Going with the HFS-3
 

My first post in this forum. I will be purchasing the HFS-3 system from Howerton Engineering and like all of my other mods, I will be doing the install myself. The car will then be re-tuned by EFI Logics.

Full info on my '07 FXT can be found here.

To avoid having to mix my own brew, I will be using AutoZone windshield washer fluid that is 32% meth/68% water. It sells for under $2 a gallon and contains no other ingredients other than blue coloring.

My goal with WI is (1) to lower the current IDC of 98%; (2) lean out the current A/F ratio of 11.1:1 and (3) harvest any additional HP/torque to be had with a conservative tune. My FXT (with 4EAT automatic transmission) currently puts down 261 WHP - 310 ft./lbs. on a Mustang dyno.

I settled on using the HFS-3 because of its use of IDC to control flow and its use of a constant speed pump/FAV. I also very much appreciate the support offered by this forum and from Jeff at Howerton Engineering. I think this system will work perfectly for my goals.

I'm still sorting out what I will be doing for a WI tank. If I cannot find a suitable location to mount the pump at the same level of (or below) the windshield washer reservoir, I will use the small 2-quart tank under the hood and set up a means to transfer fluid from the washer reservior to the WI tank. Since I have no trunk, I wish to avoid placing the pump and tank inside the car.

I hope to start this project within the next few weeks and will post photos of my progress.

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

You can't go wrong with Howerton Eng. his before and after sale cust service is top notch. I use pre-mix Boost juice which is 50/50 with a red dye. Its a little more expensive but the higher meth content is good thing. As far as pump and tank placement, there are some custom solutions that can be made that would blend into the rear cargo area and allow for venting to the outside. The use of a small underhood tank could result in very frequent fill ups depending on your driving style and if the tank is baffled.

Good luck

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

Pulled the fender liner this weekend and it looks very good - the tank is huge (at least 2 gallons), there's plenty of room for the WI hardware on the tank and enough room next to the tank to mount the WI pump. The area also looks reasonably dry and clean, though I will fabricate and extra sheild for the WI pump to protect it from any drips/splashes that may find their way in.

Will update this thread with install photos as I progess over the next month.

Installation - Post 1
 

HFS-3 Install #1

I am now in the process of installing the Aquamist HFS3 water/methanol injection system. This is the first of mulitple posts documenting the installation.

The installation is going to include the following items;

1 - Aquamist HFS3 kit

1 - Aquamist 806-280 Water Level Sensor Kit

1 - MadDad Ultra Basic Series 52mm Boost Gauge

1 - Subtle Forester - Ashtray Gauge Bezel

I am using the stock windshield washer reservior and will inject -20 degree F. washer fluid. I am using AutoZone -20 fluid, which is 32% methanol/68% water.

Today I installed the gauges in the Subtle bezel and then installed the cluster in the console. The gauges are not yet connected - that will be the last step when I install the main Aquamist controller in the glove box. The photos below show the cluster installed. The LED holder between the gauges will connect to the 806-280 secondary water level sensor, which will be installed about 2/3 of the way down in the washer reservior to give advance warning of when the level is getting low (before the primary float level switch is reached and activates the Aquamist failsafe that drops boost to wastegate level).

The next planned step is to remove the front bumper and (1) install the float level and pump inlet hardware in the reservior; (2) mount the pump next to the reservior; (3) install the FAV (Fast Acting Valve) and (4) install the tubing from the reservior to the pump and from the pump to the FAV. Hopefully I will do that next weekend.

Photos of the gauge cluster installed;

http://www.canonshooter.com/photos2/hfs3-1.jpg


http://www.canonshooter.com/photos2/hfs3-2.jpg

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

nice, very nice pictures!!!

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

Looks great. I don't think my car was that clean when it was new.....Being a convertible it has a nice layer of dust both inside and outside.

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

The ashtray gauge pod is very nice and clever piece of engineering work.

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

It does provide for a very clean, OEM-looking install. Only downside is that it requires moving the head (and taking eyes off the road) to read the gauges.

The boost gauge has a memory function that displays the highest boost when turning off the car. That at least will help overcome the less-than-optimum placement.

I have all my hardware ready to go for the reservior/pump install this weekend. I will take more photos and post the results.

BTW, I took the Foz for it's first trip to the 1/4 mile drag strip last week. I only got in one run and bogged the launch terribly, resulting in a nearly 2.2 second 60' time. Even with the geriatric launch, I managed an ET of 13.422 seconds at 104.4 MPH. With a good launch the car would be in the 12-second bracket. With the HFS3 installed and a re-tune, I think it will do 12s easily all day.

http://www.canonshooter.com/photos2/nedragway-1.jpg

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

Jeff, some people garden, some people read, some people knit. Me, I get my relaxation/stress relief detailing my car.

I know, strange...

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

HFS-3 Install #2

I mounted the pump and tank hardware yesterday. The install worked out well!

Photo below shows the windshield washer reservior with the two float switches installed on the side of the tank facing the engine compartment. The float switch on the upper-right is the secondary switch that I installed to illuminate the LED in my gauge cluster when the tank is about half empty. The switch on the lower left is the for the failsafe function (reduce boost to wastegate) when the level falls to that point.

http://www.canonshooter.com/photos2/hfs3-3.jpg

The photo below shows the outlet tapping from the tank to the pump. This was installed in the lowest part of the tank, facing the front of the car. There was no room on the back of the tank, between the tank and the fender liner to install the fitting there.

http://www.canonshooter.com/photos2/hfs3-4.jpg

Photo below shows the pump bracket installed. This is a simple L-bracket from Home Depot (decking hardware) that I drilled and painted black.

http://www.canonshooter.com/photos2/hfs3-5.jpg

This photo show everything installed. The pump is at the same level as the bottom of the tank to avoid any priming issues. The outlet line from the pump to the FAV was run through a piece of 1/4" gas hose to protect it. The custom light bar (made of 1-inch square stock) was perfect for running the line to the other side of the car where the FAV will be located. I also covered the line from the tank to the pump after this photo was taken to protect it.

http://www.canonshooter.com/photos2/hfs3-6.jpg

The location where the pump is installed is resonably dry, but since the pump must be well-protected from water splashes/drippage, I took a Dremel tool to a plastic food storage container and made a splash shield for the pump. I also sealed off the small, decorative grille on the side of the bumper cover to prevent any water coming in through that.

http://www.canonshooter.com/photos2/hfs3-7.jpg

Next step is to install FAV, remove TMIC to install jet hardware and run all electrical lines into the passenger compartment.

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

Great pictures, yet again.

If possible, as the harness to the tank, relay and pump is terminated with un-sealed plug and socket. It will be nice if you can put them in a water tight box or rap it up with insulation tape.

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

Are you able to baffle that tank ? I am still new to this but it looks as if you accelerate hard the float would still be covered but the inlet may suck air.
Definately a clean install.

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

Richard, all of the electrical connections are being done under the hood in a dry location.

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

Thanks for taking a look and commenting!

The tapping is in a narrow sump at the bottom of the tank, so I don't believe there should be any loss-of-prime issues. Also, I'll be topping off the tank once the upper float switch is tripped and the LED warning light activated.

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

Nice work. It will be interesting to see the improvement in 1/4 mile and your driving impressions.

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

Sounds good. Its tough to guage size and dimensions with a photo. (at least for me)

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

This weekend I finished up the under-hood part of the HFS-3 install. This included installing the jet in the TMIC, installing the Fast Acting Valve (FAV), the water lines and the electrical work. All of the wires are now run into the passenger compartment for final hook up next weekend.

These two photos show the jet and hardware installed in the TMIC, on the under side of the outlet to the TB. Since the Perrin has cast aluminum end tanks, the drilling and tapping was very easy with plenty of material to tap. I sleeved the 4mm line with 3/6" fuel hose to protect it - on the second photo you can see it pull down over the barb fitting and secured with a zip tie;
http://www.canonshooter.com/photos2/hfs3-8.jpg


http://www.canonshooter.com/photos2/hfs3-9.jpg


The photo below show the FAV installed on the EBCS bracket;

http://www.canonshooter.com/photos2/hfs3-10.jpg

Looking forward to "going live" next weekend!

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

If you have any extra 4mm tubing, you can try putting a jet into the top of your water tank and driving the car to get the gauge adjusted, purge the system etc.

Sorry if you've done this already, just hate to see people get to the dyno not having checked everything ahead of time.

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

Jeff, I do and I will! I have enough to go out the back of the hood and to hold in place with the wiper. I will install one of the unused jets and observe it's operation while driving and get the controller dialed in as much as possible.

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

Keep those great pictures coming :D

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

Completed the installation this weekend. The system started up and worked perfectly.

Since I am extremely "fussy" about the work I do and had spent way too much time running every wire and line so that it would look as "OEM" as possible, I was relieved that I had made no install errors. All of my electrical connections are "twist and solder" and all wires are run through split-loom and neatly secured. As much as my 56 year old back aches from crawling around under the dashboard, I am pleased with the install.

I have tested the system and adjusted it as much as possible with the jet secured to the windshield under a wiper arm - all appears to be working as expected. The final step will happen on Thursday when I return to EFI Logics to have the car re-tuned.

My sincere thanks to Jeff Howerton for his help with the install! I had plenty of questions and Jeff responds quickly with the needed direction.

I will post my final results, some more photos and new dyno graph next weekend.

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

Here are the results of my re-tune with the Aquamist HFS3 system using ordinary -20 degree blue washer fluid (about 30% methanol, the rest water);

Old Tune / New Tune
max WHP - 261 to 274
max torque - 310 to 345
max IDC - 98% to 88%
AFR - 11.1/1 to 11.5/1

Conservative tune, zero knock events up to 140 MPH on the dyno. The car runs very smooth and of course, feels considerably stronger. I'm sure my EGT is now lower too.

Just for giggles, I had them do one full power pull in failsafe mode (wastegaste pressure, 7 PSI). I still made 240 WHP and 245 torque.

I had a 200 mile drive back from the tuner to dial in the failsafe. I think it's close now and will fine tune the settings over the next week or so.

Overall, I'm pleased with the product, the support and the results!

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

I'd be interested in the dyno graph. It sounds like you got a healthy torque increase. Do you have the old plot overlayed with the new by chance?

Just curious, did you see what the AFR was on the failsafe pull?

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

I had my tuned at EFI last week as well using 50/50. Made around 40 more HP and TQ. I also have dyno plots if anyone cares.

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

Sure, post them up.

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

Here is mine showing all three tunes. The water/meth injection sure made a lot more room under those curves!


http://www.canonshooter.com/photos2/dynograph-2.gif

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

If I recall, it was the same as with the system on. The tuner said the AFR curve was perfect. He was also impressed with how consistent the Aquamist system was through all of the tuning.

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

We try to convey that information as much as possible. The area under the curve and proper injection amounts across the entire rev range is what sets the Aquamist apart.

You should be able run the car repeatedly and have the AFR curves overlay nearly perfect.

Glad you are happy with the system. That's a nice TQ curve for using only 20-30% meth mix.

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

Give credit when credit is due, the entire journey from start to finish is drama free. If everyone takes as much care to details as you did on the install, Jeff and I will have a lot more time to ourselves. Well done!

Ever of thinking of running higher methanol percentage? For experience you get more torque increase.

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

Richard, thanks for the kudos!

I spent a lot of time considering what I wanted to use for the mix. It boiled down to convenience, avoiding the handling of straight methanol and keeping the system as user friendly to use & maintain as possible. I knew there was more power to be had with higher methanol concentration, but based on the experience of other Subaru owners, I knew I was at the very limit of what the transmission will hold. Also, the Mustang dyno at the shop that did the tuning is notorious for low readings, so at a realistic estimate of about 400 HP at the crank, it's as far as I want to go.

The washer fluid I am using is sold at Autozone stores under their Valucraft name. It is roughly 32% methanol - the remainder is water and some blue dye. There is no detergent or glycol in it. Some people are skeptical of the blue dye and harm it may cause, but as we know dye is commonly used in many fuels, including aviation fuel and many race fuels. To compensate for any variation in methanol content of the washer fluid, I am "spiking" each gallon of fluid with a 12 ounce bottle of Heet gas line antifreeze (straight methanol).

Finally, the car was tuned with injection starting at around 12 PSI of boost using IDC trigger input (I'm runnning 20.8 PSI max). To add even more safety margin, I turned the threshold potentiometer a click lower to bring the system on a little earlier. My car builds boost very rapidly and I wanted to give the system more time to react.

I plan on getting out this weekend and doing some driving!

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

Hi,

Here's my dyno graph.

Thanks,

http://www.pumpkie.net/aquamist/dyno.bmp

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

How much boost did you increase on this tune?

Re: Going with the HFS-3
 

A little over 3 PSI.