Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

I have successfully installed and followed the power-up procedure in the manual but now I am having a problem getting the system to prime out the 6mm hose when i disconnect it from the FAV.

I turn the IGN to the "on" stage with the jumper on the INJ prongs, then when the dash gauge starts up I remove the INJ jumper and put it on the SYS prongs as instructed in the manual. Then after about 5secs I can hear the pump click and the water level light turns on despite being about 60% filled with water.

I have the pre-built HE kit so pretty sure the level sensor is fine. :)

thanks in advance. :cool:

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Are you trying to primg the system without the inline valve connected?

If you want to primind the system wth "valve assembly" and "jet", you must keep the INJ jumper in place and use the spare jumper from the "prk" to activate the system.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Thanks for the quick reply Richard, just reading the manual again and its saying something different. I Just took the spare prk jumper and and put it on the sys prong while leaving the inj jumper enabled and it made a louder click but thats about it......

Priming and purging of the system:

a: fill up the tank with water half way.
b: Disconnect the 6mm hose from the FAV assembly and put the hose into a container securely.
c: ignition switch in pre-crank position and gauge is switched on. Uncover the controller and pull out the "inj" jumper (disabling the FAV) and put it to the link marked "sys". The pump should power up and water should come out of the 6mm hose within a few seconds.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

If the water is not coming out of 6mm hose end with force, the pump head may have some trapped air. Use a small length of 6mm hose (better the entire 16 feet length), let the water from the pump flow back to the tank. This is a better way for getting rid of the trapped air in the pump head.

The click when INJ and TST is enaged, the valve is opened 100%. Try not to do it more than 1 minute at a time withiut and water going pass it.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Okay, I took off the long hose and attached a 25cm 6mm line from the pump back up to the tank. Unfortunately it has not made a difference. The pump just doesn't want to seem to turn on. I checked power to the pump with the multimeter and it is fine. I have even tried to manually suck air out of the pump head through the line with a little bike pump that has a reverse setting. The water pumps through fine so I think the problem is elsewhere.

I have disconnected the water level sensor but no matter what I try I keep getting the water level light coming on instead of the system actually priming.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

The yellow led is doubled up as a failsafe, it will naturally comes on if the valve assembly is not connected.

Can you bridge pin30 and 87 and let me know if the pump comes on. Check the fuse also. It can be a bad relay.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Okay I have found the problem :) it was the fuse....... I know I sound like an idiot but I put a brand new 15A fuse in and it must have blown straight away. I saw it was blown so I put another in and sure enough it blew straight away also, this continued for the remaining 4 mini fuses I had....

So went down to the local Repco and got a different brand and sure enough it works like a charm.

Sorry for the fuss, and thanks for the help. :)

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Hello,


I have strong feeling my HFS-3 is acting as single stage. PWM jumper is well closed and SSG is open. The only jumper which is not on default location is Trigger one as I've chosen to trigger with boost instead of IDC, trigger is set up at 0.6 bar now.
when system is trigged, the guage will indicate 5 bars instanly and won't change any indication, no matter I set the boost to 0.8 or 1.3 bar, it still indicate same flow. same reading with any RPM. what could be the cause of this ?

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

It may be acting fine, the display depends on a number of factors: being IDC range you spray in, jet size, and injector size and usage.

For example, if you start spraying at 40%IDC, and you injectors max at 65%, then the range of movement of the bargraph will be small, no matter the RPM or perceived load. If you can give us some specifics we can determine if it is operating correctly.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

hello,

the kit is setup to start spraying at 0.6 bar of boost pressure, which must be around 20%IDC then it goes up to around 65%

when I tested the kit on my fuel map. I did this test :
- boost set up at 0.7. when HFS3 activate, it goes straight to 5 bars. engine has hesitation as A/F ratio goes over 10:1 then it gets better as rpm rise
- boost set up at 1.3 bar. when hfs3 activate, it goes great as boost reach higher pressure (it still indicate 5 bars no mater RPM). A/F ratio is much closer to normal at 1.3 bar, which means there is less methanol vs fuel than when setup at 0.7 bar.

also, when I first did flow test, I ended up using 1mm nozzle, which was perfect flow size. but when I tried to drive with it, when HFS activated, car was just hesitating like hell (very rich). so, I changed for .8 nozzle, which went quite better.

I also noticed EGT are going a bit down when the pump trigger. but is going up again when boost or RPM rize up to same value it was without Aquamist

note : those test were done using 50:50 water/meth

so in my opinion, my active valves just stay open and act like single stage kit.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

The HFS-xx is designed to spray up to 1600 cc/min. At lower, you willbe operating at the boottom end of the designed range. In this range, unless the inlet restrictor is well, match, you will be getting some overflow.

All the turbine flow sensor also over reads a little as it accellerates towards a steady flow. We are bring put a range of smaller valves in the next few months. Beta test is available now. Howerton do have a few but not many untill full production.

Richard

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

As Richard said, if you are not using the proper restictor it will flow higher in the lower IDC region. Using EGT as an indicator may not be the best as the heat load from you method of forced induction may not match RPM proportionally. You may only get a 2 bar change with the setup and settings you are using.

I will need to look at the schematics or ask Richard, I believe there maybe a test point on the board where you can read a representative 0-5V output of the valve DC. You can drive the car and measure this to see if it as acting as a single stage or not.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

I'm using the smallest restrictor provided : 0.5mm
if there is a 0-5 volt output to test valve DC, I could check that :)

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Hi guys, got my HFS-3 spraying nicely now :) just need a little bit of experianced advice on the dial settings so I can start tuning shortly.

I imagine the following info is needed,

* evo 7 with 2.4L
* running direct port .3mm jets x 4
* 1000cc injectors
* 50-50 WM

thank you

Cammy :)

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

I just got my Aquamist HFS3, i'll be installing it on my Porsche 997 turbo, has anyone done it on this car before? Any info?

thx

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Anyone...........?

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

There has been a few 996's. But I think the DME is the same. If you need soem wiring instruction, here is a link to it:

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/...ead.php?t=1876

EPL put one into a 997 here:
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...n-install.html

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

quick notice,

Problem has been solved using smaller fuel injector :)
I used to have big injector to run ethanol, so when back to regular gasoline, my injector duty range was very low (under 50%). I have reverted to proper smaller injector size (to have 80% duty) and downgraded jet size acordingly. now the kit works perfect ;)

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Ford F-350 superduty 2003 7.3L turbodiesel
"Installed" HFS-2 system in it but doesnt work.
Indicator/dashswith red led always on.

Broblem is where do you install injector duty cycle harness (red and green wire) when ford has 120v system in it?

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

There are two version of the dash switch red/yellow and green/yellow. Unfortunately the user manual does not state there is a red/yellow verison. If you have solid red, it means the system is installed correctly and ready to inject once it sees the IDC signal.

I can help you but I need to do some research of what type of diesel injection system Ford uses. If you know, send me some links to speed things up. The HFS2v2 can read any DI signals. If all else fails, you can inject based on manifoild pressure.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

huge thanks for info!
jumper has been added to inject by map sensor 0-5v by fords own sensor.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Pardon my ignorance if this has been stated before, but I just bought a HFS-3 Kit for my Nissan 350z. My flash tune allows me to change maps on the fly, however I don't think it works with the Aquamist failsafe map switcher. In any case, Am I able to wire a manual On/Off Switch to the HFS-3 system so that I can use a map WITH meth, and a map for daily driving WITHOUT meth to save methanol and gas mileage?

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

This can be done automatically by using the white and brown wire from the grey connector. (provided it is not used for something else already).

When you switch the system off at the dash gauge, the brown and white wire will go open circuit.

What type of signal is required for the flash to change map? A voltage or make/break contact to ground?

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

So basically, if I wire nothing to the white and brown wires, I can switch the Aquamist system off?

I'm not sure what kind of electrical signal is needed. The way we change maps is by holding down the cruise control set button while pressing cruise control cancel an X amount of times for the map we want to switch to.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

You just use the button on the face of the gauge to turn the Aquamist on/off.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Well.. I feel like a complete idiot now. Thanks for the info guys!

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Hello Richard, I live in Belarus. I have a problem. help me to solve it, please. was purchased and installed Aquamis thfs-3 , confused RG 48 connector from fuel injector with connector RG 48 ECU . now nothing works. .dash gauge is off, the controller ECU is off. just click only time something(relay ecu?) once, when the power is turned.... please, may be necessary to make a diagnosis, how?

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Does the gauge light up?

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

no, Richard :(

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

I think the controller is no longer functioning due to mis-wiring so a repair is necessary. Please send the controller and gauge n-back to us. If it is repairable, it will not be charged since it is a relatively new system.

I will wait for it.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Any changes to schematic for v3?

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

The wiring is the same. A few configuration changes.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

2006 Chrysler 300 SRT8 (6.1L engine)

Can I install the HFS3-v3 out of the box on my car?

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Presently I am naturally aspirated but I have a Kenne Bell positive displacement supercharger that will be installed soon. However, I would like to install the HFS3-v3 before the install in order to become familiar with it. Once the SC is installed I plan to continue running the water/meth injection.

The Kenne Bell is a twin-screw "top mount" SC. That is, it sits on top of the engine replacing the intake manifold. Inside the SC are two anodized aluminum rotors and the associated mechanicals including steel bearing packs. Underneath the rotors is an aluminum aftercooler; the compressed air flows through this before entering the engine.

Q1: When the SC is installed I plan to inject water/meth pre-throttle body. Is this the optimum injection point for this system or should I inject post-throttle body?

Q2: Is methanol compatible with aluminum? Will I expect to see pitting and other corrosive effects on the anodized aluminum rotors and\or the aluminum aftercooler?

Q3: Will the steam or water vapor wash out the bearing packs in the SC?

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

I believe Kenne Bell should be able to give you a more accurate answer on Q2 and Q3.
Does Kennie Bell have customers that run alcohol, e85 etc pre S/C. Ethanol and methanol are very similar.

Q/A #1: Pre S/C will require more W/M as part of the cooling effect is absorbed by the S/C. It is possible to inject after the SC? I guess the next question would be does the w/m do the same for the piston and rings? Possible at a greater effect due to the elevated temperatures.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Unfortunately the case seems to be SC companies conservatively saying NO to meth injection... and WMI companies aggressively saying YES to meth injection. It's difficult to have an honest wide-ranging conversation due to these folks hiding behind their vested interests.

Many folks I know have asked the question to Kenne Bell's technical support and have received conflicting answers depending on who, exactly, they spoke with. I believe the response has been further muddied by conversations that were not clear about whether or not tuning would be adjusted for meth injection.

Your answer to me is fair; I should be talking to Kenne Bell about this, however, for the reasons stated above I'm trying to expand the conversation. In any event, I will be spraying WM :-)

I ordered the HFS-2 through Jeff Howerton and very much look forward to installing this on my car. I will be the ONLY PERSON that I know of in the Hemi world who uses Aquamist, and I find this to be a shame. I've invited Jeff to join my online message board to introduce us to Aquamist, and I'd like to extend that invitation to you, Richard.

We have many members now running over 1,000 HP engines, and many more running over 500. As such, effective octane and the management of combustion temps is crucial, and I would like to see my fellow enthusiasts be familiar with and have the opportunity to buy the best meth system possible, which presently is Aquamist IMO.

Please consider joining and contributing to meth conversations at www.LXforums.com . As with all forums, there are rules for vendor solicitation, and I don't know much about all that, I would only like to see the Hemi world become more familiar with Aquamist.

I have a specific thread where it wouldn't be against the rules if you joined to discuss the technical aspects of PWM vs. PPS systems.

http://www.lxforums.com/board/f286/w...vs-pps-344686/

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

It appears the SC companies want the benefits of WMI but not the responsibilities.

My view is the same as Kennie's, I would not want to be on the wrong side of an argument if things did not work out. No WMI maker has the technical resources to say categorically the WMI will not affect the SC adversely. I believe the some burden should be carried by the end use as they benefit from the usage. The WMI theory is sound, proven to be effective since 1940s on all automotive engine. Temperature is the biggest enemies to engine components if it cannot be maintained by the conventional water/radiator setup. This is particularly evident on supercharged and turboed engine when stretched. Ambient temperature, fuel quality also plays and important part on this.

Just a quick summing upon this topic, addition of water or addition fuel will reduce the combustion temperature directly and effectively. It will be your choice to make regardless of the engine or SC longevity. We merely give you another option.

I have to be a vendor to post on forums, I cannot do it any other ways. I am happy to continue to discuss this topic here.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

Forgive me if this has been asked and answered before, but can you explain how the 70% IDC and 30% MPS configuration works in the v3.0 of the HFS-2/3 systems?

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

100% IDC input will only produce 70% of the total flow
100% MPS input will only produce 30% of the total flow.

Does this make sense? I cannot think of any other way to explain this.

Re: Aquamist HFS-3 system for 2010 ..... "Q and A"
 

I went to the lxforum link you posted. It is weird no one replied to such an important performance gap between the PPS an PWM-V systems. Plenty of people looked in though.

Too complicated to understand or just uninterested? May be you have upset the PPS guys? It was quite an outspoken post.