Re: FCM Problem
 

Just pinged all capacitors' ends - linkes are ok everywhere. Ok, it will try to re-solder these, but this will be really difficult.
BTW, 2 left capacitors have 310 (or something like this) marker, right one is brown without markers - is this ok (see photo)?
Can you please provide information for voltages on bottom ends of left and right capacitors in both modes, if it is not difficult. I will try to check this as well - maybe problem is somewhere deeper.

Re: FCM Problem
 

The unmarked parts are capacitors, the rest are resistor. They are not too important.

The next step. Put jumper on as below:

MPS = unlinked
IDC = linked
PRK = unlinked
TST = linked
INJ = unlinked (disable the FCM)

Please measure the voltages 1, 2,and 3. The voltage should all be over 5V. If they are, the pump relay should turn on.

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS6/int.gif

Re: FCM Problem
 

Voltage there is twice higher than on left leg of transistor: ~2,50-2,58 in "TST"
Voltage halves on legs of left capacitor twice to 1,25-1,29.

Funny thing is that when I shorten lower legs of left and middle capacitor (equals shortening left capacitor), voltage of 2,58 is coming directly to left leg of transistor and pump begis to work! Unlinking "TST" drops voltage to 0,8 and pump is not working. This means system begins to function properly.

So what will you advice? Does constant shortening of legs of left capacitor makes sense?

Re: FCM Problem
 

I don't want to go into another direction. Is it possible for you to give me the voltages on location 1,2 and 3 as requested?

Re: FCM Problem
 

1 - 2,60
2 - 2,60
3 - 3,10

Re: FCM Problem
 

This is interesting, Those voltages are too low to turn the transistor on. It should be in the region of 5-7 volts. We have some how lost some voltage somewhere on the "TST" link.

There are three possibilities this voltage can be interfered with, I can rule out two of them by:

1. Removing the gauge harness
2. Removing the Pump harness.

Please now measure location 3...

Re: FCM Problem
 

1 - 3,10
2 - 3,10

Re: FCM Problem
 

Can you tell me if all the leds on the controller are still lit?

Re: FCM Problem
 

Please remove this transistor. This transistor does nothing useful. It is intended for a handheld tester but never put into production.

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS6/q2.gif

Re: FCM Problem
 

It worked! Finally. After removing the transistor voltage jumped to 7+V and everything is functioning properly. Thank you very much, Richard, problem is resolved at last.
So is it ok to run system w/o this transistor?
Tomorrow I will try to make a test run to be sure everything is fine.
Thanks again!

Re: FCM Problem
 

It is good to know. This is a difficult one to trace but with your help, we did it. Thanks for your patience.

This transistor is for communicating with the handheld plug in. It has never gone into production. Its function is to tell the unit the status of the system, output to the user port. No other functions to the main controller circuitry.

Re: FCM Problem
 

Sorry, but seems like I'm having another, former problem here.
Re-installed and rewired everything and prepared for test-drive, but when I tried to enable "TST" mode I found out that water is not coming out of nozzle. Pump was working, all led's were lit, but also "Water level" was let on the gauge. "S" is lit, but no bars. Again, green led is not lit on red connector :( (yesterday it was lit, which is strange).

As you remember we've soldered brown and black cables in FCM, so I've opened it again and resoldered them as it was initially - no effect. Some area on pcb is extremly hot if it matters (dunno whether it should be like this).

After this took a car for a ride and put a nozzle pointing directly to windshield in front of me. Went to full boost - no water coming out, but noticed that "B" letter on the gauge is lit while on full boost.

Any suggestions for possible reasons for this? Really sorry for bothering you again.

Re: FCM Problem
 

On to the next problem solving.

The Brown wire modification should be permanent. Please "reinstate" the modification, brown wire from the 8-pin connector to black wire of the inline valve.

I cannot work with you if you keep making modifications before telling me. One step at a time. You are again telling me too many things that you might think useful but unfortunately it doesn't help, just add more confusions.

Let me know when you have reinstated the modification.

Re: FCM Problem
 

Ok, will do. Should I also take out restrictor as well as you asked on page 2 (currently 0,9 restrictor is installed)

Re: FCM Problem
 

The next three steps only:
(Check there is plenty of pressurised water in the inlet of the FCM (6mm) first.

1) Remove the restrictor (as you suggested)
2) Remove the 4mm hose on the outlet of the FCM
3) Put TST link on, let me know if you have water coming out of the FCM.

Re: FCM Problem
 

Conducted all the steps. Water is coming out from FCM.
Strange... so this should mean that nozzle is blocking the water?

Re: FCM Problem
 

So good so far.

next steps:
4) Whilst under TST with open FCM, can you see any bar display on the gauge?
5) If yes, put the same nozzle (previous test) in the outlet of the FCM, How many bars is the gauge displaying

wait for your results

Re: FCM Problem
 

4) no bars, water level led is lit, water is coming from FCM
5) same, but water is not coming out from nozzle

Re: FCM Problem
 

OK, we will look for the display problem first:

6) Is the FCM box fully closed?
7) Does the gauge show "S" when the red harness is plugged in?

Meanwhile, disassemble the nozzle and clear the clog. You need two 10mm spanners and a 1/8" flat blade screw driver.

Re: FCM Problem
 

6) No
7) Yes

Ok, I will clean the nozzle, close the box and will try again.

Re: FCM Problem
 

If the FCM box is not closed, the hall effect sensor on the circuit board will not read the turbine of the flow sensor

Close the box and repeat test 4 and 5.

Re: FCM Problem
 

Yes, this really helped. Thanks again, Richard.
Nozzle was full of dirt - probably it got there during these several month of laying under hood unconnected.
Currently everything is fine and flow sensor shows 7 bars in "TST" mode.
You said that box should be completely closed - should I re-seal it to be 100% sure that is sealed completely?

Re: FCM Problem
 

The circuit board is epoxy dipped to protect it from the environment. But the modification you did with the black and brown wire may need further moisture protection. May be tap up the gap of the FCM will do just as well.

Re: FCM Problem
 

The next step will be taking the car for a drive and play with the trimmers.

Re: FCM Problem
 

Thanks, Richard. Everything works just great.
I would like to build up direct port system. I think this will make sense. Which parts will be required? Can I ask to to assist and make a quote?

Re: FCM Problem
 

How many cylinders?

Re: FCM Problem
 

standard R4