Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Hi all ...

I want to know how exactly to wire the failsafe of the hfs3 to work with an ebc using a stepper motor for boost control ( evc 6 in my case) ... With external WGs

The manual calls for the use of a 3 way MAC valve, but stops short of explaining exactly how ...

Do you set it (MAC valve) to divert the boost referance hose going into the "0" port?
Or set it to disturb (block) the actuator signal hose to the waste-gates "port 1"

My aim is to go down to spring boost upon failsafe activation ...

Many thanks in advance

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

What car is it?

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Hi Richard ...

This is for a 997tt with gtx turboes .. Ext wg setup

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Is this a 997.1 or 997.2?

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Richard,

Its a 997.1tt ... Garret turboes and tial wg/bov

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

I made this drawing up, I think it should work.

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS3/997TT/H3-997.1TT-HKS.gif

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Nice illustration Richard, but I think you got the vacuum hoses hooked wrong ...

The boost referance hoses from the compressor should go into the middle "1" port, and gives feed to the lower port of the wg before going into the port. If I set the MAC before the Tee supplying boost referance to the wg it will cause un uncontrolled boost event ( WG will not see pressure and never open)

The control port on the evc 6 is the left "0" port, and it connects to both wastegates too ( Top or control port).

I will attach a diagram of the basic setup Im using ...

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

And another drawing showing a single turbo setup, its basically the same but with 2 of everything.

Basically to acheive my target "Failsafe" option, The top port on the external wg has to be vented to air, then the spring will be the sole boost regulator ... Just not sure how to acheive that with the mac valve,

Option A: on the boost referance hose (port 1 -middle) as you showed in the illistration, but definately after the tee going to the wg (Botttom), doing that will give the ebc no referance. ( not sure if it will work)

Option B: on the control vacuume hose (port 0- Left), this way I'm thinking to connect as follows:
Com - wg top port
NO - port 0 on stepper motor
NC - vent ( so when open its spring alone holding boost )

Let me know your thoughts about this Richard ...

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

The aquamist failsafe relay contact is "closed" when flow is normal. So the MAC valve is "energised" during a normal cruise and on boost conditions. Ie, port 1 &2 is connected. Diverting the boost into the HKS capsule, allowing it to control boost.

As soon as flow problem is detected, the relay contact goes "open circuit" and de-energises the MAC valve. Now the port 2 & 3 is connected. Directing the boost into the upper part of wastegate actuator resulting in dropping boost.

I will looking into this closely tomorrow. It is getting quite late here.

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Yes Richard!! That will definitely work ....

Thank you for the quick replies and the nice diagram ...

Cheers

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

I can never be 100% until it is tested. Please update.

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Hello Richard ...

Ive installed e hfs3 on the car now, i still have the stock turbo setup and want to test that the system works on this setup first, and I have run into a couple of problems:

1- water level light on the gauge is always on, level sensor is correctly installed and all wiring is in order .... could it be a faulty sensor? I cannot begin to purge the system as it wont start the pump even with the sys jumpers.


2- The green idc led is not coming on. I tripple checked the idc connection on the ecu end. The amber thresh led comes on when I blip the throttle, green led never came on. When testing wi th the idc jumper on the circuit board the s+b lights on the gauge do flicker with throttle blipping.
So do I have a faulty green led on the circuit board too?


Any help is apprecited ...

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Ive been troubleshooting with Jeff and learned a few things

1- the green led is definitly not working. Hooked the green wire from the ecu harness to ground and only the amber and red lights came on

2- pump works no problem, hooked direct to battery and runs

Wiring and circuit board seems fine but the water level light would not go away even with the sensor disconnected!!

What else would trigger that light?

Check this short video of the gauge

http://youtu.be/jPOcxSPufNE

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Please give me the following answers:

1. Which version is the HFS3?
2. serial number.
3. What wiring diagram are you using?
4. Is this a new install
5. Is the water level sensor installed in the correct orientation? Does the lever points upwards 45 degrees when tank is full?

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Hi Richard,

1- V3
2- sn: 102169
3- view attachment
4- yes this is a new install
5- yes it is, while on the matter, the reccomended 22-23mm hole in the manual will not work and the rubber gromet will pull through, a 16-17mm hole will allow the gromet to compress properly into an oring to seal.

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Took a closer look at the circuit board, and the plastic base of the dfs jumper is partially broken. Could this cause the issue?

I have not tested the system on the road yet btw.

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

..........

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Let's deal with the tank level led.
(Let me have the results)

1. Unplug the sensor in the trunk.... is the led still on?
2. Still unplugged, now plug the blue harness from the controller.... result?

Await your reply.

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

I have tried that already while troubleshooting with jeff, no change . The water level light stayed on and the green led on the controller never came on ..

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

I just tried this Richard, I plugged in only the essentials .. Gauge, power and ecu, only with these 3 the gauge would come on ... White background is on with the yellow water level led, no other led is on, only the white background lettering ... Adding the blue plug with or without the sensor makes no change ... S led comes on with the wfs plug, ans the B with throttle ..

Have not yet tried it on the road, I stopped when I could not jump the pump manually from the box.

In the manual it says if the DFS jumper is linked this light will stay on as reminder, since the base is broken could that cause some sort of link between the poles?

What else would trigger this light so early?

Suggestions?

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

I am still on the first issue of the yellow led.

So, when you pulled the blue harness, the yellow led still on?

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Yes Richard ...

Actually no matter what harness you plug or unplug that light never goes off .. And I think if the system starts with it on it will never spray ...

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Please, please one thing at a time...

Just to recap:
Gauge ...... plugged in
Molex power ...... plugged in
ECU harness ....... plugged in


With the above, gauge back light comes on, and the yellow led also comes on.

Is this correct?

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

The plastic base on the PRK has nothing to do with the issue.

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Yes ..........

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

OK, thank you.

This cannot happen unless there are some damaged components. Can you take a hi-resolution picture of the underside of the circuit board. I like to see if there are signes of damage.

BTW, do you have a digital multimeter?

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Yes I do have a multimeter ..

Give me a minute to get the controller pics

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Great, the multimeter will help a lot.

There are 30 test points on the circuit board. All voltages. The ground (black probe) is at the bottom left of the 2nd row of test points. Let me know if you have identified this "ground" point.

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Here is the picture

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Yeah, clear in the picture ...

So black to ground and red to test point ... Which points you want me to test? All 30?

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Gauge button on always.

Read the following, ignition off:
TP4, TP5, TP7, TP8, TP10, TP11, TP15, TP16, TP17, TP18, TP20, TP23, TP30

Read the following, ignition on, pre-crank:
TP4, TP5, TP7, TP8, TP10, TP11, TP15, TP16, TP17, TP18, TP20, TP23, TP30 (same as above)

Read the following, engine running:
TP4, TP5, TP7, TP8, TP10, TP11, TP15, TP16, TP17, TP18, TP20, TP23, TP30 (same as above)

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Th One more picture of the whole board. The left side is missing.

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Ok Richard thanks for your support, will test them in the next couple days and update this thread ...

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

OK. I look forward to the readings.

Can you take a hi-res, close up picture of the plugs of both gauge cable. Long and short. Make sure they are in focus.

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Hi Richard, results are in, let me know what you think

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Original cable end

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

Extended, other end is a mirror just like the original, both behave the same ..

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

One thing stood out on the tests, the red wire of the molex is not correct, Check this wire. Should be A8 of the DME.

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

It is connected to A8, in fact it is twisted with the other red wire from the ECU harness and tapped into A8 at the same exact point

I will check and adjust that wire, which test point to check after and what should the reading be?

Re: Failsafe with HKS EVC 6
 

I went back to the car rechecked the red wire from the molex connector and it is definitly in contact with the A8 pin wire ... I even untwisted it from the other red wire from the ecu harness and gave each wire its dedicated contact space on A8's wires ......

Still, the water level light remains, but I noticed this:


When the A connector of the car's ecu is disconnected the water level light goes away, but the gauge background and S led is still working, as soon as I plug in the A connector /harness the light comes back on again ...