Datsun 1600 HFS3-Help needed

G'day Richard,

Today I disconnected the red wire of the grey connector from the positive injector feed. I then connected it the positive supply from the ignition. When the ignition was turned to the pre crank position and the gauge turned on, the unit powered up and activated. All three LEDs in the control unit illuminated, I assume indicating that the trigger point had been reached.

In the post crank position, the system operated as it did in the above post, from yesterdays testing.

Below is another video I took showing what happened during today's testing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=054nuarOaCs

Cheers,
Orlando

Hi Richard,

I did as you instructed and put the park jumper link on FDC. When I took the car for a drive the only light which came on on the bar graph was the red "s". This didn't start to occur until about 5000 RPM. My injectors are rated at 750cc each and with this current set up are reaching a maximum of 70% duty, as indicated by the ECU data logger. Hope this helps.

Cheers, Orlando

[Richard L]

I watched both videos. The action of the HFS-3 is working as designed. There are no surprise there.

In the absensce 12Vfeed to the fuel injector(+), the HFS-3 will be seeing the injector(-) as in full-on condition. The IDC% detection circuitry is looking for a digital wave, ie +12v or 0V.

I can see a solution: Why don't you separate the +12V supply to the fuel pump and the fuel injector(+). Relocate the fuel injetcor(+) to the other side of the relay. You still retain the safety aspect of cutting off the fuel at the fuel pump.

It is unlikely the fuel injectors are held 100% full on in the event of an accident.

Question: have you tried driving the car on load and see if the HFS-3 triggers? Or link FDC to see what the H3 picked up.

Hi Richard,

I have driven the car under full load (22 psi boost and 70% injector duty cycle) and the H3 did not trigger.

I did as you instructed and put the park jumper link on FDC. When I took the car for a drive the only light which came on on the bar graph was the red "s". This didn't start to occur until about 5000 RPM. This means that although my injectors are at 70% IDC, the H3 is seeing maybe 5% IDC, which is well below the trigger point. I this your understanding of the problem?

Cheers, Orlando

[Richard L]

I think there is something wrong for sure. Please pm me your postal address and I will send you replacement controller ahead of you returning the faulty unit back to me.

Just to know that the injectors are not low impedance/peak and hold type. If they are, you need to use the green harness. Please check if you haver a green harness becuase you can use this for conventional injector as well.

Hi Richard,

I checked my injectors and they are 2.4 ohms, 2 amps peak and 0.5 amps hold. I was not supplied with a green harness on my kit.

I've also sent you all the postal details. Thanks again.

Cheers,
Orlando

[Richard L]

Thanks for the update.

I now know why the system is not picking up the IDC signal. The green harness must be used. On its way.

Hi Richard,

It has been a few years since I last spoke to you so I thought I?d touch bases and update you onthe progress with my HFS-3.
A few weeks after we last spoke, I managed the get the HFS-3 system running correctly on my car once I fitted the green harness you sent. I got my car tuned shorty after and it made 260rwkw @ 22psi without WI and 290 rwkw @ 26 psi with WI. The car ran like a dream and was a lot of fun to drive. I am not 100% sure why you guys fit the gauge with an on/off button, as I?m sure that no one actually turns their system off once they have driven with it on. I sure as hell haven?t!
Anyway, about two weeks after tuning the car the gearbox decided that it had had enough of the extra power and torque and retired as I was accelerating through third gear. The car was garaged for a year and a half while I sourced and fitted more suitable drive train components to handle the extra power, fabricated my own twin scroll manifold and exhausts system, oh, and started a family. It was a very busy 18 months!
So I finished all the modifications and finally got a chance to get the car retuned a few months ago. The power was roughly the same and the WI is still working like a charm. I can?t speak highly enough of the Aquamist WI system. The system, installed and tuned, including the purchase price of the unit, was less the $1500. Dollar per kilowatt, the Aquamist WI system has been the best value power upgrade to my car in the 10+ years I have been modifying it.
In conclusion, I just want to say thanks to you and your team for a great product and excellent after sales support. It has made a world of difference to do-it-yourselfers like me.

Thank you and kind regards,
Orlando