the tank with no 7" section of hose. I will see if I can contact coolingmist for a copy of the instructions to see if I can salvage this tank. Shuasha is using this tank on his car without any problems, but I'm thinking this has to be the culprit. While shifting, the fluid is possibly sloshing (even though it's full?) and is drawing air, causing the delay and/or failsafe. If this ends up being the cause, I will bite the bullet and purchase a better tank from Howerton.

I'll advise my findings after I makeshift some sort of 7" section of hose. Your support is truly appreciated.

[Richard L]

Please keep in touch, I would like to get to the bottom of this. It i spossible for me to modify the controller to allow you to dial in a longer failsafe-trigger delay but it will not be good for the long term.

[Iworktofish]

Hi Richard,
I was able to get hold of Coolingmist on their tank instructions and installed a 7" hose in the tank to draw from the open area where it will not see air. I made sure the hose stayed in this position and I also filled the tank to where it is completely full.

I just took a 15min drive. Unfortunately, still experiencing the failsafe. In fact, perhaps because my windows are set too wide (WL at 11o'clock, WH at 1o'clock, FLSF SENS to max) I'm actually seeing conditions where I'm boosting at 15psi with no bars and the HFS-6 is not interrupting the Eboost's solenoid to wastegate. This happened on 4 consecutive attempts, so I reduced the EBC to 13psi to prevent from catastrophic failure.

Since the tank was disconnected, I'm going to try and purge the lines to see if there's trapped air. It doesn't specify in the manual, but is it necessary to purge using the TST jumper each time the line is disconnected from the pump?

Any other suggestions...pinched meth line, trapped air, clogged jet or FCM, bad module, etc, etc, etc? I'm fairly certain my install was correct, but I'm willing to tear the car back apart and inspect each component until I can get this to work 100%.

I just skimmed this and am wondering about the failsafe settings. When we set them up it is in this way:

Adjust the WL full CCW and WH full CW. Set failsafe delay to 12 o'clock.

Put the system in test for 1 minute and measure your jets into a container to ensure the system is flowing according to spec. While spraying 100%, turn the WH down(CCW) until the "B" light starts to flash or goes off, turn back to right 2 clicks. The SC and WH have now been set.

Take the car out on the road, in a high gear roll on the throttle very gently until the system starts to spray. Do this a number of times to get a feel for where it starts, turn the WL up a couple click and repeat process. Do this until the "B" light comes on goes off right at cut in then turn back to right two clicks.

Now try driving the car and see if the failsafe trips in normal circumstances. You can now fine tune the WH WL and delay to tighten the window even more as desired. Sometimes with smaller jet systems the SC may need to be at 7 bars at 100% for a good spread under normal driving, and other circumstances can call for some other adjustments as well.

I think the WH and WL just turned from noon two clicks may not have been an adequate adjustment if that is what was done.

I apologize if this is redundant, but want to see if the failsafe can be tweaked a bit.

[Iworktofish]

Jeff, thanks much for your input. As of now my WL is at 11 and WH is at 1o'clock. I will try this later tonight and will advise.

FYI, I think for WL you meant to say "Do this until the "B" light comes on goes off right at cut in then turn back to LEFT two clicks", correct?

Yes, I meant left. Sorry for the confusion.

[Iworktofish]

Well, I did further testing and still no luck.

I forgot to mention, yesterday I purged the lines by running it on TST for about 3-4min. I also set the EBC down to 13.5psi, a safe level the car can run with or without meth. Tonight, I set WL to full CCW and WH to full CW, FLSF SENS to 12o'clock. Same thing...would come on fine at WOT once threshold is met, but after shifting it would go into failsafe. I then even set FLSF SENS back to max full CW, basically now having all failsafe windows open fully, no change.

At my next opportunity, I will test the system and measure the jets spraying into the container for 1min just to be sure it's flowing to spec. I will also completely bypass the relay for the IDC, even though the eboost is set low enough to where the relay is effectively bypassed, just to be sure. And I will check the pickup tube in the CM tank to make sure it's in the correct forward position, even though I can't see how it would suck in air with the tank at full.

For whatever reason, something is happening when I lift throttle and shift gears that is continuing to trigger failsafe. This is getting frustrating and I'm all out of ideas.

[Richard L]

We may have missed the obvious, a particially clogged jet?

The reset timer after failsafe trigger can be trimmed by using the FLSF RST

[Iworktofish]

thanks Richard. I'm not an engineer, but would a partially clogged jet cause it to work perfectly when applying throttle and reaching threshold, but then go into failsafe after I lift throttle and shift? I will swap out the 1.0mm jet for the next smaller one for testing.

I've played with FLSF RST before, setting it to minimum, but ended up putting it back to 12o'clock. Reason is because when the system was working fine (or I should say "better") and had delay inbetween shifts, I wanted to see if the delay was the failsafe being triggered at shifts and recovering. I suppose I can set it back to minimum, but I really want to get at the cause of what is triggering the failsafe.

Gameplan:
1. measure output into container for 1min to check flow
2. try smaller jet, perhaps current 1.0mm jet is partially clogged
3. jump leads 87-30 on eboost relay to completely bypass to ensure IDC signal is always present.

I could buy another tank for testing as the CM tank has been questioned before, but the pickup is at the bottom and I'm unsure how it can draw air with the tank completely full.

Let me know if you have other suggestions.